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If it is done on a proper hoist, the car should drive on and no need to be jacked or changed in any way to alter the wheel alignments. all can be accessed from the under side of the car.
There are not to many things that can be changed with this suspension anyway. I had to buy adjustable camber bolts for mine.
for post 2005 L322 and D3/4 you must set it to "tight tolerance mode". It is in the EAS settings. This ensures that the standard height is maintained exactly. VW toureg/Audi Q7 & merc ML are the same; they just have a different name for it.
For the L322 2002-2005 there is no tight tolerance mode for EAS available and the following procedure was provided by the dealer when I acquired mine.
1 Drive onto the alignment hoist/ramp as normal.
2 exit the vehicle while leaving the engine running
3 close all doors
4 fit sensors to wheels (during this time the car will level out without the weight of driver)
5 open drivers' door, reach in, turn engine off and remove key (do not sit in the seat or stand on side steps). Do not close door.
6 Leave drivers' door open during alignment procedure (this is to ensure that the EAS does not move during the procedure) We put a rag in the door to keep it open far enough to have the interior light on.
Several tyre shops I've spoken to said that if they don't do this the customer comes back - I had 2 shops several years ago that wouldn't even touch it because of "the air suspension problems". "must take it to the dealer" Both shops have since followed this simple set of steps and now offer the alignment for other owners with no comebacks.
For the record, the dealer just drives it around the corner to the closest tyre shop and they do the above - for the later models they set it to tight tolerance and then drive it around.
The height lock button only prevents off road or highway heighs being activated, the suspension will still move during the procedure.
Thanks to you all for your input.
After further talks with the local tyre place and his discussion with another of his franchisee colleagues (who do alignments on Discoveries & late model RRs) he assured me he would be able to enter the alignment mode through the OBD using a diagnostic computer.
I took it down today & also asked for the wheels to be balanced. However he had extreme difficulty trying to remove the wheels. It appears they must have been overtightened the previous time the wheels were removed to the extent that one of them could not be removed at all. Apparently the locking nut just spins around in the socket ??
Needless to say just had the three wheels balanced and cancelled the alignment 'til I can get the offending wheel off & subsequently balanced. :(
I can't imagine a spline on a wheel stud being stripped. At least not a vehicle that young.
I'm certainly hoping that you are absolutely correct !Quote:
Originally Posted by rar110
It's no biggy. At worst you'll need a new hub/spindle.Quote:
Originally Posted by austeve01
If the locking nuts are like the D2 locking nuts then bashing on a normal socket of a size that needs to be bashed on usually allows the locking nut to be undone. Obviously a replacement nut needs to be on hand to use when the wrecked one is removed. D2 owners usually got rid of the locking nuts because of the problem of the key in the special nut being so soft.Quote:
Originally Posted by austeve01
Got a picture of the lock nut? If they are the same as the Jag ones I've had to get them off before, not fun but doable...
I assumed they found the locking nut socket in the wheel well, and it was some other reason the wheel couldn't be removed.
Yep. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by rar110