Thanks Harlie. Great summary, much appreciated.
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Thanks Harlie. Great summary, much appreciated.
My TD6 is the first one in the country. It had trans failure at 180K, and a reco unit was fitted.
I noticed at 250K (after having trans serviced twice since buying the car at 190K) that the TC wouldnt stay locked, it would jump up and down in revs all the way upto about 90 k's an hour and then be fine. I took it to several specialists, one who spent time on the valve body, and they all said it was just the TC failing and to replace it as the fluid was still good. So at 250K I replaced the TC. Car drove fine for about 8K then the hunting started again, every 20 seconds or so it would jump. It reached a point where it was not shuddering, but hunting up and down about once every 2 seconds. Again as stated by several in this thread the line pressure was falling and it would loose lockup. Then I lost 5th gear all together.
My auto box was completely rebuilt and now it behaves again just as it did when I first bought it.
On reading Harlie's posts I also had the TC stall RPM lowered, and its great, and I have him and this forum to thank.
I would not buy a car with a reco box from AB automatics in it. Easy to tell, the trans will have their sticker on the side. I will not say anything more publicly.
But when test driving a car, its not just a shudder, but check if it jumps a few hundred RPM every now and again just coasting at 45-80 K an hour on flat roads.
Then again the V8 to me is much nicer to drive, cheaper to buy, but like others, I have heard many stories about cooling issues. If driven kindly they can be very good on the juice, but like all V8's if you drive them with a bit of poke they can be really thirsty as well!
I have a late 02 l322 V8 Vogue 220km. I haven't had any problems I've done 60k's since 2011. Great car. Long term fuel economy is 14.5ltrs/100km's. One thing I have done is installed transmission coolers and service the tranny regularly and the motor every 10k
I was thinking updating but got offered $10K trade in. I will be keeping as parts alot cheaper now.
P.s If you are looking at a V8 make sure the engine has been serviced regularly. If not the oiling system to the timing chain can block causing it to wear out the chain and guides quicker.
After two P38 I just my first L322.
The only Diesel for me would be the V8 but like the SC its out of my price range for now. But then, petrol is cheaper than diesel in Switzerland.
The advice I got from my mechanic was to go for the Jaguar engine. The BMW power plant is not continued and has some high milage issues that are very expensive to repair. The 2006-on Jaguar is the base for all the newer engines including the SC variants and sorted out some of the problems. Against my first thoughts, the 4.2 SC is more reliable in a mechanical way as it doesn't need all the variable stuff like VANS etc.
I choose the 4.4 as the 4.2 SC were overpriced or in really bat shape.
Greetings from Switzerland
Peter
Hi there, did you mechanic elaborate on this at all? Reason I ask is that I have seen high KM examples that still go as well as the day they were made. BMW still build a variant of this engine and most of it is still the same as these earlier engines. I'm sure there are many more examples of these engines in your area, so wondering what sort of issues they are having.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benzinvernichter
Cheers - Gav.:)
yeah, the 4.4bmw engine was not continued in the L322, but it lived on in many other BMWs - there is a hell of a lot more bmw v8s running around in the world than there is Jag v8s. This has got to be the first time I've seen someone say buy a Jag instead of a BMW:p.
I'd buy a jag, just love that XF, and I could say to my wife, "lets take the jag"
I'm looking for some info from the Range Rover L322 gurus.
After reading Greg Milner's thread about shock failure, I was wondering if the TD6 L322s had standard type front and rear shocks? If remote touring I would like the option to fit a similar shock from another car like a Patrol, Cruiser etc until the correct spec shock can be fitted. Also, is the front and rear shock outside or separate from the air bag suspension (i.e. can the shock be changed without removing the airbag suspension)?
Does TR make a D3 TDV6 a better off road vehicle compared to TD6 L322 with TC?
Overall how do owners find a L322 as a touring vehicle? I will probably fit a roof rack with a RTT. I think I would need to put the spare on the roof rack so I could fit a draw system in the back.
How is the TD6 L322 for electrical gremlins? It seems to fit together well.
Apart from LR maybe doing a better job on the GM 5 speed transmission, is there much difference between a 2002 and 2004/5 TD6 L322? Also, there doesn't seem to be a 04MY Range Rover, is that correct? It seems to jump from 03MY to 05MY. Should I expect reliability from a low km 2002 TD6 L322 with a good service history, or am I being unrealistic given its age?
Thanks.
As far as the shocks go....carry a spare for your vehicle. the front is a mcpherson type coilover(air bag sleeve) the rear is just an airbag bellow with separate shocks. The fronts you can only get as a complete assembly (Bags and all) and if you want one in Aus it will cost you around $1g for one, but with time up your sleeve you can get a set in from the uk for under that (What Im going thru now). The good news is, I have managed to get it sitting level at normal height with one blown bag and could still drive it the 300km home.Quote:
Originally Posted by rar110
as for electrical gremlins, I havent come across any yet. Not saying there isnt any but I wash my L322 quite vigorously with the pressure washer and have done a river crossing or 2 at bonnet height and haven't had an issue.
You cannot fit shocks for a cruiser ect unless you get rid of the air suspension. By nature, air springs are very different to coil, mainly, there is no resistance on the expansion stroke, An air spring will continue to expand at the same rate until something prevents it (car weight, shock resistance or end stop) or it blows off the piston. As interest, Scania actually had chains on the drive axles a while ago to limit the travel… Shocks to go with air springs are valved completely differently to those for steel springs – IMO air systems are harder on shocks. The shock will not suffer as much with 18inch wheels, but if you are really worried, go buy a Nissan and complain when its shock fails… I worked with heavy vehicle air system during the 90s (electronic system development for the early fully electronic systems on trucks), there is a lot of air suspension covering a lot of bad roads in this country. Is it interesting that Greg’s story contains 1 failure, I’m thinking if there is an inherit issue, all would have failed. Admittedly the fronts are not easy to carry as spares, and a bit inconvenient to change
The rear shock is beside the bag, front is a strut assembly with the airbag, so the entire airspring/strut has to be changed, they are not light or small and L is different to R.
One of the complaints from some owners of old rangies is how crappy they ride – a lot of these then discover they have shocks for coils, as most don’t realise there is 2 versions available and the coil is usually sold through discount crap auto suppliers.
Does TR make it better – no. My brother has a D3, it is no better off road, not as nice on road and has a lot less space. All the functionality of TR is available in the early L322 it just has a couple of separate switches (and your brain) instead of a single dial. TR will also be much harder to fix if it plays up (just ask poor old drivesafe).
I love it as a touring car, simply the most comfortable vehicle to eat the miles away, more comfortable than the D3, much more comfortable than mate’s 2010 toureg. It is however not without it downsides. For example I hate the split tail gate, it is simply stupid – I’m 6’3 and I can’t reach items that are against the seat (when the tailgate is down you need to reach over it aswell as the length of the loadspace., my wife needs a ladder. However, look under the bonnet of a TD6, when is the last time you saw an engine bay with so much space - I can actually work in there...
Only electrical gremlin I’ve had is a short in the speaker for the front parking sensors (it was faintly squarking), which was an easy fix. You will need a diagnostic kit if you plan on DIY repairs/servicing.
Yes there officially was no MY04, only minor differences between the 02 and 05 – maybe some updates in the box which is supposed to be about march ’04 – not convinced it will save it though. However, 06 (with newer headlights) received a few updates.
Like all older cars, if it is looked after and YOU know what you are dealing with, I can't see a problem. I'm keeping mine for many years to come.
Drawers. I'm thinking about building something that can be removed relatively easy. I've not had to get the spare tyre out for either car in nearly 18 years, so I can't see it being a regular event and I'm happy to have it where it is, even if it is a bit of a pain to get too. When we do a trip like Birdsville, I carry a 2nd spare on the camper, I’ve not need to access the 1st under the floor yet. When I do it will be a pain, but it is there to get me to the next town. You need to be able to access the compressor if needed anyway – I’m interested to see what you come up with.
thanks very much for the detailed replies. That clarifies a few points.
So it sounds like for something like a Gibb River Rd trip in even an early L322 I would need to carry two rear shocks as spares as different part numbers.
For a long trip I would take out the spare and keep it on the roof. I had thoughts of a wide draw which when removed would allow access to the wheel well. I might need to make a different cargo area floor with a removable hatch The draw system would be engel on the left, water jerry slide out draw in the middle (2 or 3 jerries), and stack of two draws to the right for cooking utensils and food. Ive read the depth of the cargo space is 1080mm (at floor), which will only allow 2 jerries.