L322 Trailer Light Electrics

Thanks Harlie

My different interpretation of the ARD rule

Gary

Hey Iain,

Hope you are doing well. As Im doing more research I see that I seem to be following your footsteps. I also got the Traxide isolator, and looking at a Yellowtop battery. However, with 55Ah, and just half of that as usable capacity I'm wondering if that's the way to go.
What do you have hooked up to your battery, is it just your radios? Do you know if Traxide works with Lithium batteries?
Lastly, how do you have your radios mounted? Would you mind sharing some pictures? Thank you in advance

Regards,
Michal
KD2KBH

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RangieBit

G'day RM,

If you can't see a big old fashioned round 7 pin plug (usually toward the passenger side) when you look at the rear of the vehicle then it's possibly a good sign that the towing pack was never fitted.

Next thing is to open the cover over the rear fuse box (drivers side rear in the cargo area). There is an additional little box in there. Refer attached pic.

If it doesn't have this box of electronic wizardy then it's about $600 to obtain and fit. This device is so that the car computers know that there is a trailer attached and don't attempt to do silly things, like alter the height of the vehicle during travel, and other more mundane things.

HTH. Cheers,
Iain

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Hi Michal, and with the TRAXIDE DT90 isolator and an Optima D34 Yellowtop, you have over 90Ah available, and if you set the DT90 accessories Cut-Out from 11.6v to 10.5v ( which you can safely do with the Yellowtop ), you will have in access of 100Ah available.

Next, contrary to some of the misleading advertising used to sell Lithium batteries, they are NOT drop-in replacements for AGM batteries.

They can not be used in a system that has a conventional isolator, because the higher settled voltage of a lithium battery means the voltage at the isolator is actually higher than the "Turn-On" setting, so the isolator will only turn off if the lithium battery goes flat.

You must fit a DC-DC device to be able to charge the Lithium and to separate the lithium battery from the cranking battery when the motor is off.

This also means you will need at least a 100Ah to a 120Ah lithium battery to be able to have the same amount of usable accessories battery capacity, to equal what the TRAXIDE system gives you with just a 55Ah Optima.

And the disadvantages don’t end there.

With the TRAXIDE system, if you have been camping and you have discharged both batteries down to their limit, a one hour drive will have both batteries back up around 95%, but because a DC-DC device is much slower to recharge ANY battery, you will need to drive for 4 to 6 hours to replace the same amount of used battery capacity.

Hello Michal,

I have a 100AH AGM in the right rear spot. It required the removal of the rear edge from the surrounding plastic panel and the wiring harness that was laid across the bottom to be lifted clear of the battery.
I have an Icom 7100 mounted on the back of the nearby rear seat with the cable to the head unit laid above the rear footwell carpet but under the rubber mat.