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Hi Jerry and as above.Quote:
Originally Posted by Road Stone
Get a voltage reading at your battery before you start your motor, then another one after the motor has been running for at least a minute.
If you actually have a low battery, then 13.5v to 13.7v seems a tad low.
sometimes they are less than accurate due to wiring and voltage drop.Quote:
Originally Posted by Road Stone
Well I don't have a multi meter which is the bad news and always relied on my diagnostic machine, when I had D2/3's.
The good news is I'm heading to Brisbane next week so can get one at Bunnings!
Any recommendations? I have no idea how to use one. The next google search!
Cheers, Jerry
Jerry,
Fluke is a premium brand which starts at about $600 from memory. Expensive but will last. Too much for me. I fried my last cheap MM testing amps on the 110. I wouldn't want to accidentally destroy a $600 tool.
I bought a US branded multimeter from Bunnings for about $40. I can't remember the brand name. Not their cheapest, but seemed reasonable quality. I like and use its back light feature so if working in low light I don't need to also to find and hold a torch.
You could also consider a clamp meter which is also a multi meter. Good for finding mystery power leakages. I think a reasonable one starts at about $160 when I was looking.
If you have never owned a multmeter, a cheap clamp meter might be a good idea. They can be found for under $10Quote:
Originally Posted by rar110
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...076979&alt=web
Aaron
Might be a silly question but have you checked the levels in the cells? If down it might be why its not holding charge.
My new Varta 800CCA easily holds 12.6-12.7 even when sitting for a couple of weeks. I replaced the 6 year old original Varta when it wouldn't start after sitting for 2 weeks.
Incidentally you can buy little plug in voltmeters for cigarette plugs for about $15 from Autobarn, Jaycar etc and then watch the readings while driving. Easy solution.
Mine shows the current from the alternator at 14 while driving dropping to 12.6-7 from the battery when stopped.
Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app
I fitted two voltmeters to the old range rover ... one was attached to the battery (measuring the 2nd battery voltage), the other was fitted to the dash wiring. They often showed upto 2volts different with the headlights or fans on ..... There is some serious voltage drop in the wiring in these cars. It would probably pay to fit relays to the headlights and demister fans :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DiscoMick
seeya,
shane l.
PS: What I'm saying is I wouldn't necessarily trust a voltmeter plugged into the cigarette lighter.
If you are using diognostics to measure resting voltage you are really wasting your time. The car is consuming quite a bit of power to give the data feed you are reading (no doubt ignition is on...). IMO 13.6 while running is fine, once again the ECU readout will be down on what would be measured at the battery, especially if the AC is on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Road Stone
The numbers quoted in post #2 in regard to a level of charge is only an indication when measured on a rested battery - at least 2hrs of no load or charge. In the L322 that means disconnected.
Multimeters don't need to cost much, I have a very good one in the garage, and a small jarcar ($30) unit that lives in the car.
Maybe lash out a bit more than this - it doesn't do DC current so useless on vehicles...Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron IIA
I'd like to get a reasonable analogue meter.... You can see voltage fluctuations that way. The cheaper ones these days seem to be complete junk though :(
something like this will probably do everything you really want for automotive work.... And when you fry it tinkering with the amperage setting it wont be the end of the world :)
Low Cost Digital Multimeter (DMM) | Digital | Multimeters | Test & Measurement | PRODUCTS | QM1500 | Jaycar Electronics
at $10 bucks you could afford to leave one in each car.
seeya,
Shane L.