Refurb of an Elderly RRS

**101RRS** · 20th December 2025, 02:59 PM

Well my 2007 RRS TDV6 has now covered 250,000km and I have owned it for 15 years and it has been the most reliable car I have owned. Is starting to show its age a bit, but does not consume oil, and the auto fluid is still reasonably clean when changed every second service.

Still all original CVs, all original wheel bearings, all original shocks (back are dodgy), all original air suspension (1 rebuild of comp), all original control arms though fronts rattle away.

Is really time to consider moving it on but it is really worth very little, indeed next insurance renewal is coming off full comprehensive and going to third party fire and theft.

As I am now in my 70s and the car still suits my needs I have decided to keep it and replace what needs replacing. New wheel bearings, new airbag struts and shocks, and control arms.

1. I have had a set of quality front lower control arms to go in with a new ball joint for the top control arm. I have checked the bushes on the front top and lower control arms and all seem fine but the lowers are shot - so what about the front top control arms, as they look OK how can I tell if they need replacing. Is the go to still replace the complete are or just get the bushes replaced.

2. On the rear, there is a rattle, very much like the exhaust hitting the chassis but it is not. I assume it is a control arm rattling. So again which rear control arm is likely to be rattling and do we now replace the arms or just the bushes.

3. The original airbags/struts have lasted well but as a precaution I will replace all four. Given the type of driving I will be doing in the future, I really don't need absolute top spec so that I could do the Paris Dakar tomorrow but I do want something that will last - suggestions on what to get thanks.

4. The engine is coming for a cam belt/fuel pump belt change next year which I will pay someone to do. Last time these were done the oil pump was changed but everything else was OK and left on - so all the pulleys and tensioners will need replacing is well. The water pump has now 250,000km on it so I suppose it will need doing - I guess I can wait for the A/C compressor and steering pump to start playing up before I do those - any other suggestions.

5. I will just continue doing a basic change of ATF every 20,000km and leave the gearbox and deal with issues as they arise.

If anyone has any other suggestions to look at please comment accordingly.

Garry

**Graeme** · 20th December 2025, 03:56 PM

I would certainly have the water pump changed as its a show-stopper if it fails. I would also fit a new a/c compressor because of the cost of having it replaced later by itself, but not a show-stopper unless the front bearing fails. I would also change the alternator if it is the original, but probably already changed by now.
The wheel bearings could wait until they get noisy and then only change the noisy one, but with Timken in any case.

**101RRS** · 20th December 2025, 10:10 PM

Thanks Graeme - so I take it that the A/C compressor is a pain to change if it just fails but is much easier with the front of the engine removed to change belts etc.

Alternator is a regular failure about every 5 years or so. Was last changed 2 years ago. I still have the OEM one in the garage so might put a new set of diodes etc in it as a spare.

Thanks

Garry

**RANDLOVER** · 21st December 2025, 07:32 AM

LCA's are less expensive as DIY option if you have a press, but new arms if a mechanic is doing the job as not worth the labour cost of pressing bushes in and out.

Also by now the plastic 5-way water housing on top of the engine would've been done, but there is also a plastic dog-leg fitting down the side of the block.

**101RRS** · 21st December 2025, 02:16 PM

Originally Posted by RANDLOVER

Also by now the plastic 5-way water housing on top of the engine would've been done, but there is also a plastic dog-leg fitting down the side of the block.

Yes I have it replaced with each belt change - AliExpress have a nice metal one that is cheaper than the plastic one but I am wary of anything from AliExpress - but a metal one that is welded nicely from a dodgy supplier should be better than a genuine plastic that does fail as it gets old.

**Graeme** · 21st December 2025, 02:20 PM

Get better gaskets to use with the cheap aluminium outlet. My old D4 has one now and it was a perfect match for the genuine plastic one fitted some years earlier, but not the supplied gaskets.

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