I had this problem 40,000km ago. LR reset the geometry under warranty. Make sure they put the car into the geomtery setting mode first or it's a waste of time. Also make sure it's done with a full tank.
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I had this problem 40,000km ago. LR reset the geometry under warranty. Make sure they put the car into the geomtery setting mode first or it's a waste of time. Also make sure it's done with a full tank.
Jamo
Only you need to fill your tanks and fit the spare tyres. Doesn't make a lot of difference for the rest of us.
Hi all
Interesting thread, as mentioned I have only owned a D3 for a few weeks and driven only 3000Km, so it alarming when I took into our workshop and I see scuffing on the outer edges. Unfortunately the reason for the scuffing was the source of a good ribbing from the boys (who like to drop the slipper into the boss when they can :bat:) - tyre inflation, all tyres were around 32 PSI which for road driving in well under inflated for a 2.7T vehicle.
Inflation pressure should be at least 36-40PSI, (I wouldn't go much higher because body roll and ride might become problematic).
To also improve tyre wear its imperative that the wheels are rotated and balanced every at least 5000Km, tyre pressure checked every 2-3weeks and a wheel alignment carried out at least every 6 mths or so. I would also adjust the tyre pressure every other check (i.e. 36 for several weeks, then 40 for several weeks) this also helps even tyre wear.
A long term commercial customer of ours used to only get 30Km out of a set of tyres (lower quality mind you but it did mean 3 sets of tyres a year :eek:) last year he finally listened to us and followed the routine of every 3 weeks at the bowser check tyre inflation (with his own inflation gauge!), brought it back regularly for rotation and balance and had an alignment every 6 months min (note this was checked every 5K anyway whilst having the rotation). result just under 100K km out of the last set of tyres.
City driving is also a big contributor in outer wear to a tyre as well as towing heavy loads and it should be noted that if you are towing constantly the wheel alignment needs to be set to compensate for the extra load on the rear of the vehicle.
Cheers
Paul
Actually DT, the TSB states that the tank must be full.Quote:
Originally Posted by Desert Traveller
It also requires the battery to be put on charge - something they didn't do in my case and flattened it! Which is why I put in the bit about the fuel. if you don't do it yourself, it probably won't happen.
I had the wear problem with the original tyres (Wranglers) but not as bad as some people have, I replaced the Wranglers with BFG AT's at 28000Kms and bought another as a spare tyre for my CSR trip at around 40000Kms and had a realingment done by the local Bridgestone dealer who said the alignment was quite a way out.
I have now done 130000 Kms still on the same 6 tyres and should get about another 20000.
Hi Paul,Quote:
Originally Posted by paulos00
I agree that scuffing on the outer edge of the (front) tyres is probably due to under inflation.
With regard to the correct inflation pressures I have no comment, as it is dependent on the situation.
With regard to the alignment of the rear wheels if towing "constantly", I think that there is a difference here between coil-sprung & air bag-suspended vehicles. I believe that, with air bag suspension, the SLS will return the vehicle to the appropriate height (& therefore the wheels will be at the correct alignment). With coil sprung vehicles, operating without load-levelling hitches, the rear of the vehicle may sit low, therby affecting the alignment. In either case, with heavy loads, the tyre pressures should be increased.
Best Wishes,
My 05 TDV6 wiped out a set of tires out in 25K even with the correct inflation and asking the dealer to rotate the wheels at the services. I then discovered that the dealer , Brisbane north side, could not do alignments in house and had to send out for the job to be done. So it wasn't routine and wasn't happening. I eventually got the revised factory settings and had the alignment when I replaced my first set of Goodyears. The second set are going to last more than 60k. Same car same daily route.
I'm surprised that the dealers hav not said anything about changing tire brands. When I wanted to put Coopers on they said any change from the type spec's would jeoparise my 3yr 100k drive train warranty. I confirmed that with LR Australia. At the time there was a shortage of Goodyears and had to wait 2 weeks and got to the stage of having bare wire exposed in the tread.
Hi Cammac
I spoke with LR today regarding putting Coopers on the D3 instead of the GY's, LR's position is that the Cooper size 265 60/18 in the HT+ or XST are both fine (as the rolling diameter is within tolerances of 255 60/18) but you MUST have this tyre across all 4 wheels. This size / tyre would not jeopardise drive train warranty. The local dealer here also puts this tyre on the D3 if requested and stated that it would not jeopardise the warranty.
Cheers
Paul
Likewise, I got 118,000 kms out of Michelins on my TDi. When I sold my TD5 at 75,000 kms, its Michelins had lots of kms left in them.
The D3 TDV6 that I bought used with 58,000 kms on the clock was already on its second set of tyres. (Continentals).
I would suggest that part of the problem is the Goodyears that are fitted to D3s. Even on my family sedans, the standard Goodyears have only ever lasted 32,000 kms. I always replace them with better rubber.
Why do the D3s not come with Michelins as standard?
Pete,
Michelin doesn't make a suitable 18" tyre for the D3. In Europe I believe Michelin has a 100% road tyre in 255/60R18.
Long tyre mileage, does not make a good tyre. I use softer compound tyres for better grip and off road ability.