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Thread: 2002 L322 SQUEAKY REAR SUSPENSION

  1. #11
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    Fitting new bushings (Rear ball joints)

    Today I made a start on fitting new rear outer bushings (or ball joints according to Land Rover) on my L322.
    Sometime back I purchased a spare top and bottom bushing plus a "Laser Rear Suspension Bush Tool 5977"
    You will find these for sale online
    Now I did think that this tool I purchased did both top and bottom but it only does the bottom so I have also ordered their 5978 tool which will do the top bushing.
    The advantage of this tool (or tools) is that I do not need to remove the axle nut, brake disc and backing plate.
    To do the bottom bush I did remove the tie-rod and of course the brake caliper complete with bracket but left everything else in place.
    Removed the through bolt from bottom bushing, circlip from bushing and fitted the Laser tool (Laser in brand only. Nothing to do with a laser).
    Minutes to remove the old bushing and fit the new one from that stage.
    Next one will be quicker of course now that I have a plan of action.
    Having fitted the new bottom bush the top will be even easier so these tools are really good (in my humble opinion of course)
    Will I ever need them again? Probably not so PM me if I can assist a fellow owner.
    The tools do for L322 RR Sport and Disco 3 & 4

    BTW: there were two stands under the car. Not just the jack
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #12
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    Top bush replaced in minutes

    My new tool from Laser Tools arrived today and 15 minutes later the old top bush was out and the new one in.
    Hub, axle, brakes all left in place. Pic attached.

    One thing that will be of interest: I removed the seals from both old bushings to get a clear inspection of them. The top one still has good grease in it and was in quite reasonable condition. The bottom one was a different story as the grease or what might have once been grease was unlike any old grease I have ever seen. It was almost "stone" like and when I washed all internals of the bush it was clearly toast with significant wear. Injecting grease as some others have done was never going to fix this. IMO: Replace them!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by uteman; 8th January 2018 at 06:52 PM. Reason: Spelling error

  3. #13
    p38arover's Avatar
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    Were they expensive? Yes, a stupid question - all special tools are.

    I'd be very interested in hiring these.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  4. #14
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    Price of tools etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    Were they expensive? Yes, a stupid question - all special tools are.

    I'd be very interested in hiring these.
    The tool for top bush cost me around AUD150 with postage from UK. (Although you could add AUD20 as I paid for express delivery)
    This tool seems to be peculiar to L322
    The tool for the bottom bush was if i recall correctly around AUD180.
    However that tool does for L322 from 2003 to 2012, Disco 3, Disco 4 & RR Sport

    Having these tools allowed me to get on with the job without having to remove the hub, jury rig fittings, ask a mate to machine something for me and/or to ask someone to loan me their press.
    I am a mechanic by trade and believe in the right tool for the job and if that right tool simplifies the job as these did then that is a great bonus.
    PM me if you want anything further

  5. #15
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    Which bushings are toast!

    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    The upper ones on mine look OK. I tried injecting grease but it made no difference.

    I really need to get it onto a hoist to hunt down the source of the squeak.
    Having replaced both bushings on right and left side then removed the rubber seals from old bushings I can say that the bottom bushes were very worn and any grease that may have been in them was completely dried out looking more like sand.
    The top bushings still had fairly good grease in them and were not nearly as worn as the bottom but why not replace all?
    Having replaced all front ball joints and bushings a few months back I was disappointed that the car still seemed noisy on bumps even on a reasonable road surface.
    It is now as quiet as the day that we collected it from the dealer in 2003

    OH and it almost goes without saying that there are no squeaks.
    Injecting grease will not fix the issue. There is wear!

  6. #16
    p38arover's Avatar
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    Thanks for that good info. I will do both top and bottom, both sides, then get a camber adjustment. My L322 has just over 200K on the clock.

    I have a lathe but I'm no expert machinist and I'm a lousy welder. I could probably fabricate something.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  7. #17
    p38arover's Avatar
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    I'm ordering the bushes tomorrow.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  8. #18
    p38arover's Avatar
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    We replaced the rear upper and lower bushes last Monday using the tools hired from uteman (thanks Ray).

    Before we started.



    Marked to get the eccentric washer back in approximately the right place. (The car had a wheel alignment done today.)



    Quite easy when one uses the right tools and have access to a hoist. I used the LaserTools Rear Suspension Bush Tool -Land Rover | Part No. 5977
    and
    Rear Suspension Bush Tool - Range Rover | Part No. 5978





    The bushes had little to no radial play but quite a bit of axial play, especially the left lower where the play was about 1.5mm. The grease was old and hard and there was a bit of rust in the joint.

    The left lower also has two pieces of thin plastic (nylon?) jutting out of it. I assume they were/are the bearing surfaces. As noted above, the "bushes" are Heim/Rose Joints.



    and clean upper joint:



    Cost $219 (I think, I can't find the invoice) for the parts (incl. post) from Mario.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  9. #19
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    Coincidentally, my rear suspension started making nasty squeaking noises just a week ago. It’s now starting to startle pedestrians.
    Question - the workshop manual suggests removing the caliper and rotor to get to the lower knuckle joint. Can I confirm that this is not necessary?
    Thanks for the guides.

  10. #20
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    So I refreshed the rear suspension on the weekend. I changed the lower wishbone inner bushes, tie rod, stabiliser bar link upper and lower rose joints. For the bushes and rose joints, I used a relatively cheap bush pressing set which I bought from eBay in the US for USD$126. I have now replaced every single suspension bush in the car using this set, front and back, except for the rear upper inner bushes. For the rear lower rose joint, I ground the relevant press ‘cup’ to provide clearance to the brake dust cover. I did not have to remove the brake caliper or rotor as suggested in the manual.

    When removing the rear lower wishbones, make sure you fully depressurise the air springs including cracking open the rear airlines from the rear valve block under the right hand wheel arch.


    New parts


    plus Universal Press Pull Sleeve Kit Bush Bearing Removal Insertion Tool Set






    results in suspension as good as new

    No more squeaky rear suspension.

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