Who's seen this before...

Snowbound,

While all the messages have come up, it is still drivable. Doesn't even drop into limp mode with restricted throttle. Just a bit harsh suspension wise.

Anyway, if the battery fails the wife and kiddies can always get out and push. Just not sure if they can get it up to speed to be able to bump start an auto....he he he. Hope she isn't looking over my shoulder.:D:D:D:eek:

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Originally Posted by snowbound

My memory may be playing tricks, but I honestly can't recall ever having this problem with my old series 2A! All this electronic wizardry is fantastic, until it goes bung. Supose you go bush now and get a battery problem, how good would a starting handle be! Have we gone too sophisticated?:mellow:

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No, series Landies snap axles instead and become just as immobile once you have run out of spare axles...........
I reckon the risks of becoming stranded due to vehicle failure are about the same. Relying on one vehicle on an expedition is just as risky be it a D3 or a series one.

Regards,
Tote

Does it start at normal height then drop after the errors come up? If so before it drops, turn off and pull the 20 amp fuse for the compressor in the under bonnet fuse box. The system will tell it to drop due to the error messages but will not be able to. It will maintain height no problem unless you have an air leak of course.
Hope you get it fixed before the planned XMAS trip.
Agree totally with Tote as have had series II seiies III Disco 1, disco2A and now the D3. On a recent Birdsville trip via Innaminka and Walkers Crossing etc we had 3 TDV6s, blown coolant hose, puncture, mine knocked wheel alignment right out causing it to drop and turn off special programs after 2 kms but all fixable with spares, mine using the remove the fuse fix went fine like that for the rest of the trip and gave us nothing but confidence given normal good trip planning, practical spares and of course in convoy and some prctical vehical/mechanical/electrical knowledge
Cheers
Rob

Hi Forumites,
Happend to me after an under bonnet wash found the tranny case module had water sitting in the multi pin connectors. Can also happen apprently when the multi pin plugs get corrosion happening in and around the pins. I replaced the tranny case module and sealed all the sides with silicon leaving approx 25 mm on the bottom seam to allow the unit to "breathe". I put electrical silicon grease around all the multi pin connectors as weel, plus I'm going to be a lot more carefull when washing under the bonnet.

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Originally Posted by Brick

Started getting the HDC fault message again this week.:o:o Contacted dealer and was told battery may be problem. Checked with multimeter and battery is at 12.8v when switched off, and was charging at 13.8v when idling.

Now getting the following messages:
- HDC fault
- suspension fault
- parking brake fault
- special program switched off

About 4 yellow warning lights remain on once started including ABS light. Parking brake releases okay and is drivable, however cannot raise from access height even when driving.

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I got similar problems when my steering wheel alignment got out of whack.

When I was steering straight ahead the wheel was a few degrees to the right and I think this upset the steering wheel angle sensor.

LR did a realignment and it hasn't happened again.

When the errors occurred I would slow down, shift into neutral, switch the engine off and back on again and then shift back into drive. The car would then rise back up to normal height and I could continue on.

Obviously you need to pick a sensible place to do this (on a highway might not be a good one :o)

Wheel alignment is very important.

All stability control systems have steering wheel sensors. If the steering wheel is not straight yet the car is travelling straight that will confuse the hell out of the system and it will throw a hissy fit before shutting down. Hence wheel alignment is important for all cars with stability control such as the D3/D4.

Switching DSC off will help, but the 'off' switch is not actually off in Land Rovers (unlike in some high-performance sports cars), it's just de-sensitised.

Thanks for all of the tips on how to overcome. Had already tried a hard reset to no avail. Rob4play, was stuck in access mode, could not get back to normal height.

We were able to get it into the delaer today and they were able to check it out. Apparently the pressure switch on the compressor has failed. also causes all these other erros to show, although for the life of me not sure why. Seems odd that the wiring for something like a pressure switch would also be linked to these other sensors, etc.

Anyway, waiting on replacement part to arrive. hope to be back on the road by Wed. Glad I didn't offer any monies on the dealer. Am surprised they could fit in with the usual Christmas rush.

Have a good Christmas and New Year everyone. Rubber side down please.

Just thought I would post an update.

Got the vehicle back from the dealer a couple of days ago. Was a combination of a couple of problems. Pressure sensor (not switch as posted earlier) failed, as well as an ABS sensor.

However the biggest problem was that the loom that runs down the left hand side frame rail (you can see in left front wheel well) had come out of the bracket (cheap plastic that is not strong enough) and with wider than standard tyres had worn through both the conduit and the sheath of a few of the wires. Only came into contact with the tyre when on full lock and only because had come away from the bracket an was able to swing around.

Dealer repaired under warranty and all good now. Just need to keep an eye on the loom in this location to ensure does not come away from the bracket again. The dealer actually put some zip ties on to ensure more secure.

Cheers,

What size tyres are you running?

RMP,

I am running the Cooper LTZ 285/60/18. Does not normally rub anywhere, even when on access level and full lock.

Cheers,