Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: A/C Compressor & Condenser Change Pics & Notes

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Mid North Coast, NSW
    Posts
    890
    Total Downloaded
    0

    A/C Compressor & Condenser Change Pics & Notes

    (More Photos and Notes Coming Soon)

    Car is 2010 L320 TDV8, sharing photos and tips.

    Most of my posts and lots more info is in this thread: D4 A/C Compressor issue

    Initial symptoms where slow to make cold sometimes, then one day no more cold, only hot instead, found pulley break away system broken due to intermittently locking up pump.
    Within several weeks of no cold, all gas has leaked out at the pump, leaving green dye all over its front.

    Parts ordered: (coming soon)

    I followed the workshop manuals available online here 'Range Rover Sport2005-2009.pdf' and 'Workshop manual Range Rover Sport 2013 Sec.5 Body.pdf' please use them as your primary guide, and my photos/notes supplement.

    First step replace the condenser & drier/filter:

    Starting point:
    20221227_092355.jpg
    Front grill:
    20221227_092408.jpg
    Headlights: (took opportunity to install LED cornering bulbs)
    20221227_093313.jpg
    Tow point cover:
    20221227_094601.jpg
    Wheels:
    20221227_100150.jpg
    Both Wheel Arch Trims:
    20221227_103312.jpg
    Disconnect 4 plugs:
    20221227_103847.jpg
    Disconnect 2x headlight washer lines:
    20221227_103857.jpg
    Once upper and lower screw/bolts are removed bumper cover comes off:
    20221227_104012.jpg
    Hood Latch Panel:
    20221227_110547.jpg
    Hidden location of lower condenser mount bolts, behind rubber flap:
    20221227_111202.jpg

    Location of duct mount bolts that must be removed to allow duct to move forward to allow condenser mount tabs past:
    20221227_113305.jpg
    How I accessed those bolts:
    20221227_131249.jpg
    Disconnect just left side of auxillary radiator and swing out the way, no coolant is lost.
    Condenser can come out, left edge first, pulling duct out of way of lower mount tabs:

    20221227_114132.jpg
    Condenser/Drier out:
    20221227_114152.jpg
    New Condenser/Drier installed with new orings:
    20221227_121827.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Mid North Coast, NSW
    Posts
    890
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Next step, compressor removal:

    Drain a few litres out of the radiator:
    20221227_131153.jpg
    Remove upper cover, intercooler pipes and fan:
    20221227_132014.jpg
    You must disconnect some upper radiator pipes to do this:
    Also compressor marked with arrow:
    20221227_132047.jpg
    Another view of compressor through wheel arch:
    20221227_135952.jpg
    Removal of belt:
    20221227_140708.jpg
    Removal of turbo heat shield and mount, gives access for hand around rear of strut:
    20221227_141406.jpg

    Disconnect and relocate ac lines, replace orings.
    20221227_144712.jpg
    Removal of turbo supply joiner:
    20221227_142758.jpg
    Disconnect and move back solid turbo supply pipe, rotating helps:
    20221227_144345.jpg

    This was a hard bit, remove rear bolt, I used a ratchet strap to hold metal turbo output pipe a bit further away from pump to give better access, 1/4" ratchet with knuckle
    20221227_154403.jpg
    Releasing the turbo supply pipe from the lower fan shroud was tricky, I ended up pulling them both out
    This is to make room for the pump to get past when removing through hood.
    20221227_161920.jpg

    Now you can take out the 2 front bolts on the pump and the pump itself:
    (shown with pulley removed, this should not be necessary)
    20221227_162038.jpg

    The amount of oil I drained out of the pump:
    20221227_172804.jpg

    Sad to see metal flecks:
    20221227_172814.jpg
    20221227_172903.jpg
    I decided to open up the drier to see what it was like inside:
    To my pleasant surprise I found the desiccant is not that big, and the flow does not go through it, but more importantly there isa screen filter that all the flow goes through:
    20221228_155017.jpg
    It was intact with quite small holes, it just slides out through the bottom of the tube, so it could be slid out to inspect without cutting the tube.
    20221228_155140.jpg

    All the flow from the condenser flows through the drier (as tested with air compressor), the flow goes into the drier tube first, and then out through the filter, so there as plenty of space in the tube cavity for junk/debris build up.

    20221228_155025.jpg

    One would expect no significant metal pieces would make it through the condenser and drier screen, so this made me more confident in just only replacing them, rather than the whole ac system, evaporator included as recommended by denso/lr , but this would have been too much work (including removing the complete interior) without trying just replacing these parts first.

    I was also not able to flush the parts not changed, due to the TX valve being under the dash, though some say it can be flushed (slowly) past, if I was going to try this I would check with my AC tech if he would be ok pulling a vac on the system for longer and getting any solvent left behind, I was just afraid of solvent getting into the pump on trip into town.

    I did put the air pump on the open system pipe in normal flow direction to check TX valve wasnt blocked and what the flow rate would be like if i tried to flush past.

    How long it will last only time will tell, fingers crossed, its currently re-gassed and making cold again.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Mid North Coast, NSW
    Posts
    890
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Post

    Cant edit my original post, so heres the parts list, please confirm what part numbers you need, I ordered from lrparts.net , keep in mind its cheaper to split your parts into separate orders if you can get each one under $1000, as then you dont have to pay import duty, gst and customs fees.

    Denso 7SEU17C Compressor LR014536
    Condenser with dryer LR018405
    O-rings JUU500020 x2 , JUU500010, JUU500040

    (If I had my time again id look into getting a cheap used or new 7SEU17C body that fits another common car and swap the differing parts over from my dead pump)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Mid North Coast, NSW
    Posts
    890
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Here is a screenshot of my ac pressure from car off, to start car with ac on full.


    Screenshot_20221231-103201_IIDControl.jpg

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!