Thread: Transfer case issues

The shift motor is a fairly common issue in these. I would first be asking them to make sure they know which part they need, rather than guessing. There is no way I would cough up for a part that 'May' be the right one....

There are a few 'How to' vids on YouTube that show how to test the motors.

$800 for the motor doesn't sound too bad - I've just had a look and they are about the £600 mark in the UK.

Hope you get it sorted - Gav.

Edit - there is also a known issue with the potentiometer on the motor which is/has not been available separately. There is someone that was developing an aftermarket unit to fix this issue, but I can't recall the details. There was a thread on Fullfatrr at some stage about it.

Check this thread - http://www.fullfatrr.com/forum/topic...+potentiometer

And this one... http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-r...gyrogypsy.html

Looks like these will be available soonish - within a month or two by the looks of it. I think it would be worthwhile bench testing the motor and pot - both easy tests to do.

I have attempted to reply to this thread a couple of times so sorry if this is a triple up on your end but i don't seem to see anything...

Just noting that they believe the problem to be both the "Transfer case Motor" and the "Transfer Case Module (ECU)" their total price for these parts is close to $4,000 a quick look online and i could have these parts for around $1,000

If i was to replace these two items myself as the manual part looks reasonably easy on both counts yet my only concern is that one is an ECU and may need syncing with my vehicle? Is this the manual process for syncing a transfer case ECU module? (scroll to the bottom of the page)

Transfer shift motor causing Trans failsafe prog? - Page 2

Other then this a nice $1,740 bill is waiting for me after they did a service, replaced handbrake pads, adjusted the headlights and fixed the negative battery terminal.

James.

Not sure about syncing the ecu back to the car, but both parts are easy to fit. I would do one at a time, and see what you get out of it. If the ecu is a straight swap, can you find someone to play swaps with for 5 minutes to confirm this part of the diagnosis?

I would be more tempted to change the actuator first as it has been stated that the actuators fault is what has caused the ECU to burn out so I don't want to change the ECU only to have the replacement unit get burnt out also.

Who would be best to contact in regards to the ECU replacement?

James.

Well after 1 week waiting for the Range Rover back from the workshop and then another 19 days waiting on parts... i finally put the new Actuator motor and ECU in the car...

Only to find it is still stuck in low range so i am suspecting i am required to get the new ECU programed to the car for them to talk... is there any manual way of doing this?

James.

James
Try this ! it is usally used when replacing just the shift motor, but might also work for you as the ECU should have been identified when it first powered up.

From RRPhil UK

Fit fuse in position 37 in the main fuse box.

With auto in neutral; switch ignition on.

Switch ignition off.

Remove fuse from position 37.

Switch ignition on.

Operate switch to perform high to low shift and back to high again.

Drive vehicle to perform at least 3 high to low to high shift cycles at permissable speeds above 10k/mh.

Good Luck
Laurie

I have seen one (that Spudboy now owns) have a wiring fault to the shift motor. One of the wires in a multiplug wasn't crimped properly and the vehicle would sometimes go into limp home mode. A new loom fixed the problem.