Thread: FFRR - Alternator or battery failure?

So what is happening now?

I was going to suggest you disconnect the alternator but I have no idea if this would cause other unrelated problems.

If you still want to try to drive home, see if there is any problems with disconnecting the positive cable from the alternator but be aware, the cable will be live and will need to be insulated and secured out of the way.

I do not know how to do this, but if it is viable, maybe Graeme can give you some instructions!

I don't know if this vehicle's alternator cable is wired directly from the battery or from the starter motor so can't suggest anything.

It's on a tilt tray heading hm.

Thanks for the suggestion, but I couldn't get a hand to the alternator to confirm the plug was secured.

Another big (330km) tow paid by RACQ. Two big tows in the last 4 mths. Last one was 250 km. Thank you Ultimate care.

Home again. The RRV's reputation with the family has taken a beating.

I put the battery on the smart charger over night. Initially the battery seemed unresponsive and the charger indicated it wasn't charging. I disconnected it this morning after I found it on float mode. This arvo the battery is still holding 13v. I might be lucky and avoided killing the battery.

Glad to see you got home OK. RACQ Ultimate is a prerequisite!

These beasts eat batteries and alternators, we've all been through at least one of each. If you haven't - its inevitable, and the alternators are expensive. I have an alternator sitting here for a spare (sourced from England web at a good price) so I don't have to pay a fortune in an emergency.

I have TWO of those little cigarette lighter V thingo's in my car full time, its great peace of mind. One is in the front where it reads the whole system Voltage (plus the alternator when running), and the one in the back cargo area shows me the voltage of my rear battery connected up with Drivesafes cool piece of hardware connected.

Whenever i go past my car (which sits for a week at a time often) and the rear cargo area LCD is off, I know its low on battery and needs a run.

Originally Posted by CBH25

Glad to see you got home OK. RACQ Ultimate is a prerequisite! These beasts eat batteries and alternators, we've all been through at least one of each. If you haven't - its inevitable, and the alternators are expensive. I have an alternator sitting here for a spare (sourced from England web at a good price) so I don't have to pay a fortune in an emergency. I have TWO of those little cigarette lighter V thingo's in my car full time, its great peace of mind. One is in the front where it reads the whole system Voltage (plus the alternator when running), and the one in the back cargo area shows me the voltage of my rear battery connected up with Drivesafes cool piece of hardware connected. Whenever i go past my car (which sits for a week at a time often) and the rear cargo area LCD is off, I know its low on battery and needs a run.

I've got a Traxide kit on order.

And yes I need to get a voltage monitoring system.

if you know a good electronics wiz...

get one of the tricolour led ones that provides red yellow green get a sparky smarty to mod it so the lights come on at the voltages you want and cut out completely below 11.1 that way when your camping at night you can just look for the right coloured glow.

alternatively I've started recomending the combo usb/voltage indicator units such as
Surface Mount USB Twin AND Volt Meter Caravan 4WD Camper Trailer | eBay for permanant install and

http://www.earlybirdsavings.com/pict...USB-Port-3.jpg

or

http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v2/3...e-shipping.jpg

for temp jobs.

I like the ones with the temp gauge if youre going to put it inside the same box as the battery or inverters so you have a rough idea of the operating temp of the cabinet/battery the extra USB is something to watch as it does draw a fraction of an amp when idle but you can get the permanent mount ones with a switch for the usb.