05/06 RRS buying advice requested please .

How do you come to that conclusion.

The cost of maintenance of a RRS is the same as a D3. Likewise with the same driving pattern with a vehicle of the same age etc - not much different to comparable other makes such as a 200 series Cruiser, Patrol etc.

I have had my RRS for 2 1/2 years and 40,000km - my costs have been $1200 tyres (were low when I bought the car), EGRs $400, Brake pads $300 (with fluid), 3x services $1000.

Coming up I expect gearbox steel pan $300, 20 litres of gearbox oil $550. Tyres show no wear at 10,000km so will most likely get 60,000 - 80,000km so not really a cost issue yet. I need to change diff and transfer case oil also - cost will be no more than a couple of hundred.

You soon learn where to get work done and where to buy parts - thankfully I can do the basics.

So if you are having doubts about the servicing costs of a RRS then most other modern 4wds would also have to go off the shopping list.

Garry

Hi Garry
Thanks for the reply.
Thats the sort of info i'm seeking.
I have come across horror stories but generally are because of poor servicing.
If the RRS is no more expensive than a 100 or 200 series or a patrol then i'm in.

I have had the BMW X5 recommended but i gets the same write ups as the RRS.

So overall i would much rather an RRS !

Starting to think of a 4.4V8 and LPG !

Cheers

Andy

Before you rush off in that direction have you worked out how much it will cost to have a LPG kit installed and then worked out how many umpteen tens of thousands of kilometres you will have to drive to break even?

Work it out first you might get a shock how long it takes to get even close to breaking even. Plus how easy is it to get LPG in rural WA, that could be a possible concern if your planning to spend time in the country.

Unless your doing a lot of heavy towing I wouldn't worry to much about how hungry the V8's are on fuel, providing your not a lead foot, and if you are doing lots of towing then a diesel is probably a better option anyway.

Good luck with your decision.

I went through the same decision process as you probably are now, and tested all the European SUVs and ended up in an 08 RRS. The X5 is fantastic on the road and the 3.0 diesel is a very punchy engine... would destroy most CARS on the road let alone 4wds and if you can find a manual, the fuel economy is unbelievable! That said, it is not a 4wd in any real sense - it has ride height of the RRS in 'road' mode, but:
-hopeless suspension articulation
-no low range
-no underbody protection
-no air suspension to raise above road mode

The RRS being basically a D3 has all of that and is still a great drive on the road.

You need to think about what driving you're going to be doing.
-Big road trips and medium towing with LIGHT offroading, get the X5, it's a great car.
-Any kind of offroading other than dirt roads, get the RRS. You won't be sorry you did. Nothing like rolling up to a camp site in a national park and saying 'let's see where that track goes' and not worrying about whether your car will make it or not. Also if you're a music junkie (I am), the RRS Harman/kardon stereo is genuinely light years ahead of the X5's.

I was apprehensive of the horror stories as well. When you consider over 15K members on disco3.com and an engine failure maybe once every couple of months out of that bunch, at least half of which can be put down to maintenance issues, you have to rule out engine failure as a common problem on well looked after vehicles. Trans failure is more common and the torque converter seems to be the first thing that fails. Think of that as a clutch wearing out on a manual (it does actually have a wet clutch and that is what wears out) - it happens to all cars and when you have a 2.8 tonne car with a torquey engine in front of it, it's not hard to see why.

Hi Cobra8272,

As far as engine selection from a repairer point of view since RRS was released in 05 till now we have replaced more TDV6 engines than TDV8,
4.2 SC and 4.4 NA under warranty at low km and retail at high km.

If it is fuel economy your chasing I would be choosing the TDV8,

Now the most common faults I get on RRS and things to look out for would be

* Front lower control arm bushes ball joints wear.
* EAS pump weak update available.
* Rear Diff whine at speeds
* transmission shudder usually on vehicle 130k an up
* Water entry issues through sunroof

The guys are spot on in suggesting a full service history/warranty check
and one at those high KM WITHOUT a towbar.

My appologies about the long post if you do test drive one and not sure
of anything happy to reply.

Regards
Wael

Hi Weal,
What failures are you seeing mainly on the TDV6 engines and what is the failure rate you are seeing?

TIA

Hi Rich84,

The most common TDV6 failure and not due to neglect is
the engine valve rocker needle rollers falling apart and going
right through the engine in those cases we traced the cause to
oil pump operation issue.

Always listen for this issue starting out usually on initial start up the
engine will be a little noisy for few seconds more than smooth out to
normal. like you have just changed the oil and filter every time you start

and the other obviously from neglect and stretching the service interval
bottom end bearing failure.

Regards
Wael

Thanks Wael, that's interesting - I've spent a long time lurking on disco3 and I don't think I ever saw that specific failure except on a very high mileage vehicle (think it had 450K miles!)

I note that after I change the oil and filter on my TDV6 I get the ticking and slight increase in engine noise for about 3-4 seconds. That's accompanied by the oil light. Then it smooths out and is fine.

Normally on a cold start I'll get the same situation for up to 1.5 seconds. Noise stops the instant the oil light goes out.

Does that sound normal enough?

Have you seen any failures relating to the oil pump casing breaking off where the timing belt tension is mounted to it? Seems to be a few failures of this type over in the UK and I've heard of a couple here too.

No worries at all.. you really should have no sound what so ever on cold start
I notice as the engine oil comes close to that interval change they do
rattle on cold start a little.

Haven't had any casing break at all just low pressure feed.
WOW! definetly would like a link to this issue..

I recommend a cold start test with old oil time the sound.
carry out oil change using correct grade and then compare
cold start again we recommend Mobil 1 ESP 5W30.

Let me know how you go

Cheers
Wael

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eurohaus Prestige

......Haven't had any casing break at all just low pressure feed.
WOW! definetly would like a link to this issue..

---

Just here DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Cam belt tensioner mount broke!!!!......

There's also a poll on the same site trying to establish what MY was the most prone to the failure too.