The MY10-12 have what looks to be a 100A supply to the back.
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The MY10-12 have what looks to be a 100A supply to the back.
Thank you Graeme, thank you all. I should stop over-thunking it:-) I'm glad these cars have the smarts to handle all this stuff.
Yep, check under the panel in the back on the drivers side - big thick wire running to a fuse panel - there are several decent fuses back there and depending on spec there may be a spare. There's heaps of room in there for wiring as well as a battery in the compartment below it - an optima yellow top fits. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by justinc
In conjunction with Drivesafes L322 battery isolator he makes as a kit specifically for this vehicle you can't go wrong. :)
Okay, following on from my thread about batteries/alternators et all - you can tell I'm getting ready for a long drive - I want to fit a decent light bar to the front of the car as an anti national emblem device. Given that I don't have anything other than the plastic front bumper, has anyone actually done this and can advise on fitting? Maybe with brackets that poke through the grill?
Oooh! Goodie! I was wondering how to get a heavy cable back there for the second battery.Quote:
Originally Posted by Homestar
Thanks Gav.
Later models (L405) have their batteries in the rear.
I find that my ebay 50W HID (H7) high-beam fill-ins do a very good job for my night road driving with good distance and nearby lighting. The locating tabs on the globes needed to be bent forwards a little to raise the beam as LR had to point the halogens low to be even slightly useful.
So these HID fill ins use the existing light fixtures Graeme, not add-ons?
Don't bother with a light bar, get real lights. I am pretty sure I did an install thread on mine.Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMilner
Edit: I found my thread but all the pics are gone. If you want I can dig them up, or take some more.
😕 Haven't had time to look into many of the useful nooks and crannies at all yet exceptfor the lhs and spare wheel well for water leaks. None to report even after several heavy drenchings so thats a plus. Thanks for the info ☺.Quote:
Originally Posted by Homestar
Jc ☺
Yes. The ballasts take their power directly from the original high beam globe connectors and a hole has to be drilled in the access covers for the wires and grommet as the ballasts are located externally. I already had spare large 50W ballasts (nothing special about them) so just bought a pair of 4300K 50W H7 globes.Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMilner
I would have liked to remove the driver's headlight assembly to make fitting the globe easier due to lack of access behind but even with the grille removed I couldn't free the assembly from behind the bumper. However I have since discovered that removing the air-box is simple so could do that if better access is needed. Don't forget to bend the HID globe's tab forward about 45 degrees to angle the globe to raise the beam.
The conversion dramatically improves the overall light output of the standard headlight assemblies, making the bi-xenons the lesser lights.