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Thread: L322 Rear Tailshaft Removal and Refurbishment

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Sydney
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    Quote Originally Posted by theelms66 View Post
    Have you considered diff pinion bearing?
    I had not actually... The camera in this short was right next to the CV, still very close to the diff...I recorded another one with the camera mounted under the diff right near the input shaft and didn't get any noise, or vibration.

    I do currently get a "binding" sensation from the rear diff when turning full lock in dead ends...

    [Edit - I should add that I changed the diff oil before filming today... It wasn't bad, it was golden, zero anything on the drain plug. Unfortunately I used an oil tray that was already a bit dirty, but I saw nothing shiny/metallic at all. It was mildly golden and I didn't clean the tray out with degreaser afterwards and the garage now smells of diff oil...]

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Hervey Bay
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    Job done

    I received my new propshaft from Hardy Spicer on Friday and fitted it Friday night.

    I had a bit of an exhaust leak anyway so I dropped the exhaust to check it out and get at the propshaft. My old prop shaft CB was toast but the other joints looked and felt fine. The Hardy Spicer doesn't come with the rear CV studs fitted, but they knock out and in the new CV easily enough. It was a lot easier than I expected with the hardest part was refitting the exhaust by myself just because it's pretty heavy.

    The shudder when accelerating has gone as has the exhaust leak, so all is good. Well it was for about 2km then the brake pad warning came on, so pads are next.
    04 L322 Vogue V8 - Work truck
    07 Freelander 2 TD4 SE - The wifes
    74 Leyland P76 Targa Florio - Aspen Green
    91 Kawasaki GPZ900R


    Previous LRs = 78IIa series - 81, 93, 95 RRC - D2V8

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Sydney
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    Nice one. After I spent some time videoing under the car (which produces a very interesting view of the car for sure!) I'm fairly certain the rear CV or the Uni is toast... The Uni is very smooth out of the car, but maybe under load it's binding, likewise the rear CV... Not sure yet.

    I'm fairly confident the issue is the driveshaft CV.

    So, I ordered a new tailshaft! Had to negotiate HS down... He said he'd do it for 1200... I'm the end he did it for $870, so it's worth trying to get it down.

    It's actually a very easy job, I did it over the kerb/dip in the drive with suspension on full height, just chucked a couple stands under the car as the air suspension can have a mind of its own sometimes.

    Once mine arrives I'll swap it over and hope that I was right... The videos I got indicated both rear wheels/driveshafts are not vibrating, confirmed (when mounted to the diff housing itself) that the diff wasn't vibrating and videoed the propshaft rear half clicking and vibrating... So I'm fairly confident...

    Good that yours is done and working now, this is the last mechanical thing I need to sort (for now)

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Sydney
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    Quote Originally Posted by FisherX View Post
    I received my new propshaft from Hardy Spicer on Friday and fitted it Friday night.

    I had a bit of an exhaust leak anyway so I dropped the exhaust to check it out and get at the propshaft. My old prop shaft CB was toast but the other joints looked and felt fine. The Hardy Spicer doesn't come with the rear CV studs fitted, but they knock out and in the new CV easily enough. It was a lot easier than I expected with the hardest part was refitting the exhaust by myself just because it's pretty heavy.

    The shudder when accelerating has gone as has the exhaust leak, so all is good. Well it was for about 2km then the brake pad warning came on, so pads are next.
    My shaft arrived today and the CVs on this new one feel very "firm", my old ones were much "looser" feeling and definitely bind. These ones, while "firm" or "tight" are smooth.

    Might try and put it in tonight! Gonna be an easy job second time round.

    Will also check / feel diff (jack one wheel off ground and spin diff without tailshaft in).


    [Edit:

    And done. In and feels good! Took it on a 30min drive and definitely sorted now. We end up on the freeway quite a bit and that's where it's definitely obvious (and also taking off from lights, etc) and it seems smooth now.

    The old CV's definitely bind, even after having them repacked.

    I removed the rear heat shield only, left full exhaust in. The heat shield is very easy to manipulate and re-manipulate back into the right shape.

    As this is my second time doing this it was done in about an hour, including checking the diff (spinning wheel in the air). I did it over the dip in the driveway/gutter with the car on full height and some stands underneath just in case... Plenty of room!]

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