photo is a Range Rover Sport ? (aka Disco3/4)
range rover sport 2006 tdv6 2.7ltr.jpg
hi guys
i am not mechanically minded at all and need a bit of help determining an issue . right i was driving along then got a grating noise/scraping noise from front of car (possibly just below passenger seat maybe a bit more forward ) and lost power to the wheels , it then stopped gave me power back and as i wasn't far from home headed that way but before i got there it happened again only this time instead of going away it gave a great clunk from around the same spot and didn't want to play anymore . now the motor goes A ok it changes gears A ok but wont actually give me any power to the wheels , would i be right in saying that the front shaft has done its bearings (not even sure if it has bearings) or should i think along other lines . just looking for opinions before i ask a mate to help me start pulling her to pieces unnecessarily . and if it is a problem with shaft will removing it allow the vehicle to operate as a 2 wheel drive via rear diff only .
thanks in advance to anyone that can possibly point me in right direction
photo is a Range Rover Sport ? (aka Disco3/4)
L322 3.6TDv8 Lux
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Moved to the RRS forum at OP’s request once vehicle identity had been confirmed. Hopefully someone here may be able to assist. 👍
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
The first diagnostic I would do is to ascertain what is turning, and what is not. In gear, idle, handbrake on (chocked ideally and/or with helper applying the brakes firmly). If the front shaft is spinning then the problem is after that (ie. front diff centre, front half shafts, etc). If the rear shaft is spinning the problem is back there. If one half shaft is spinning and the other isn't then that also helps narrow it down. Basically follow the rotating bits until they don't rotate anymore and then look around there. Blown CVs usually burp out some grease and chew up the gaiter, that sort of thing. If no visible shafts are spinning it's in the transfer case or transmission (or the interface between them). From your symptoms it sounds a bit like transfer case input shaft maybe given you say the 'box goes through the gears? But hopefully something else (simpler and cheaper). The transmission to transfer case interface is a known potential issue (spline wear). Good luck.
DiscoClax
'94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
'08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - 285/60R18 Falken AT3Ws, Rock slider-steps, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman rack, Traxide DBS, Gap IID
If you lock the centre diff, does the vehicle move?
If so you might have broken/disconnected the front driveshaft.
The only way you can lock the centre diff is to go into Rock Crawl - the cdl in these and the D3/D4 works differently to Defenders.
Unlike defenders you realistically cannot remove the front driveshaft, lock the CDL and drive home. You could go into Rock Crawl and do it but it will be a slow drive home.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
No manually lockable centre diff but select rock crawl whilst at off-road height and wheels straight ahead then see if the vehicle will move.
MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi
Graeme - why haven't you developed an override system (like your LLAMS) that means that with a flick of a switch you can lock the CDL irrespective of what TR setting you are in
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
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