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This is a well know design floor with the standard issue bottle jack in 70 series Toyotas - the jack was too tall to fit under the vehicle when you had a flat!
I worked on mine sites with these vehicles and when I first started I noticed this block of wood carried in all vehicles. I asked what it was for and was simply told you'll need it if you get a flat. Before long I got a flat and when you're out in the middle of no where it didn't take long to work out the issue and the solution.
This is a well know design flaw with the standard issue bottle jack in 70 series Toyotas - the jack was too tall to fit under the vehicle when you had a flat!
Picked it in one! (Although I always carried a bottle jack as well as the screw one provided.)
Mal
just come across a catalogue from Darwin Bolt Supplies and there are a few Kincrome bottle jacks that may do the job.
Part No - Capacity (kg) - closed height(mm) [to] open height(mm), weight (kg)
K12052 - 6000 - 200 to 395, 5.2
K12053 - 8000 - 200 to 400, 6.0
K12054 - 10000 - 205 to 400, 6.1kg
K12055 - 12000 - 219 to 414, 7.2kg
the K12053 is $80 and the K12054 is $90.
I was thinking the K12053, 8t, 200 to 400mm would be ok. should i buy this and give it a go?
Sounds like it would go mighty close to fitting under the chassis rail with a flat (around 200 mm by my measurements, without driving onto a block) and the 200 mm lift may be enough to do the job - but just check before you buy check that this lift is all hydraulic, ie that it doesn't include the threaded 'extension' that so many jacks have these days.Quote:
Originally Posted by schmoogene
And if you do buy it, and have need to use it in anger - let us know how you go!
No, no, if you buy it, try it and tell us the news, good or bad!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse B
I have about three wheel removal techniques depending upon the situation. All three however require that I chock two of the other wheels.
The chock procedure is a good idea as when I go to remove the chocks, I find that either the chock on the front side of the tyre or the rear side is now kind of jamed in and has to be kicked out. This is usually true of both pair so the 3 does try to roll.
Assuming a hard dry surface and a front tyre to be removed, with the 6 ton bottle jack under the frame and the suspension at regular height, I will jack up on the frame a couple of inches just to take the weight off the wheel - and yes, the bottle jack base will start to rotate. Per a previous post suggestion, I will start to push the jack base inwards in the future.)
With the one ton baby bottle jack, I then set it into a dimple that is on the underside of the lower wheel A frame and jack it such that the tyre rubber is about an inch off the surface. (Only about an inch of jacking is required). I then remove the wheel etc. I also carry a wood block that I will sometimes put under the 6 ton jack depending upon ground conditions.
This bottle jack technique does not work very well for the rear however. I do it if I have to, but there is not really a dimple in the "correct" place, so I am never happy when refitting a rear wheel. As such, I am in the process of purchasing an exhaust air bag jack as that is I think about the only safe field jack for the rear tyres that there is.
At home, I have a 3 ton trolley jack and adapter that fits into the hole in the frame so that makes lifting the frame easy and safe. I still use the bottle jack under the wheel suspension A frame however, and independently lift the wheel as I like to have the tyre as close to the ground as possible so I do not have to lift the replacement very much - say an inch. I note that with the trolley jack, that the little wheels rotate and the trolley moves a bit as jacking height increases. That is why I use the two pair of wheel chocks all the time.
The D3 scissor jack is useless but it does have two fold away chocks with it which I always use.