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Thanks very much.
I’ll try the stall test and also take it for another longer spin today. I’ll take careful note of symptoms. On shorter drives the gear changes continue to be amazingly smooth and the tacho seems to behave.
Fluid was somewhere between honey and golden syrup as it drained. In milk bottles ready for disposal it’s fairly dark like tea. It does not smell burned.
Remember also unless you followed a specific relearn process the adaption reset will take sometime to settle down as well as it needs to relearn the best settings for the clutch pack.
The ZF procedure for the BMW can be found here:
https://www.bimmerfest.com/attachmen...e-pdf.1086434/
I would suggest the procedure for software version T is probably the most comparable for the D3/D4.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9487a988f4.jpg
I also recommend rechecking fluid levels again now that it has been driven.
No re-learning process will help if he has these issues right away, myself and others here who have been thru this same process had no surging or tacho bounce post valve body rebuild.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDB
If you plan on keeping the disco for a while then a new or rebuilt torque converter is the only fix, a member recommended TCE (torque converter engineering ) for rebuilding and beefing up the TC and it was less then $600.
I would have used Penrite BMV as its much cheaper so you can afford to do a full flush instead of a drop and fill.
Don’t disagree with you loanrangie - but you should not reset adaptions on a worn gearbox unless it has a new clutch pack fitted.
Applying “as new” pressures and shift settings to a worn clutch pack can do even more damage if you don’t do the relearn process correctly.
To prevent a more expensive repair, I would still recommend following a relearn process if you do reset the adaptions. It won’t fix a TC problem but will help protect the clutch pack.
Thanks again guys. Very helpful.
So much to learn and so many traps for the newbie like me to fall into. I have reset adaptions with the iiD tool but have not followed the relearn procedure other than to creep up and down to 4th 4 times then 2 x to 5th and another 2 x to 6th. I have not driven much since and have been pretty light on the throttle anyway so hopefully not too much harm done to the clutch pack.
I'm happy to shell out for a new or rebuilt TC and would like to install it myself but it seems to be a solid 3 to 4 day exercise at my pace of working. Given the car is creeping up on 360K I'm trying to be realistic about expectations of it performing like an F1 forever and how much to spend on it. The body and interior are in such good condition it seems so wrong to give it up yet.
What you did is good. Gives it a chance to cycle through the shifts in a gentle manner and start to relearn the correct settings to use.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bananas
We actually don’t know what the correct procedure is for the LR software used, but you will note all the BMW models follow a similar pattern to start and a variation of what you did anyway.
The key point to note is it will take a bit of time to reset back to the correct values for the level of wear within the clutch pack. And it would do that anyway even if you don’t reset the adaptions so best not done unless doing major mechanical work to the gearbox internals.
At those KMs most autos these days need a rebuild anyway. So doing the TC next is the next cheapest option (before committing to a full GB rebuild).
Thank you for the reassurance.
I work in Botany, NSW so these guys have been recommended since they are close: FAQ — Auto Trans Australia
I’ve asked for recommendations and pricing and will see what they come back with. With the gearbox out anyway it could be false economy not to have it rebuilt too I guess.
But if the lock up clutch in the TC is worn, it will slip if loaded up. Agreed the transmission clutch pack per gear will lock, but the TC 'may' also slip above its lock up speed (1200rpm iirc). When I rebuilt mine, I reset all adaptations in the transmission. New fluid, filter, solenoids, sep plate, zip kit and valve body seals, all made a difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by discorevy
Perhaps try getting to highway speeds, setting cruise control and watching the tacho. If all is correct there should be no flutter of rpm as all will be locked in 6th gear.
Great visual sequence. I believe the Sonnax ZIP kit also comes with resetting adaptations sequence for thr ZFhp26 and 28 transmissions.Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoDB
The Torque converter lock up clutch won't ever activate without the vehicle moving, and I wasn't referring to the transmission clutch packs, so I'm unsure what it was that you "agreed" with.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric SDV6SE
Just to be clear, the stall speed is different to lock up speed and occurs when the impeller in the torque converter has reached fluid lock up (I can't remember the figure for 6hp26/28, but a lot higher than 1200rpm) in that it can't rev any higher without the turbine side turning.
When you say "When I rebuilt mine", I'm guessing you were talking about the valve body and not the transmission or torque converter.
If you want to get your head around it, I'm sure there's a heap of info on the web.
To Bananas, the easiest test to be sure it's the torque converter at fault ( whether through lack of pressure on that circuit or the usual slipping T.C. clutch ) is to apply light throttle and try to maintain around 70 kph on a slight incline.