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Thread: Something suspicious in the starting department........

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    My thinking was if I needed to replace one or both then I could just about justify it if they worked well, but struggling to if everything existing works. Much like you, I suspect from your response. I did note that they had e-mark cert and that's a rare thing so that made them worth looking at further. Supplementary reverse lighting isn't hard to do if the rest works well. Thanks for the feedback Marty
    DiscoClax
    '94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
    '08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID

  2. #12
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    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by DiscoClax View Post
    From what you are describing it does seem most likely that the battery has carked it but is holding enough surface charge to work OK if not loaded heavily. The extra 15+ amps being puled by the lights is knocking it down to the point it doesn't want to crank properly. Which means you are on borrowed time - carry jumper leads and/or a booster.

    A mate of mine put me on to this gadget recently - 12V Car Battery Monitor via bluetooth 4.0 Voltage Meter Tester w/ auto Alarm | eBay Being the boffin I am I just had to get it...

    Amongst other party tricks it shows you the battery voltage across the terminals in real time, wirelessly to your phone. And can do a charging test at the tap of a button. During cranking it measures and records the voltage every 10ms (a hundred times a second). Refer attached pic for a result I got a few days ago on the very tired battery in my well-worn V70 showing that the battery is pulling down to much less than it should during a cranking event. This was after standing for only three days and being fully charged with an AC-DC smart charger at that time. It's also showing that my alternator is barely pushing 13.8V into the battery and that degrades to 13.5V after an hour's running as the alternator gets hot and loses performance. That is not enough to properly charge a battery, part of the reason it's dying... The car has done nearly 400k kms so it's allowed to have a couple of minor issues. All I've done is replace the brushes, and that improved things, but not enough.

    Attachment 133554

    Attachment 133553

    Attachment 133555

    Best of luck. Hopefully they'll stump up a new battery to replace the current one under warranty.

    P.S. How are you finding the Glohh conversion? Latest GL3 (dynamic) type? How good are the reverse lights and how visible are the lights generally compared with standard? Money well-spent, or bit of a luxury easily avoided? :P

    Hi folks, I now carry the BM2 battery monitors and here is a link to my VERANDAH thread.

    BM2 Bluetooth Battery Voltage Monitors

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