~Rich's~ D4 build

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Originally Posted by ~Rich~

I found the standard high beam is pretty poor in the D4 compared with my last vehicle.
Didn't want to fork out heaps for Driving Light brackets as well as the lights themselves.
Searched Stedi and found these replacements for the Fog lights which I never use.
STEDI™ Boost Integrated LED Driving Lights For Type-A Fogs

I've fitted them yesterday and found that there are 2 wires for the DRL part of the light.
One connects up to turn on the DRL and the other connects to the indicator so it turns off when the indicator is on.
I didn't like this feature as it flashes alternatively with the blinker so I disconnected that wire to just keep on with the DRLs.

I know that they won't be as good as larger spotties but I'm sure they will be better than the standard High beam.

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They should punch out in front of the high beam as the spec's look similar to the Great White spotties that I have on my D3 in the same position, they don't seem to make them anymore but IIRC mine were 1 lux at 333m vs your 1 lux at 327m.

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Originally Posted by RANDLOVER

They should punch out in front of the high beam as the spec's look similar to the Great White spotties that I have on my D3 in the same position, they don't seem to make them anymore but IIRC mine were 1 lux at 333m vs your 1 lux at 327m.

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Recommended Lux levels for safe driving are ~20-30 lux... 1 lux is enough to barely read a newspaper (its less than moonlight on a clear night)

When choosing driving lights it pays to consider what level of lighting is needed to see beyond the reaction / braking distances.
Given it takes 3.27 seconds to cross 100 mtrs @ 110km/h and that is the cut off point for 27.5 lux on these units you'd be easily out-driving them on the highway.

Good at slower speeds for sure!

In comparison, 1 lux is about a good push bike light

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Originally Posted by John_D4

In comparison, 1 lux is about a good push bike light

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Not on my bikes and the speed I went at. I was running a 1700 lumen light to light up the trails on the mountain bike at night.

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Recommended Lux levels for safe driving are ~20-30 lux... 1 lux is enough to barely read a newspaper (its less than moonlight on a clear night)

When choosing driving lights it pays to consider what level of lighting is needed to see beyond the reaction / braking distances.
Given it takes 3.27 seconds to cross 100 mtrs @ 110km/h and that is the cut off point for 27.5 lux on these units you'd be easily out-driving them on the highway.

Good at slower speeds for sure!

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Mine are for lower speeds mainly as I live in the burbs and when I return home from a drive in the bush in the evenings, there are still lots of cars around and I can hardly use the high beam never mind the spotties. Just this weekend I had some panicky person in a hatch back flashing their brights just because they could see my spots over the hills and must be deathly afraid of being blinded were I to crest with them still on!

Yes, for a long time I've wondered how far I can see a kangaroo at night, but it is such a drama to find out, 1st catching a kangaroo, then tying it to a suitable tree or fence post, then pacing out the light beam length, then releasing the roo, (it is not going to be happy), then running away from the roo.[biggrin]

Conversely, I have a theory that the roos, cows, etc see me coming a lot sooner now with the spotties and move out the way as I've had a lot fewer sightings since getting the spotties, the last being as I crested a hill, when two roos were in the road but looking the wrong way.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RANDLOVER

Mine are for lower speeds mainly as I live in the burbs and when I return home from a drive in the bush in the evenings, there are still lots of cars around and I can hardly use the high beam never mind the spotties. Just this weekend I had some panicky person in a hatch back flashing their brights just because they could see my spots over the hills and must be deathly afraid of being blinded were I to crest with them still on!

Yes, for a long time I've wondered how far I can see a kangaroo at night, but it is such a drama to find out, 1st catching a kangaroo, then tying it to a suitable tree or fence post, then pacing out the light beam length, then releasing the roo, (it is not going to be happy), then running away from the roo.[biggrin]

Conversely, I have a theory that the roos, cows, etc see me coming a lot sooner now with the spotties and move out the way as I've had a lot fewer sightings since getting the spotties, the last being as I crested a hill, when two roos were in the road but looking the wrong way.

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The other way of looking at it is:

The said kangaroo can’t hear your motor but sees your spotlights and thinks ‘oh wow the sun is coming up early today, I might hang around on the side of the road and eat grass for a bit longer’!

Then there are the ones that hide in the bushes then jump out because you're getting too close and that the well-lit path across is clear.

A wild goat decided to race out of the scrub to beat me to get across the road, but then realising that it wasn't going to make it, skidded on all 4 legs as it emergency braked whilst turning alongisde. It would be good if roos did the same.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RANDLOVER

Mine are for lower speeds mainly as I live in the burbs and when I return home from a drive in the bush in the evenings, there are still lots of cars around and I can hardly use the high beam never mind the spotties. Just this weekend I had some panicky person in a hatch back flashing their brights just because they could see my spots over the hills and must be deathly afraid of being blinded were I to crest with them still on!

Yes, for a long time I've wondered how far I can see a kangaroo at night, but it is such a drama to find out, 1st catching a kangaroo, then tying it to a suitable tree or fence post, then pacing out the light beam length, then releasing the roo, (it is not going to be happy), then running away from the roo.[biggrin]

Conversely, I have a theory that the roos, cows, etc see me coming a lot sooner now with the spotties and move out the way as I've had a lot fewer sightings since getting the spotties, the last being as I crested a hill, when two roos were in the road but looking the wrong way.

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Haha

Can make it easy for you - come over this way for a visit. Drive at Dusk onwards...

Pretty confident a test subject or two will present for you. [bigwhistle]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ~Rich~

I found the standard high beam is pretty poor in the D4 compared with my last vehicle.
Didn't want to fork out heaps for Driving Light brackets as well as the lights themselves.
Searched Stedi and found these replacements for the Fog lights which I never use.
STEDI™ Boost Integrated LED Driving Lights For Type-A Fogs

I've fitted them yesterday and found that there are 2 wires for the DRL part of the light.
One connects up to turn on the DRL and the other connects to the indicator so it turns off when the indicator is on.
I didn't like this feature as it flashes alternatively with the blinker so I disconnected that wire to just keep on with the DRLs.

I know that they won't be as good as larger spotties but I'm sure they will be better than the standard High beam.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b988005e_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...de13267d_b.jpg

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So after my trip I can say that while they do improve the standard highbeam they are not a alternative to proper driving lights.
Tombie my son hit of all the animals a goat! During the day at 2pm under blue skys. Goats are normally smarter than that. Ripped off 1/3 of the bumper but at least the 4wd was still drivable.

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Originally Posted by John_D4

In comparison, 1 lux is about a good push bike light

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My StVZo compliant bike lights are between 70 and 100 lux.