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Thread: ACE Bleeding help

  1. #1
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    ACE Bleeding help

    Hi Guys, I have RRS 2009 TDV8 and the Orange suspension light come up on the dash a week ago. After dialling in my Gap tool it comes up with fault code C1B11-14 Pressure control valve - General electric failure - circut short to ground or open(A. When i clear the fault it comes straight back on. I have checked and cleaned the electrical connectors as well as inspected the wiring directly around the valve body and that all seems good. I replaced the ACE filter a year ago and checked reservoir level. I think it is most likely either the pressure sensor or the pressure solonid valve so i went down to a local wrecker and pulled off a working used valve block and want to replace them out which brings me to my question - has anyone know of a successful way of bleeding the ace sytem in the home garage?

  2. #2
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    To Bleed (from memory):
    - use brake pressure bleeding gadget to apply 10psi to the fluid reservoir (clean and with appropriate fluid). Might have trouble finding the right cap fitting. Or buy the landrover tool.
    - disconnect the wires to the DCVs at top of the valve block and apply 12v to both. Occasionally check these don't get too hot while actuated. Might need to splice in new connectors to existing wiring. Or buy the landrover tool which is just the correct plugs and a switch.
    - Bleed using the nipples on the sway bar actuators . Two at front, two at rear.

    Simple, but fiddly splicing in electrical connectors in tight space then messy when the pressure bleeder doesn't fit correctly and you get covered in oil whilst under the car.
    But if car is mobile, probably less trouble to pay independent LandRover mechanic that has the correct tools.

    Full instructions for bleeding in the workshop manual somewhere in section 204-06 Ride Handling and Optimization
    ex 2008 RangeRoverSport TDV8
    ex 1995 Discovery 1 300tdi

  3. #3
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    Thanks Peter, appreciated!
    Buying the 2 specialised Landrover tools isnt going to add up so i might attempt to rig up a home made set-up. If it works i'll post it up.
    Good idea recommending the brake bleeding fluid tool.
    A couple of questions which i hope you or someone else on the forum can answer. Once i rig up connectors for the two DCV's, then onto a switch and power/ battery do both Dcv's run together when i am beeding the front swaybar/actuator?
    Also if i end up having to drive the car to an Indi shop after changing out the valve block to have them do the bleeding is there a relay i can remove to disable the ACE system so i don't potentially do any damage to the system until it is bled correctly?

  4. #4
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    The manual says "Using the special tool, open both actuator control valves" during the bleeding process. So both.

    I have no real knowing about disconnecting but my guessing from looking how it works in the manual: Hopefully the car will let you drive if electrical plugs are removed from the the valve block. Though not sure it is neccessary. Leaving plugs connected should even partially bleed the system (not fully). Probably important part is to ensure fluid reservoir is topped up so pump doesn't run dry.
    ex 2008 RangeRoverSport TDV8
    ex 1995 Discovery 1 300tdi

  5. #5
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    ACE SYSTEM FIXED!!

    To follow up on my original post when the dreaded Orange Triangle on the dash with the "Vehicle Lean When Cornering" came on about 6 weeks ago and wouldn't clear with the Gap tool.
    The Gap tool came up with C1B11-18 Pressure Control Valve - General electrical failure. This is what measures i ended up doing before i got to the eventual fault. I went to a local Indie dealer who plugged it in to their advanced scanner and came up with the exact same fault.
    Checked the Ace fluid and the filter for damage although i had replaced the filter 12 months ago as well as as the oil with Ravenol SSF. With no issues to the filter i then felt the most likely cause would be the pressure transducer or the pressure control valve so i went to a local wreckers and removed a whole valve block, connectors and while i was at it grabbed one of the accelerometers for good measure. This set me back $250 and i begun testing all 3 solonoids and voltage from the used valve block and used the connectors i took from the donor vehicle to test the car's solonoids which all came back with the same voltage and all engaging.
    I then wanted to swap out the pressure transducer but clearance due to the ACE pipes is limited to cutting down a 27mm ring spanner to fit in there. I was really thinking this was going to be the issue but unfortunately not.
    I then proceeded to swap the pressure control valve located at the back of the valve block (towards the rear of the car). To gain access for removal you have to disconnect the 2 ACE pipes going to the rear bar which wasn't a problem. So after doing that and attempting to reset the fault code still no luck. I pretty much had 2 options left which was to replace the complete valve block which would mean bleeding the system (which i did have the valve block but didn't have the specialised tools to do the job properly) or replace the module.
    Note that i have been still driving the car with no dramas with the fault code up everytime upon starting with the active sway bars going into locked mode, so with a bit of time on my side i decided on the module first up and ordered a used but working module off a 2008 TDV8 from the UK wreckers.Cost me $95 aud which included delivery and arrived in 2 & 1/2 weeks which was a bonus. Swapped that out in 30 mins and presto no more trouble codes. I will probably sell the donor valve block so the whole cost wasnt too bad in the end.
    One thing to note with the module's from what i have read in the LR manual is that there are two tunes preset on these modules 1. for all petrol RRS and includes the TDV6 and 2. only for the TDV8 and when replaced require the correct tune from the data contained within the CCF retained in the instrument cluster. I spoke with Patrick at Gap on this and he came back with some important and usefull info that might be of assistance to someone in the future.

    "
    You cannot fit a 2011 ECU in a 2009 car. They do not share the same electrical architecture. You would call the function ''live values and calib learn'' when retrofitting a used ECU. Of course, it needs to be from the same platform and model year range. 2005-2009".

    As mentioned previoulsy the one i purchased was out of a 2008 RRS TDV8 so fitted and worked straight up.

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