Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: Replacement Air Suspension Valve Block

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    15
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Replacement Air Suspension Valve Block

    Hi,
    was all packed for the long weekend with caravan and 30min in the Air Suspension gave away on the highway and dropped all 4 corners. Think the back left first then all 4 dropped.
    I believe its due to this Error Code: C1A13 Pressure Does Not Decrease When Venting Gallery - Signal plausibility failure

    It appears that the main Value Block has failed or at least the seals/o rings have failed.

    Question, do I replace the whole unit or just the seals/ o-rings, do I replace the front and rear at same time?
    Is this the right part number: RVH000046 main, rear unit RVH000055 , front unit RVH000095

    I could fix myself but wife wants a pro to investigate. Who is more suitable to these Air Suspension related work, in Melbourne?

    It is holding air at the moment, but with the added weight in car and the caravan must have been enough to drop it. I was am to get air back into the system and get home, had to stop along the way as seems after 30mins its too much.
    We do use the Access height alot, especially to get old people into the car so wonder if that has caused the failure.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    2,353
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Blocks don’t fail like that. I’d say it’s a compressor fault that caused the system to drop. A compressor rebuild kit most likely.

    Rebuild of either is simple and cheap but no shop will do it as they only change parts.

    4x4airseals has fault code information on their website directing to which kit.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,474
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by PerthDisco View Post
    Blocks don’t fail like that. I’d say it’s a compressor fault that caused the system to drop.
    Not likely to cause a drop in the suspension - these are controlled by the various valves blocks. I have driven my car without a compressor fitted and while it settled a little when the levelled it did not drop.

    I suspect there is crud in the valve block that prevents the valve closing when it should - this could indicate a compressor issue as the crud can come from the desiccant.

    If me I would clean out the valve block and see if that fixes the issue - if not go looking further.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  4. #4
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Administrator
    I'm here to help you!
    Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    30,160
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Not relevant to the topic but I'd suggest you change your username to something other than your email address.

    If you'd like to do that, PM me and I'll do it in the back end (I'm an Admin) so your messages move to the new username.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Mid North Coast, NSW
    Posts
    890
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by wickwazz View Post
    Hi,
    was all packed for the long weekend with caravan and 30min in the Air Suspension gave away on the highway and dropped all 4 corners. Think the back left first then all 4 dropped.
    I believe its due to this Error Code: C1A13 Pressure Does Not Decrease When Venting Gallery - Signal plausibility failure

    It appears that the main Value Block has failed or at least the seals/o rings have failed.

    Question, do I replace the whole unit or just the seals/ o-rings, do I replace the front and rear at same time?
    Is this the right part number: RVH000046 main, rear unit RVH000055 , front unit RVH000095

    I could fix myself but wife wants a pro to investigate. Who is more suitable to these Air Suspension related work, in Melbourne?

    It is holding air at the moment, but with the added weight in car and the caravan must have been enough to drop it. I was am to get air back into the system and get home, had to stop along the way as seems after 30mins its too much.
    We do use the Access height alot, especially to get old people into the car so wonder if that has caused the failure.
    maybe its just a problem with the gallery pressure sensor, do you have diag tool ? if iid you can manually trigger the different valve blocks and read the system pressure.

    maybe a blockage in the drier canister which is where the air vents out through.

    you say it takes some time to fill too ? this would indicate there is more than problem with venting.

    there is separate error for taking too long to fill, ive had this, it generally only takes 5 mins to trigger.

    maybe take the pump off and check drier canister contents, or order new desiccant kit and do a swap, or order another cheap ebay pump to swap while you work/look on the existing one.
    Last edited by p38arover; 31st January 2023 at 10:39 AM.

  6. #6
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Administrator
    I'm here to help you!
    Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    30,160
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    Not relevant to the topic but I'd suggest you change your username to something other than your email address.

    If you'd like to do that, PM me and I'll do it in the back end (I'm an Admin) so your messages move to the new username.
    Done as requested.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    15
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi, after leaving for 24 hours in 'Off-road height' , looked at the error codes and the pressure again, here is a list of all the fault codes.

    It looks like the rear valve or main valve does have a leak as the heights in the rear differ from yesterday to today.

    **Error Codes are**: Restarted and no new codes
    C1A13 Pressure Does Not Decrease When Venting Gallery - Signal plausibility failure
    C1A03 Front Left height sensor
    C1A04 Front Right height sensor
    C1A05 Rear Left height sensor (note no Rear Right error but it was lowered)
    U0416 Invalid Data received for Vehicle Dynamic Control Module
    C1A07 Cross Articulation - Signal compare failure. (this was probably caused by the collapse while on motorway and over 55kph..)

    The Heights have increased slightly..after 24 hours (without restarting the engine)
    Front Left 44 to 48
    Front Right 42 to 45
    Rear Left 31 to 35
    Rear right 28 to 29

    Then today lowered back to normal height and back to off-road height :
    Front Left 43
    Front Right 41
    Rear Left 37
    Rear right 33

    Gallery Pressure 291kpa to 118kpa (pressure remaining of 118 overnight), then when compressor restarted back to 1350+ when filling up.

    It took 35 seconds to lift from Normal to Off-road height.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Mid North Coast, NSW
    Posts
    890
    Total Downloaded
    0
    actually so with the galley pressure sensor it really only reads the tank pressure when filling once pump stops, the solenoid between the tank and pump closes and then its pressure reading is just the valve block and bits of pipe between each or part of system opened to it. those readings seem fine so i dont think its the sensor.

    maybe try putting it in normal height, and just using diag tool to vent to bump stops to test the venting

    here are some nice graphics to show you the layout if you dont have them (from manual)


    the main valve block next to the pump is really mainly a manifold, it does no switching

    the venting is finally controlled by a solenoid mounted in the pump unit, but specific solenoids for each corner or tank must be activated too to release air to it

    what i would do is order a cheap ebay pump ~$250, (others will scoff at these ebay ones, but it makes a fine spare and useful for troubleshooting now, at least it might fix the problem and keep you drivable while you do a drier/seal kit on the genuine pump) just double check you order the right type of pump.


    also while waiting for new pump go over all connectors/joins with soap spray looking for leaks

    im guessing the car heights will drift a bit over time due to temperature changes, normally the car checks these and adjusts system pressure to level, but may not be due to system errors

    Screenshot from 2022-11-07 10-32-25.jpg
    Screenshot from 2022-11-07 10-32-44.jpg
    Screenshot from 2022-11-07 10-31-00.jpg
    Screenshot from 2022-11-07 10-31-23.jpg

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Mid North Coast, NSW
    Posts
    890
    Total Downloaded
    0
    thinking about what i said last night, i dont like to just throw out advice to buy new parts, so i wanted to say that while a pump is always going to be handy to have around (and at the current ones age likely needs servicing), if you test the deflate to bump stops option on the car and it works ok and the pumping up seems ok, then maybe taking the effort to swap it is not needed at the moment.

    in that case id try focussing on clearing the errors and seeing which ones keep coming back, as well as checking for leaks if its going down by itself

    it could even be a control problem...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Mid North Coast, NSW
    Posts
    890
    Total Downloaded
    0
    thinking again, you dont even need to use diag tool to test deflate, just go to access mode a few times from offroad or normal...

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!