Thread: Coolant level sensor

Did you loosen the air bleed next to the filler cap atop the expansion tank?

Gav, I'm not 100% sure, but I vaguely remember reading that some coolants, or if not mixed strong enough, will trigger the warning. I **think** its located on the bottle you add the coolant into, and I'm guessing it works on conductivity (like two probes) and I guess some coolant conducts more/less than others?
I have a low coolant come up after prolonged high (2000+) revs all the time, but the level is fine. I'm running red OAT - can't remember the brand, but it was supposed to be good for 5 years....
Maybe I need to look at mine too and modify it to be less sensitive (i.e lengthen the probes or bend them down)

one day....when I've got nothing to do!

Fraser

Originally Posted by RR P38

Did you loosen the air bleed next to the filler cap atop the expansion tank?

Yep, got plenty of air out of it and I've put the same amount of coolant back in as I got out. The reservoir is full, it sits on the right temp while driving, I just get a low coolant alarm up constantly.

Originally Posted by fraser130

Gav, I'm not 100% sure, but I vaguely remember reading that some coolants, or if not mixed strong enough, will trigger the warning. I **think** its located on the bottle you add the coolant into, and I'm guessing it works on conductivity (like two probes) and I guess some coolant conducts more/less than others?
I have a low coolant come up after prolonged high (2000+) revs all the time, but the level is fine. I'm running red OAT - can't remember the brand, but it was supposed to be good for 5 years....
Maybe I need to look at mine too and modify it to be less sensitive (i.e lengthen the probes or bend them down)

one day....when I've got nothing to do!

Fraser

That makes me feel a bit better. I'm using Techalloy Gold - it had a similar green coolant in it - brand unknown, but it was put in by the stealers during a service just before I got it - it is listed on a service in the log book, so replacing like for like. I drained around 10 litres out of it, and put in the correct amount of concentrate for that - topped it up with 2 x 4 ltr and almost 1 x 2 ltr demineralised water bottles.

I didn't see any wires running to the reservoir at all, so I thought the sensor may be somewhere else...

I just read on RRnet that the specific gravity of the coolant may affect the coolant sensor.
Another "quirk"?

They are in the bottle, and they need to have they correct amount of coolant in them. I haven't tried different brands of coolant in them, (as I had only worked on them when they were new) We always used the genuine coolant which was a blue coolant from BMW.

Originally Posted by fraser130

I just read on RRnet that the specific gravity of the coolant may affect the coolant sensor.
Another "quirk"?

Did it say what the SG was supposed to be? I have a refractometer somewhere, I could check and adjust as required if I knew which way I had to go.

Originally Posted by woko

They are in the bottle, and they need to have they correct amount of coolant in them. I haven't tried different brands of coolant in them, (as I had only worked on them when they were new) We always used the genuine coolant which was a blue coolant from BMW.

Thanks - seems strange the LR Dealer that used to look after this car from day one had used green coolant in it at its last scheduled change.

Don't want to open another red versus green argument here, but which way should I go? Or go to the stealers and take it up the arse and buy genuine coolant?

Originally Posted by bacicat

Did it say what the SG was supposed to be? I have a refractometer somewhere, I could check and adjust as required if I knew which way I had to go.



Thanks - seems strange the LR Dealer that used to look after this car from day one had used green coolant in it at its last scheduled change.

Don't want to open another red versus green argument here, but which way should I go? Or go to the stealers and take it up the arse and buy genuine coolant?

Gav, my understanding is copper rad, iron engine / alloy engine, copper rad = Glycol based, all alloy engine, alloy rad = OAT

Have a look at RRnet for info (although not a great help) Here

Fraser