Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 24

Thread: Notes on RRS L320 MY10 TDV8 6HP26 Transmission Steel Pan, Filter & Fluid replacement.

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Mid North Coast, NSW
    Posts
    890
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I did a test with internal temp sensor (IID diagnostics tool) vs ir thermometer on pan, and both read the same.

    This is pointing the gun at the rear half of the pan as that is the hottest, im assuming as thats where the fluid exits the internals and falls into the pan again.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,474
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by haydent View Post
    You all seem to be missing the point, Im well aware of the factory fill/drain setup, Im reporting on the lack of effectiveness (for me) of the NEW fill port you get on these after market metal pans, and how I reverted back to the default fill.
    No one is missing the point - just use the filler in the side of the gearbox. What if the transmission sump was of the type that often comes up for sale that did not have a drain nor filler, you would definitely have to use the filler at the side of the gearbox or use the pipes that connect to the trans oil cooler.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Point Cook, VIC
    Posts
    2,327
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi Haydent - never worked out how to use the filler point in the genuine ZF steel pan either. I think this was intended for first fill use from the factory using an adaptor on it with some makes (like Audi and some BMW’s) which had a genuine steel pan from new but this was never used by LR.

    For the refill I prefer to follow the offical ZF procedure which is much more detailed and in typical German fashion a more precise method to get the level perfect.

    https://aston1936.files.wordpress.co...vice-guide.pdf

    After you have gone through the multiple steps to get the initial oil in (running the engine, and going through the gears etc) - the final fill steps after it has cooled down again to then get the level correct is quite a precise process according to ZF.

    At 30-35degC the oil level is slightly overfilled, and then in the last step as you slowly warm the oil up to 40degC the oil expands and keeps dripping out. At 40degC with only single drops dripping out the level is now at the maximum level and you fit the fill plug. If still a continuous flow out at 40degC, then you need to let it keep overflowing until you only get single drops but can not go above 50degC as you would then be at the minimum allowed level.

    If you do it right you will have single drops before you get to 40degC, and then just refit the fill plug when you pass 40degC.

    Many just check the level at 30-50degC which will be near enough right, but I prefer the ZF procedure which is more precise.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    St Helena,Melbourne
    Posts
    16,052
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Just use the level plug like everyone else does, pan is lower so not suitable anyway .
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Mid North Coast, NSW
    Posts
    890
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Heads up, I just noticed weeping and drips on bolt heads at rear of pan, thought maybe id check the torque, and all the bolts were really loose, guessing half the required torque, which isnt much (10nm). So touched them all back up. It seems the gasket maybe contracts or compresses over time ? (40k km)

    Also my temperature sticker is working and shows the box max temp about 110 deg. What a simple sticker like this doesnt show though, is did it once up a big hill hit that temp, or is it regularly running that hot...

    20230224_122657.jpg

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,474
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Where do you get the stickers from? Not seen that before
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Mid North Coast, NSW
    Posts
    890
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    Where do you get the stickers from? Not seen that before
    RS PRO Non-Reversible Temperature Sensitive Label, 77degC to 127degC, 10 Levels | RS

    min order 10, so i have spares if want to buy one off me at cost and pay letter postage.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,474
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks - was just curious as to where you got them
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Mid North Coast, NSW
    Posts
    890
    Total Downloaded
    0
    got the idea from a similar thing ashcroft were selling, so found something similar local

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Mid North Coast, NSW
    Posts
    890
    Total Downloaded
    0
    So i did a oil and filter change now we've done nearly 50k since first install. I ordered a gasket and filter off ebay from same seller, he does sell filter by itself, but figured i should have one spare and ready if it comes off damaged but it wasnt stuck to the transmission body at all, so i reused it. normally this would save $20 , with the filter being $33 by itself.

    I forgot to take the transfer case bolt off at first, until I couldnt take the pan off, so read my original post, I wish i had earlier, as it would have made taking all the bolts out easier too. So once i had a bottle jack under the tc mount with the bolt out, i moved it up a bit, and did the swap, leaving the jack under while putting all the bolts back in.

    This time around I had one of these pumps, and its the best thing, i could just lie back and let it do all the hard work. Also when you have to warm the transmission up to 40 deg and keep it running while you put in the last few litres it makes this fast to avoid the transmission getting much hotter.


    Capture.jpg

    Also this time around I had the GAP tool, so i could compare the temp on the tool and that read on the pan, and the spot on the pan that is closest to the tool is towards the front near the drain plug.

    Took 5 Litres through the side fill port. Im going to cut open the filter and post the photos in the next post. Ive left the stone guard off for a few days to monitor for leaks.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!