HyChill in 2.7 or 3.0

The system is now charged with 600g of R134a and 30ml of oil added but the compressor is not producing any pressure. Yesterday afternoon I had a last try with the Hychil with the same result, so it appears that the new valve has gone the way of the original and that the R134a shouldn't have been installed. Furthermore we couldn't hear the=is valve clicking when 12V was applied while the engine wasn't running (the original was easily heard), yet a small spark was produced when touching the power wire on and off and the coil still has its original 12 ohms resistance. Hence the valve's internals are considered stuck. I'll have a few more attempts to get it to work then get the person back to recover the R134a so that the valve can again be replaced.

The original filter/dryer indeed had a very blocked gauze with small speckles indicating that the original compressor was failing, but not surprising after 300K kms. There was a slight trace of similar grey material on the inlet gauze on the original valve.

The system held good vacuum prior to installing the R134a.

It was suggested that a genuine Sanden valve be fitted next time, but from LR is nearly $300 compared to $155 for the Jayair from a local a/c parts outlet. However is the Jayair version likely to be any better than a $30 + $10 frt one from AliEpress, noting that the AliExpress one has R134a on its label?

I'm inclined to buy the ALiExpress one then remove the compressor when the valve arrives, even though the current one's failure could be covered by warranty.

This has turned into quite a nightmare, as I say from my privileged perch.

Can you just simply send back the entire compressor as faulty and get it replaced under warranty? Might be a tall ask, and I’m sure you’ve considered it.

No, I can't send it back at least because HyChill rather than the stipulated R134a was used.
I'm hoping that the seals in the valves can't tolerate Hychill and is the reason why the compressor has R134a on its label. Seeing the Aliepress valve also with R134a on ite label got me thinking about how brake fluid swells normal seals which is what I now suspect has hppened to both valves rather than clogged with debris.

I managed to get the system cooling partially 3 times with R134a so I'll keep trying until the 3rd valve gets close and not have the R134 recoveed in case the seals come good.

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Originally Posted by Graeme

No, I can't send it back at least because HyChill rather than the stipulated R134a was used.
I'm hoping that the seals in the valves can't tolerate Hychill and is the reason why the compressor has R134a on its label. Seeing the Aliepress valve also with R134a on ite label got me thinking about how brake fluid swells normal seals which is what I now suspect has hppened to both valves rather than clogged with debris.

I managed to get the system cooling partially 3 times with R134a so I'll keep trying until the 3rd valve gets close and not have the R134 recoveed in case the seals come good.

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It is usually some oils that swell the seals,not the refrigerant.
Although these days,and for decades,all seals have been fine for all oils used in Refr/AC,uncluding Auto air.

Good luck with it,it sure has been a headache[bigsad]

Can a compressor be damaged by very high low-side pressure? A blurry picture of the gauges when the dryer was blocked shows the low side pressure needle more than 3/4 the way round the dial.

I recall seeing a picture or drawing of reed valves inside a compressor and wondered if they are susceptible to damage or if anything else can be damaged such that the compressor can only occasionally be made to work? However such damage wouldn't seem to explain why a new valve works whilst the engine is idling but not when revs are increased.

The a/c mechanic said today that he would replace the complete compressor rather than just replace the valve, but there's a big difference in cost and his work is almost entirely with fixed capacity compressors as fitted to heavy equipment.

Edit: It's time for a new compressor.

Fingers are crossed for a good result with another new compressor which has been penciled-in for R134 Monday a/n.

When turning the latest compressor by hand prior to it being installed so the plugs were still fitted, minor pulsing / compression could be felt, but none from the removed compressor with the plugs having been transferred after the new compressor was installed. I had turned both compressors by the front of the pulley but tried the old one again this time with the clutch engaged to be able to turn the pulley more quickly, but still zero compression. Is it normal to be able to feel compression when turning by hand?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Graeme

Is it normal to be able to feel compression when turning by hand?

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Yes,with any belt drive or coupling style compressor,compression should be felt when turning by hand.

But i dont know how the valve operates,could it be stuck in the unloaded position,then you may not feel compression?

The reason your suction guage was reading a high pressure is because the compressor is not pumping,ie,broken internally,or maybe unloaded?
That is as long as the clutch was engaged properly.

Anyway,good luck with the new one,hopefully it is all now sorted.[smilebigeye]

The pistons have nil stroke when the valve isn't energised, but perhaps assembly-time oil in the control section was providing a little and me looking for something positive.