Thread: TD6 clonk in frontend

unfortunately...this affects most of us with no clue to what it can be.
mine started 6 months after i got mine, replaced a lot of stuff since then and it has not changed one bit.

TBH I think the cheaper struts that are used to replace have bearing movement. thats my guess

Originally Posted by chaybra

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TBH I think the cheaper struts that are used to replace have bearing movement. thats my guess

That is a very interesting thought. Wonder if it goes on the shock absorber test machine - will we be able to hear it?

I have a couple of old struts, might have to see what holds the bearing together

Mine has produced a clunk from either side over small bumps at slow speed, even when barely moving, from when I bought it at 18K kms so it has the original shocks. However mine had the front-end at least partly dismantled to do the turbo drain fix so a bolt could be loose but on each side? JC suggested the top mount is the usual cause but I haven't yet loosened then re-tightened the nuts to see if there's any improvement. I can't believe that its caused by wear. The rattles disgust me daily.

Have gone through painfully redoing every bolt that's been touched since I've had it (nearly 9 yrs now). No change.

Interesting thing is - it doesn't have any other rattles, only car I've ever owned that hasn't rattled like hell....

Remarkable, I'd come here today to research my front end clonk. I had a dim memory of someone saying they'd fixed theirs. Just had the lower arms done, now i can hear it more clearly...
Mine's most apparent over speed bumps & gutters, one wheel or both makes no difference. I'd wondered about the strut bearings too, that doesn't seem consistent with your 'one wheel over a speed bump doesn't worry it' though Harlie. I'm actually thinking worn rack for my problem. Open to suggestions (and answers from those who've cured theirs!)

I haven't yet checked the steering column joints. I had a rattle in my D4 after a body R&R that I found to be a steering column join bolt not properly torqued.

Gday Harlie

I spoke to Bilstien Australia (Sydney) 3 mths ago about their front struts for the L322, as they are available in UK. The rep told me Bilstien withdrew them from sale here as they didn't suit Australian conditions. Sideways movement resulted in too many failures. So it could be a front strut.

Originally Posted by Strangerover

Remarkable, I'd come here today to research my front end clonk. I had a dim memory of someone saying they'd fixed theirs. Just had the lower arms done, now i can hear it more clearly...
Mine's most apparent over speed bumps & gutters, one wheel or both makes no difference. I'd wondered about the strut bearings too, that doesn't seem consistent with your 'one wheel over a speed bump doesn't worry it' though Harlie. I'm actually thinking worn rack for my problem. Open to suggestions (and answers from those who've cured theirs!)

Check the anti roll bar bushes. They are bonded to the bar, when they wear, they will cause a clonk as the bush is able to rotate a fraction in the clamp. I fixed that one back in 2013ish - it was a different clonk to what I have now, it was easier to pick a side. The easy way to rule out (or confirm) the roll bar bush is to fit a small spacer under the bush so the clamp has more force on it - I used 2mm alloy, stopped the noise for about 3 months - then replaced the bushes.

The suspension shop mentioned that he thought it sounded like it was high up - he started looking at engine mounts, so for me the top of the strut is starting to look good.