Not sure they're unrelated Graeme. Chief tech told me if there's any kind of engine systems fault, the cruise control spits the dummy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
Not sure if that's related to the throttle linkage issue though.
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Not sure they're unrelated Graeme. Chief tech told me if there's any kind of engine systems fault, the cruise control spits the dummy.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
Not sure if that's related to the throttle linkage issue though.
The throttle is a potentiometer set that sends position signals to the ecm. Small movements of the pedal when one of the potentiometer tracks is starting to fail can result in a jerky throttle. Cruise control doesn't use the pedal potentiometer to maintain speed so can't be affected by a faulty track unless the pedal is pressed to accelerate to a speed faster than the CC set-speed causing acceleration can be jerky if still operating in the bad area of the track.
I had a manual TD5 D2 that developed a bad accelerometer track whilst driving around Canberra. The only way to avoid the engine fault was to quickly push the pedal past the bad spot then use CC once over 40 kph, which was a little tricky in Friday afternoon start-stop peak hour traffic.
I'm not surprised that CC wont operate with an engine inlet airflow / pressure plausibility fault which is what I expect the leaking hose was triggering.
Bloody hell Graeme...you really should be setting up an online consultancy for this sort of information. It's way more than one gets for visiting the local dealer. I'd pay!Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
My hand was forced when our 1st D2, a TD5 and the 1st D2 sold by the local country dealer, had a severe driveability issue that the dealer considered was normal and had no interest in doing anything other than standard servicing of new vehicles. I decided to learn about modern engine and other systems controls to avoid being stranded for superficial faults and now have successfully diagnosed and fixed several electronic control problems with my 3.0 D4 along with modifying the behaviour of some other systems in D2 and D3/D4/RRS/RRV vehicles. I've recently determined that the 4.4 TDV8 uses almost identical controls to the 3.0 TDV6 and have no hesitation in purchasing an out of warranty 4.4 TV8 Vogue to maintain myself and to take into remote areas - just waiting a little while in case one with an e-diff becomes available. Indeed the move to a Vogue is to take advantage of more electronic controls - the shocks.
Well that make me feel better about my impending trip :):DQuote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
Perhaps you need to check that I/C hose for an impending split before you go. Restricted performance towing a large van for hundreds of kms would not be my idea of fun.
Gee Graeme, I have had to explain to my wife that you are setting me more chores than her for this Saturday avo!! :D!
Seriously though, will check it and will report back on LLAMS function tomorrow too!
cheers
Chris
I think I might buy a roll of silicone rescue tape for the rear cubby box.
Well you're absolutely correct about the potentiometer issue...that's exactly what happened with mine. I've just got it back from the dealer, apparently all fixed, no more error messages. Mind you, haven't driven it yet :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
A new brake switch (XKB000022) in the spares box could be useful to avoid being subjected to no cruise control or restricted performance if it fails. If away from a dealer it could be changed as the first guess at the cause of such faults. The switch costs approx $30 landed ex UK or around $50 from a local dealer.
D3/D4 brake switches don't last forever so I suspect the same with the L322 version. I consider restricted performance from insignificant faults to be the biggest threat to trouble-free outback travel for the modern LR.