Thread: L322 td6 GM transmission oil & filter

Originally Posted by rick130

Jase, I'm pretty confident in saying that none of those brands on your list are actually Licensed Dex IV fluids.

I assume you really mean to say Licenced Dexron VI fluid, not IV.

Originally Posted by tempestv8

I assume you really mean to say Licenced Dexron VI fluid, not IV.

and it's only taken someone six months to pick that up

Just an update,just before I sold my L322 I bought my gearbox oil direct from BMW,a couple of hundred dollars for 20ltres. Pat

Ok fellows, this thread has been a source of info and as I've scared off my local auto transmission guy due to oil specs I will do it myself over xmas if time permits. This is what I'm looking at doing and as yet have not read Dave's Rave as it is in the post.
1. Drop oil out of pan and remove pan and filter.
2. Replace filter, gasket and pan and plug.
3. Fill till overflow with Penrite ATF DX-VI Lic No. J-60312 available at supercheap autos, Repco etc

The pan is the reservoir for the oil pickup to pump to converter to cooler, I believe from flow charts.

4. Disconnect oil cooler return line, attach hose and drain to bucket.
5. Start motor and pump 1-2 litres out to bucket. Don't get hungury and pump too much out.
6. Stop motor.
7. Top up oil pan till full.
8. Repeat steps 5-7 till clean oil is being discharged.
9. Final oil top up with motor running and oil between 35-45C

A dry box requires 9.7 ltrs. This method should replace oil from the pump, torque converter, oil cooler and lines.

I'm assuming that the oil is pumped while the motor is running and transmission in park.

Comments please and what have I missed?

Originally Posted by John L322

Ok fellows, this thread has been a source of info and as I've scared off my local auto transmission guy due to oil specs I will do it myself over xmas if time permits. This is what I'm looking at doing and as yet have not read Dave's Rave as it is in the post.
1. Drop oil out of pan and remove pan and filter.
2. Replace filter, gasket and pan and plug.
3. Fill till overflow with Penrite ATF DX-VI Lic No. J-60312 available at supercheap autos, Repco etc

The pan is the reservoir for the oil pickup to pump to converter to cooler, I believe from flow charts.

4. Disconnect oil cooler return line, attach hose and drain to bucket.
5. Start motor and pump 1-2 litres out to bucket. Don't get hungury and pump too much out.
6. Stop motor.
7. Top up oil pan till full.
8. Repeat steps 5-7 till clean oil is being discharged.
9. Final oil top up with motor running and oil between 35-45C

A dry box requires 9.7 ltrs. This method should replace oil from the pump, torque converter, oil cooler and lines.

I'm assuming that the oil is pumped while the motor is running and transmission in park.

Comments please and what have I missed?

"What have I missed" - for a start one should never ever start an engine with the transmission other than full to the brim and all pipes connected and working under pressure!

The ATF pumped through the pipes is being done so for a reason - not to assist you to decant the system of the old ATF.

Unless you have a destroyed transmission and in which case it requires a complete overhaul it is a nonsense to attempt to do a complete ATF change over.

If you are that worried about leaving some of the old ATF in the system then repeat ATF dumps until you are satisfied.

Compared to the factory lifetime ATF spec you are way ahead after a filter change let alone changing most of the ATF.

Daniel,
Myself not being from a mechanical background but from the 'couldn't afford mechanic rates' as a young bloke but still enjoys tinkering, much to the SWMBO distaste would like more info if you have the time.
The system is pressure regulated with max pressure at start up to lubricate the clutches of the TCC etc. After initial start up and max pressure achieved and lubricated clutches, the ECU then dirverts some of this pressure through relief valves.
As long as there is oil in the pan to feed on I don't see the problem. How did the oil get there at the factory on initial build?
The fact I'm a tight bastard, with time and money, only want to do this once. Also that the orig oil is not available in Aust and only replacing 50% when the plug is pulled, then refilling with a different brand and grade, but approved, leaves me a little limp. But if I do this twice I will get 75% of the oil replaced which is not too bad, I suppose.
Another thing, my father said no to me as a kid so I will always look for another alternative around the said issue. Also my knowledge of auto boxes is minimal. Google is Great.

Cheers.

Originally Posted by John L322

Daniel,
Myself not being from a mechanical background but from the 'couldn't afford mechanic rates' as a young bloke but still enjoys tinkering, much to the SWMBO distaste would like more info if you have the time.
The system is pressure regulated with max pressure at start up to lubricate the clutches of the TCC etc. After initial start up and max pressure achieved and lubricated clutches, the ECU then dirverts some of this pressure through relief valves.
As long as there is oil in the pan to feed on I don't see the problem. How did the oil get there at the factory on initial build?
The fact I'm a tight bastard, with time and money, only want to do this once. Also that the orig oil is not available in Aust and only replacing 50% when the plug is pulled, then refilling with a different brand and grade, but approved, leaves me a little limp. But if I do this twice I will get 75% of the oil replaced which is not too bad, I suppose.
Another thing, my father said no to me as a kid so I will always look for another alternative around the said issue. Also my knowledge of auto boxes is minimal. Google is Great.

Cheers.

No need to explain - I have never paid a mechanic to do anything yet - we all live and learn.

My last experience with an auto tranny (GM T700) was when it was rebuilt and I filled it to the brim (12 litres) took it for a test drive, went OK, then reverse back into the garage up a slight ramp, felt a little slippage, stopped topped up with another 6 litres. I then went to drive it and had no drive - another rebuild was necessary.

The oil companies made a lot of noise in the 1980s about never mixing different brands of lubricants etc - most of that advice is simply marketing nonsense. Very similar to the more recent marketing nonsense that we continually get bombarded with - "drinking red wine being good for you".

Doing a second ATF change will not get you 75%. It much more like 60%.
Once again the aim of the filter & ATF change is to remove contaminants and any dumping of the old ATF will achieve that.

I researched the ATF specs a couple of years ago, purchased the Valvoline ATF and imported filter kits from USA but have still not got around to doing it.
My L322 is 2005 with 170k km. I do a lot of 3 tonne towing and use lo range just about every time I leave home as I have 15 km of mountainous tracks to traverse.

I don't know what problems others have with their L322 td6 transmissions but mine is still as new.

Factory installs of transmissions are done with pressure fill of ATF etc so there is never anything started "dry". Also transmissions are assembled with special lubricant on all relevant components. Local mechanics use vaseline (and lots of it) for that purpose.

Daniel,
Thankyou for your most candid reply which carries much more weight. The L322 I have recently purchased is a 2002 HSE TD6 with 245K on the clock and I intend to tow with it. Low range shifts on the fly is a god send. A must. I would just like to see the condition of the box for insurance so I will do the simpler option and drop the pan etc. At the moment all is OK with the box and vehicle in general.
Don't know if I agree with the red wine bit being marketing nonsense as I'm still doing the research on this.
I will post again when I drop the pan and have a look.

Seasons greetings to all.