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Thread: Inlet Manifold DIY Replacement

  1. #1
    DaveKelly is offline Fossicker Silver Subscriber
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    Inlet Manifold DIY Replacement

    I am changing the Inlet Manifold on a 2011 TD6 Sport. I do not need to explain why as the internet is full of stories on this one. However, has anyone done the Right-Hand Inlet Manifold removal/replacement? I mean ‘hands on’.
    I am part way through with all the manifold bolts undone and please don’t ask how I got that back top bolt undone! Well, only if you must. The manifold is now released but I need some advice on what you did with that Y manifold. Did you decouple it from the manifold in some sort of magic way before removing the manifold?
    I am thinking it may be best/easiest to take a multi-saw to it and then clamp up with a piece of flex turbo hose on reassemble. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
    And by the way, if I had known what a pig of job it was going to be, I would have glued up the crack and taken it 4 hours away to Auckland for my LR guy’s.
    My fingers and hands would have loved and thanked me.

    Dave K
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    Don't they take the body off to do that sort of job?

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    DaveKelly is offline Fossicker Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by oka374 View Post
    Don't they take the body off to do that sort of job?

    Sure would be easier - but ran out of options.
    Might have to invent another option and re torque and connect up which is feeling much more like what is going to happen right now!

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    Rotate the Y-piece, anti-clockwise IIRC, as you raise its front. This is after having removed the housing to which the I/C hose is attached.

    Follow the workshop manual - don't attempt the job without proper instructions.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
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    DaveKelly is offline Fossicker Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    Rotate the Y-piece, anti-clockwise IIRC, as you raise its front. This is after having removed the housing to which the I/C hose is attached.

    Follow the workshop manual - don't attempt the job without proper instructions.

    Thanks Graeme - comments understood.

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    DaveKelly is offline Fossicker Silver Subscriber
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    Right Hand HP line off the fuel injection supply manifold

    Quote Originally Posted by DaveKelly View Post
    Thanks Graeme - comments understood.

    Back under the bonnet now. Thanks Graeme - the assembly just needed a little confidence and persuasion to extract it. (Multisaw was 'tongue in cheek')
    Before I disconnect the Right Hand HP line off the fuel injection supply manifold, is the pipe union nut LH or RH thread.
    The pipe nut has notches on the 6 'points' of the hex which sometimes indicates LH thread.
    The Manual is silent which suggests its RH..... But before I commit.
    Pipe Nut in question is circled in Red.
    Appreciate your comments.
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    They're normal RH threads.

    Did you get injector kits? Some people don't replace the pipes to the injectors but they're risking the old seats not sealing if there's a very slight difference in orientation of the injector. The pipe from the pump to the rail isn't so bad because the rail goes back where it was.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
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    Just some general info...

    *Does not require the body off.
    *The rear high pressure line that attaches to the high pressure pump is the most difficult part of the job.
    *Be very careful of the return or spill lines from the injectors and the connectors, its all plastic and require great care not to damage the oring seat.
    *Make sure the seat inside the head is nice and clean before fitting the injectors.
    *When fitting the injectors make sure they are seated in all the way, the injector retaining clamps are NOT there to drive the injectors into the seats but merely to retain them in place.
    *Be careful of ANY plastic tubes, connectors that are a few years old, sometimes they become quite brittle and will break as soon as look at them.
    *Once new manifold is in place (not bolted up), give it a bit of a little shuffle just to feel that its seated nice and flat on the head and isnt rocking on any spot.
    *even tightening up the bolts, take your time, you do not want this to leak oil after the job is done.
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    Regards
    Daz


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    It took my son and me a while to spot how to release those spill fittings!
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  10. #10
    DaveKelly is offline Fossicker Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    They're normal RH threads.

    Did you get injector kits? Some people don't replace the pipes to the injectors but they're risking the old seats not sealing if there's a very slight difference in orientation of the injector. The pipe from the pump to the rail isn't so bad because the rail goes back where it was.

    Sound advice on replacements.
    I think we can be confident it's RH thread.
    Just took picture of the fitting with boro-scope camera and threads are right hand high = RH thread.
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