Originally Posted by
harlie
Yep, I have my car :D
The summarised list starting with pressure specific rectification:
• Machine bell housing surfaces & Machine front pump assembly (specialist #1 outsource)
• Machine valve body & fit sleave kit, valves (specialist #2 outsource) – aka valve body sonnax treatment
• Machine Front pump & fit regulator valve kit (specialist #2 outsource) – aka pressure pump sonnax treatment
• New pressure control solenoid
And continue with
• Overall kit (seals/gaskets ect)
• Bush kit
• Full set of clutch frictions (one was worn the rest looked perfect)
• Clutch piston kit (the old pistons had hard rings/seals – apparently they are not repairable?)
• Filter (his price for a filter kit makes me cry)
• Flush the lines & cooler
• Fluid
• Torque converter overhaul, modification and clutch replacement (specialist #3 outsource)
I felt a couple of gear changes early on but it has smoothed out entirely over the afternoon, the ECU will be learning how to make shifts smooth in the new environment, according to the manual it can take a few days.
Couple points of interest.
I used my torque converter; it is definitely different to the early models. It now has a quality clutch in there (original had heaps of life left after 183k) and the stall speed has been adjusted down – who knew they could do that?? Apparently I'm the first 5L40 to ask for it. Answer - no worries. He says he wants feed back next week...
*** I can’t recommend the stall speed modification enough – it is beautiful and only cost $80. It is a subtle change that brings the revs down across the throttle range, and encourages earlier up shifts (I assume due to in and out shaft speeds being closer). I have spent the afternoon keeping up with city traffic and it didn’t go over 2500rpm, only went close a few times in the first 2 gears on a hill where it went to 24-25. Once moving (over 25-30kph) it likes to run between 1900 and 2200 no mater what hill you give it.
update: give it the beans on the freeway on ramp - pulls like a train @2800-2900
I don’t know the exact stall speed (won’t be as low as Don’s 2600 - at a guess about 3000), don’t know the factory either – I asked for 10-15% reduction, apparently they work off %reduction for modifications.
as a side note - mr blaster's (melbourne) super special heavy duty torque converter is actually your old converter (or an exchange) with a heavier clutch fitted. Which is pretty much what I have... The $absurd goes up if your old converter is buggered. I am sure this is why the 2 repairers were not really interested in it - they already know this, my guy was questioning his features list.... I called, he got very squirmy when I started pushing for details, by this time I had seen the inside of mine
It now has a different fluid – it is not GM licensed DXvi. When i asked the logic for this, he said that the full synthetic gives better pressure performance and life and we are no longer restricted to DXvi (for wear issues) because it isn’t really a GM box anymore. Fluid is Penrite AFT FS – which is good for future services as its double the price:( - He did stress, you must use the licensed stuff prior to sleaving all the bits that wear.
As mentioned earlier according to various sources my 2004 should have an upgraded transmission? Not sure, other than the TC.
Is it a 5L50E in disguise? No, definitely not!