TD6 Turbo Replacement

In regards to the mentioned whistling, you will notice the difference :D

All turbo's create a high frequency turbo whistle,
"whistle is the turbo working to build boost" some manufacturers and vehicle makers place a silence ring to reduce this whistle. See below

On a previous vehicle, the whistling got louder and very noticeable. On checking it was found that the inlet manifold was loose and the turbo boost was causing it to leak. Also remember the your wastegate will also cause a whistle especially if dirty or a vacuum line is leaking. You've all heard those rice burners with the "pop off valves" when they change gears, all they are doing is using the excess air pressure that is usually vented by the wastegate to create a louder sound :twisted:
So if you have a noticeable change in your turbo whistle, check all the air flow areas ( including air-filter box ) to make sure there sealed first, then start looking at the turbo

Laurie

Our TD6 turbo's don't have a waste gate as such... the maximum boost that can be achieved is controlled by the vnt system

Frequent oil changes are the key to long turbo life :), and well not shutting the engine down immediately when you have just climbed a hill etc



Dave

I can confirm that a split inter cooler makes a very loud whistling sound...:D. And results in no power, black smoke and high fuel usage...

Ask me how I know...

Gav.

So I thought I'd revive this old thread as I think I'm about to become an expert in TD6 turbo replacement. Power has been going own steadily for the last couple of weeks and I have a new high pitched turbo whistle that it has never had before. Just checked over all thevpipework and there is no obvious splits or anything and they all seemed to be in good condition when I replaced the intercooler 6 months ago. I pulled the hoses off the intercooler and there is a fair bit of oil in there now - I know they all pass a bit, but this is significant.

So, looks like I have a fun time ahead. Pity as well, as we were about to sell it. Looks like that will be put back a bit now.:(

Funnily enough, the turbo is about the only thing I haven't replaced that could be considered something that wouldn't last the life of the vehicle.

Oh well, back to the tools...

Well, despite it being theoretically possible to remove from under the vehicle, I opted for the long way - removing everything off the top so I can get better access to it. Not a difficult or time consuming job UNLESS you find a stuck injector.... guess what - I did.

Looks like I'm going for a drive in the morning to get a very small torx socket which I need to pull the injector studs up to free said injector.

Hopefully will have it in my hot little hand tomorrow so then I can find out if a rebuild kit is available for it, and if my mate can install said kit or if I'm going to have to pay a professional to do it.

Anyone know the make/model/part number for this turbo?

spray inox or similar around the injector and let soak in. These have a very bad habit of being very stuck and you will not get it out. Don't rely on the stud to get them out
I had a TD4 that had failed injector and could not get 2 of them out. It went very pear shaped, Had to cut rocker cover off and used stiltons on the injector and in the end the injector pulled the tread where the nozzle screws on. I got the nozzle out but had to remove the head and get the nozzle nut machined out.

There is a puller for the job but is very expensive when I looked into it +$600
http://www.klann-online.de/portals/0..._klann_6e1.pdf

I found this while looking for the puller. If you use let us know if it works using vinegar.
Diesel Injector Removal - Any experience? - Page 2 - The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums

Yeah, I poured a heap of Penetrene down there before giving up for the night. I haven't even had a chance to use the studs to try and back the injector out yet, as I can't get the bloody things loose.:mad:

All the others are out, and the studs undone with a 10mm deep socket, but I don't have anything to fit the torx on the top of the stud. I think if I can get the studs loose, I should be right. There is slight movement of the injector, but as you know there is nothing to lever off and I don't want to break the cover, so I haven't been trying too hard.

See what tomorrow brings.:)

Gav
Sometimes that high pitched whistle is the inlet manifold loosing air under turbo pressure, due to a leaky gasket or loose manifold bolts. I had this on a previous vehicle, easy fix after a few heart palpitations.
I'm sure the genuine turbo is a Garrett anyway some many good local repairers available if needed. :D

Laurie

Thanks, I can check all that once I get the last cover off. It certainly isn't any of the pipes or intercooler. Judging by the amount of oil in the intercooler, I'm guessing the turbo.

Mine similarly; considerable whistling under acceleration.
Now done 235,000km.
It has minimal slop in compressor end so will leave well enough alone.

Have had Mitsubishi 3.3 turbo in 1985 RR; no whistle .

Had 300TDI in '93RR; slight whistle and that turbo was rebuilt with all new bearings and shaft.
Had TD5 in '94 RR; slight whistle; even after 160,000km.
Lots big trucks whistle so much the girls look around! and they aren't exactly high revving?
I can recall Ray Hall (Turbos) in Cairns telling me years ago that whistling of turbos is not usually a sign of wear, but varies from case to case; that there was no rhyme or reason to it; same make/model/setup, that whistling can vary from car to car.

So real way to determine wear is take off air in hose and feel side play of shaft/ compressor wheel. Plain bearing ones (RR) all have some; ball bearing ones very little/almost discernable.