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Thread: 3.6 TDV8 bad overheating on hills towing caravan

  1. #1
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    3.6 TDV8 bad overheating on hills towing caravan

    My brother's MY08 3.6 has badly overheated when towing his 2-2.5T Jayco uphill for the 4-5 years he has owned the car. The temperature gauge needle cannot be made to move off normal without the van attached but any decent hill even on cool days causes overheating, to the point of boiling it on a 23 deg day a week ago. It does not overheat on level ground. It does not use any of coolant.

    Temperature probes have been fitted to the top and bottom radiator hose connections. An IIDtool is used to monitor coolant temp, fan speed and duty cycle for some time now, with the fan seeming to behave as it should. Just prior to the first stage power restriction where max revs is 3000, the top radiator temp was 113 and the bottom 103 and the IIDTool showed ECT 113. 2nd stage restriction limits revs to 2000 rpm. It boiled close to 120 as there was nowhere to stop part-way up the hill. Overheating very quickly escalates from mildly warm to excessively hot in a very short time.

    The thermostat was removed after the boiling but while the engine ran too cold, it still overheated uphill with the van. The thermostat bypass valve was found to be split and otherwise damaged preventing it from closing so a new thermostat housing was fitted 2 days ago but overheating persists.

    There appears to not be any mud or debris between the i/c and coolant radiators, as water squirted backwards emerges clean from the i/c and from below the radiator pack.

    The water pump is next to be removed to be checked and a new one fitted regardless of apparent condition. next will be the radiator pack which requires the a/c system to be drained.

    Are these vehicles prone to overheating when towing? I can't find any reference to overheating where coolant is not being lost.

    Any suggestions?
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  2. #2
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    I suppose both the rad and pump are now 8 years old,, not at the age where you could just point the finger, but,,, maybe the two parts combined are not up to scratch?
    if the car is staying in the family probably worth the ( both) replacement cost.


    Like you I have not read of there being an overheating issue, in fact this may be the first one!
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

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  3. #3
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    Unless the impellor has detached from the shaft, I doubt the pump will be the cause but it's easy enough to replace and has now done 200K anyway. With older generation vehicles a blocked radiator would be suspected especially if cross-flow as in my RRC but this alloy, top to bottom flow radiator without scale problems of cast iron blocks and copper radiators should not suffer the same problems. The vehicle only had 60K when bought yet has always overheated with the van.

    I've suggested a run up a local big hill using Sport mode without any manual gear selection to see how gear selection and engine revs compare with how he normally drives in case he's overloading the engine by not allowing it to rev high enough.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  4. #4
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    its beginning to sound like a design issue, not a worn parts one.
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    I suppose both the rad and pump are now 8 years old,, not at the age where you could just point the finger, but,,, maybe the two parts combined are not up to scratch?
    if the car is staying in the family probably worth the ( both) replacement cost.


    Like you I have not read of there being an overheating issue, in fact this may be the first one!
    10 years old now.
    Has the water pump ever been replaced?
    Mine was done after 9 years.
    Not that it ever overheated.
    I just had the thermostat housing replaced and a lot of hoses recently.
    I don’t have any solutions but will throw out some general questions.
    Is it missing any of the plastic cowls. Not sure how critical they are to air flow.
    Eg under the motor.
    Has it had any other issues that might relate back to it?
    Does he have any type of spotlights or aftermarket bullbar?(although I don’t think there are any available).

  6. #6
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    Note my added comment about gear selection. My 4.4 TDV8 needs 1st gear to climb a particularly steep pinch near Talbingo with my 2.5T van at about 40 kph around hair-pins but my L322 is excessively highly geared and made worse by nearly 32" tyres instead of the original 30".
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  7. #7
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    Water pump is expected to be the original but as the overheating existed when purchased with 60K kms, unless the water pump has always been faulty then its not likely to be the cause but will be replaced anyway.

    A short light bar had been fitted but has since been removed. No bull-bar is fitted.

    No other issues.

    It is possible that the original owner had the ecm remapped but no soot accumulates on the van and fuel consumption is better than a friend's diesel Paj pulling about the same weight van, suggesting that the ecm is original.

    A flap in front of the radiator that might move at speed has been cable-tied away to ensure that it can't restrict airflow.

    I've suggested removing the gearbox under-tray in case it is restricting airflow from the engine bay.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  8. #8
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    It amazes me how hot they get under the bonnet when they arent overheating.
    Must be crazy hot when they overheat.

  9. #9
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    Could the fan belt be slipping?. I suppose you would hear that.

  10. #10
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    3.6 TDV8 bad overheating on hills towing caravan

    I’m assuming the transmission would get very hot when towing that weight.
    Not sure how they cool the transmission?
    If it’s just an normal oil cooler.
    Could the transmission heat be transferring a lot back into the motor/engine bay as well?

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