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Thread: Notes on RRS L320 MY10 TDV8 6HP26 Transmission Steel Pan, Filter & Fluid replacement.

  1. #1
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    Post Notes on RRS L320 MY10 TDV8 6HP26 Transmission Steel Pan, Filter & Fluid replacement.

    Luckily this transmission is widely used and has been around a while, so you can get at a good price a steel pan kit, with separate filter, new bolts and gasket and 6L ZF Life Gaurd 6 oil. ($400)

    This way you dont need to lift the engine to change the pan/filter. Plus its meant to be cheaper over long run as not buying new plastic pan every time.

    So theres plenty of docs and videos around of people doing this but I thought id add my tips id remember to do next time easier, i had to disconnect and jack up TC to lift the trans a little, not sure if this is normal.

    I chose to just do a oil swap, not "full flush", and just do 1-2 more oil changes sooner, comparing the resultant color of each.


    • On the day of the job dont run your AC, turn it off, as the last thing you need is water dripping on you and potentially in the sump while putting it on...
    • Technically I could fit under the car with it in raised height, its pretty tight, so I made up 4 small caravan style leveller ramps with a few stepped layers of sleepers)
    • Even though i was able to get the old sump off (after cutting up, more on that later) without jacking anything, I couldnt get the new pan past the filter once fitted due to the non-removable front cross member. So make the job easier from the beginning and put a jack with block of wood under the transfer case, take some weight, remove the one bolt holding the transfer case mount, and lift the gearbox/tc/ just a little, try 5-10cm first, adjust as needed later, but being mindfull of not going too far.
    • After the initial drain i put the plug back in to stop drips, but when you take most bolts out and the pan drops down enough to disconnect the filter pickup tube, about another litre will flow out. have the oil pan ready, and take out drain plug again, or catch it as you lower a corner of the pan and it flows out over the edge.
    • Now the tricky bit, cutting the filter pickup tube, so you can get the pan/filter out without apparently having to disconnect an engine mount. Ive seen you can do it with a hacksaw blade, but i could not get enough purchase and force on it and space is very limited, so i just used a multi-tool vibration cutter to cut the pan in half as close the the front non removable cross member as possible, to then get access to the tube and cut it with the multi tool too. I think i might dave better luck with a coarser toothed blade and trying with the jack lifted TC (I had only lifted after getting the pan off)
      • WARNING - About this last bit you have to obviously be very careful to not cut too deep, though there is a fair amount of gap once the pan is hanging (no bolts) which gives you a safety margin, and obviously only use a plastic cutting blade, the main issue to watch out for is when cutting the outer edges as you there is less gap here and you dont want to scratch the mating face, put your finger or a piece of wood in the gap, it wont cut you, but you will feel when you have gone enough, also watch out for brown plastic box about mid way, as it could be damaged too, thats why cut close to front member to be clear of this.
      • ALSO be aware this method will flick plastic 'dust' up onto the bottom of the valve block that must be cleaned, its coarse, so not hard to spot, and the filter will hopefully catch anything you miss, consider this a last resort method, though it is easy and fast.

    • Then fitting the new kit is easy with the TC lifted a little (i spent about an hour trying to get it one before lifting the tc, and even considered removing the exhaust). Once the filter is fitted and aligned so its prongs saddle the valve block segments, lift the pan up at 90 degrees to its final position with the drain/fill end facing the passenger(au) side of the car, then get it over the filter and rotate.
    • Mine took almost 5L to fill once the engine was running, pan temp 40 deg.




    • Torque for new pan bolts 10NM
    • Torque for original side fill plug 35NM (didn't realise until after installing new pan that it had a fill plug, so could have not used this one.
    • Torque for TC mount bolt 175NM


    Not a bad video on the topic: Atlantic British Presents: Automatic Transmission Filter Conversion On An LR3 - YouTube
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    Just did 2nd transmission oil change, and found the new fill port (in the pan) problematic.

    For starters its a rare hex size that i couldnt find in supercheap, i think its like 17mm but not 100%, i found one of my 3 jaw pullers center bolt head fitted so used that.

    Secondly I couldnt seem to use it to get a decent amount of oil back in. I got about 1.5 litres back in before it started to overflow, i think this is not that bad, so then i started the engine to get pump primed and pumping and the rest in.

    At this point i should have been about to put in about another 3.5 liters but more started flowing out than before the engine was started ! like heaps more. so i stopped the engine and put that fill port plug back in.

    Stumped and knowing i had not put anywhere near as much in as needed, i went back to using the original side fill port.

    This went fine. and got the rest in.

    What I think might have been happening is the fluid that was exiting the internals and falling down to the pan was splashing and falling out the whole, there is a white plastic hood that i figure is meant to stop it falling right out, but maybe this has become dislodged as there's nothing really holding in place (i put my finger up to try and feel, should have tried looking with torch though).



    On another note, in regards, to fill temp, I found that with the relatively significantly large portion of the oil that must be put in while the engine is running, likely by the time you get it all in the tranny/oil temp will be above the 30-40 deg measure temp, particularly if the car was worm to begin with.

    So i leave the car overnight to cool down, and get another .5L in when its at about 35 deg compared with 50 deg.

  3. #3
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    I thought i might share the official level check guide:
    1.jpg
    2.jpg

  4. #4
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    Unless I have read this wrong you fill from the plug that is on the side of the ZF box . I have a discovery but I'm sure the set up is the same .
    You fill from that plug and cycle thru the gears and then once the temp is between 30-50 you fill till it dribbles out the plug .
    It's been a few months since I have done a change but that's how I remember it.

    Bulletman

  5. #5
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    The aftermarket steel pan i installed has a small bolt drain, and then the larger plug is a fill, as it has a riser, kind of reverse to the standard plastic pan, but for me it didnt work.

    Ford ZF 6HP26 6Spd Automatic Transmission Steel Metal Sump/pan Conversion kit (black gasket) - MJ Products

  6. #6
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    The correct fill plug is on the box , takes a standard size think its 5 or 6mm hex or allan key.
    Pretty sure it's on drivers side about 20mm above the lip of where the sump bolts up.

    Cheers Bulletman

  7. #7
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    If you fill thru the correct plug you will get majority of the oil in first go and can complete the job first go , you wont need to let cool down till next morning and from what I read not be sure if the box is correctly filled.

    Bulletman

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    You drain through the small hex sump plug and fill through the filler hole in the side of the gearbox with the gearbox temp between 30c and 50c. With the engine off fill through the fill hole until it runs out - then start the engine and move through the gears - I then leave in drive (remember to do this safely) and then continue to fill the gearbox until the fluid runs out then put the fill plug back in. Switch off etc.

    Ignore the big hex drain plug - is not needed.
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    Quote Originally Posted by haydent View Post
    • Now the tricky bit, cutting the filter pickup tube, so you can get the pan/filter out without apparently having to disconnect an engine mount. Ive seen you can do it with a hacksaw blade,

    The common method is to give the pan a sharp horizontal pull to snap the plastic tube rather than cut it.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
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  10. #10
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    I tested with it left in drive it make no difference, just having the engine running, and having been through the gears is enough.

    You all seem to be missing the point, Im well aware of the factory fill/drain setup, Im reporting on the lack of effectiveness (for me) of the NEW fill port you get on these after market metal pans, and how I reverted back to the default fill.

    Re letting it cool down, if you start with a warm car, by the time you have left it running enough to fill to 2nd largest portion of the oil (after 1st of filling with engine off) your temperature will be 50+ over the recommended 30-40.


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