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Thread: Active sway bar disabled - codes

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Kilmore, VIC
    Posts
    805

    Active sway bar disabled - codes

    Yesterday I got the dreaded red suspension icon and warning message. I had been doing some light off-roading in Lerderderg and was on a reasonable gravel track at the time. Codes are U0343 and C1119. Vehicle drives OK, fluids, etc all good. No leaks or bad noises. Active part of the sway bar appears to be non-functional, ie the sway bar actuators are locked and dumb. No longer sits dead flat cornering, actually leans slightly. I dropped past my Indy at closing time on the way home and they weren't quite sure what was going on and were going to research further, however they showed me that the reported system pressure at idle didn't meet the demanded value (just under - 1.9 bar vs 2.0 bar). Builds pressure aggressively when revved even slightly. Code/warning/etc comes back immediately after clearing, not after the usual diagnostic check time. Indy was confident no damage was being done driving it, which is good as it's my daily.

    I changed the ACE filter last night just in case that was causing a restriction but the old one was clean and clear and the issue is the same today.

    Any thoughts? I'm leaning towards a dodgy pressure sensor at this initial stage or potentially a bypass bleeding off slightly but not really sure?

    Codes reported:

    - Active Ride :
    DTC Code : C1119.
    DTC Information : Hydraulic pressure..
    Type : General failure information - component failure..
    Status :Permanent.

    and

    - Ride Level :
    DTC Code : U0434.
    DTC Information : Invalid data received from dynamic response module..
    Type : Bus signal/message failure - signal is invalid..
    Status :Pending.
    DiscoClax
    '94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
    '08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - Compomotives, 285/60 BFGs, Rock sliders, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman alloy rack, LLAMS, VCIQ

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Kilmore, VIC
    Posts
    805
    Update...

    Sensor suspected. Swapped out for a good used one and the problem went away.... for a while and then came back. Wiring to the sensor found to be damaged (looks like a stick got jammed in there*) so that was then rectified. And then the problem came back. Now fairly convinced that it's the ACE pump itself as it's struggling to generate the required system pressure at idle and the oil seems to be discolouring. Hard to verify with the sensor/wiring issues, but it now looks like it as all else checks out. A low mileage used item will be swapped in tomorrow and we'll see if that sorts it.

    *. Might look at knocking up a simple shield for it.
    DiscoClax
    '94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
    '08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - Compomotives, 285/60 BFGs, Rock sliders, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman alloy rack, LLAMS, VCIQ

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Kilmore, VIC
    Posts
    805
    Another update.

    Running through the LR diagnostic procedure (Suspension Warning Lamp Illuminated – Diagnostic & Repair Procedure – 2006-2013 Land Rover Range Rover Sport | JLR) highlighted that the issue related to the pressure regulator actuator in the valve block. Pulling the supply pipe off the back of the ACE pump showed there was a chewed up o-ring caught in there, supporting this theory. Further research reveals that a blown sway-bar hose can be a symptom of something amiss with this actuator (I blew a hose a few months back) as the hoses are designed as a fuse and let go at above 60bar where the max system pressure is controlled to 50bar. The pump reservoir is pretty clean and doesn't show any significant gunge or metal. The ACR filter is pristine. So blown hose, plus chewed up o-ring, plus diagnostic checks, plus pump operating well all point towards the actuator seals jamming, then chewing out then bleeding-past. Seal kit (rebuild kit) sourced and going in today. Fingers crossed. If this is the cause it means a $2 o-ring has caused a couple of grand's worth of repair and nearly a month in the shop (cumulative). Just as well it such a good thing to drive - when it's working.
    DiscoClax
    '94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
    '08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - Compomotives, 285/60 BFGs, Rock sliders, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman alloy rack, LLAMS, VCIQ

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Kilmore, VIC
    Posts
    805
    ..... and another update.

    Replacing all the seals didn't sort it. Confirmed the pump is good and the actuators (sway bars) are good also so we're trying swapping out a good used valve block in its entirety to see if that makes it work. Suspecting a failing pressure control actuator coil perhaps. If that fixes it I'll buy a new valve block in from LRDirect for ~$1k and fit that up after it lands. If it doesn't I fear he may well push it out of his workshop and have an unexpected fire... I hope he was joking, or at least will strip off the good gear first.
    DiscoClax
    '94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
    '08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - Compomotives, 285/60 BFGs, Rock sliders, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman alloy rack, LLAMS, VCIQ

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Kilmore, VIC
    Posts
    805

    Success....?

    Final (hopefully) update.

    Known good used valve block stripped, cleaned and reconditioned (seals) and fitted. That seems to have sorted it. A few hundred kms driving and everything works and is code-free. On the faulty valve block one of the actuators (valves) broke apart internally when we unscrewed it to have a look so that was likely the culprit. The directional actuator closest to the front.
    DiscoClax
    '94 D1 3dr Aegean Blue - 300ci stroker RV8, 4HP24 & Compushift, usual bar-work, various APT gear, 235/85 M/Ts, 3deg arms, Detroit lockers, $$$$, etc.
    '08 RRS TDV8 Rimini Red - Compomotives, 285/60 BFGs, Rock sliders, APT full under-protection, Mitch Hitch, Tradesman alloy rack, LLAMS, VCIQ

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