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I did a test with internal temp sensor (IID diagnostics tool) vs ir thermometer on pan, and both read the same.
This is pointing the gun at the rear half of the pan as that is the hottest, im assuming as thats where the fluid exits the internals and falls into the pan again.
No one is missing the point - just use the filler in the side of the gearbox. What if the transmission sump was of the type that often comes up for sale that did not have a drain nor filler, you would definitely have to use the filler at the side of the gearbox or use the pipes that connect to the trans oil cooler.Quote:
Originally Posted by haydent
Hi Haydent - never worked out how to use the filler point in the genuine ZF steel pan either. I think this was intended for first fill use from the factory using an adaptor on it with some makes (like Audi and some BMW’s) which had a genuine steel pan from new but this was never used by LR.
For the refill I prefer to follow the offical ZF procedure which is much more detailed and in typical German fashion a more precise method to get the level perfect.
https://aston1936.files.wordpress.co...vice-guide.pdf
After you have gone through the multiple steps to get the initial oil in (running the engine, and going through the gears etc) - the final fill steps after it has cooled down again to then get the level correct is quite a precise process according to ZF.
At 30-35degC the oil level is slightly overfilled, and then in the last step as you slowly warm the oil up to 40degC the oil expands and keeps dripping out. At 40degC with only single drops dripping out the level is now at the maximum level and you fit the fill plug. If still a continuous flow out at 40degC, then you need to let it keep overflowing until you only get single drops but can not go above 50degC as you would then be at the minimum allowed level.
If you do it right you will have single drops before you get to 40degC, and then just refit the fill plug when you pass 40degC.
Many just check the level at 30-50degC which will be near enough right, but I prefer the ZF procedure which is more precise.
Just use the level plug like everyone else does, pan is lower so not suitable anyway .
Heads up, I just noticed weeping and drips on bolt heads at rear of pan, thought maybe id check the torque, and all the bolts were really loose, guessing half the required torque, which isnt much (10nm). So touched them all back up. It seems the gasket maybe contracts or compresses over time ? (40k km)
Also my temperature sticker is working and shows the box max temp about 110 deg. What a simple sticker like this doesnt show though, is did it once up a big hill hit that temp, or is it regularly running that hot...
Attachment 184017
Where do you get the stickers from? Not seen that before [smilebigeye]
RS PRO Non-Reversible Temperature Sensitive Label, 77degC to 127degC, 10 Levels | RSQuote:
Originally Posted by 101RRS
min order 10, so i have spares if want to buy one off me at cost and pay letter postage.
Thanks - was just curious as to where you got them
got the idea from a similar thing ashcroft were selling, so found something similar local
So i did a oil and filter change now we've done nearly 50k since first install. I ordered a gasket and filter off ebay from same seller, he does sell filter by itself, but figured i should have one spare and ready if it comes off damaged but it wasnt stuck to the transmission body at all, so i reused it. normally this would save $20 , with the filter being $33 by itself.
I forgot to take the transfer case bolt off at first, until I couldnt take the pan off, so read my original post, I wish i had earlier, as it would have made taking all the bolts out easier too. So once i had a bottle jack under the tc mount with the bolt out, i moved it up a bit, and did the swap, leaving the jack under while putting all the bolts back in.
This time around I had one of these pumps, and its the best thing, i could just lie back and let it do all the hard work. Also when you have to warm the transmission up to 40 deg and keep it running while you put in the last few litres it makes this fast to avoid the transmission getting much hotter.
Attachment 185126
Also this time around I had the GAP tool, so i could compare the temp on the tool and that read on the pan, and the spot on the pan that is closest to the tool is towards the front near the drain plug.
Took 5 Litres through the side fill port. Im going to cut open the filter and post the photos in the next post. Ive left the stone guard off for a few days to monitor for leaks.
