Fantastic.
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Fantastic.
Yes, I'm amused that I can detect the difference whilst not in extreme conditions. I recall noting the L322 feeling loose in such conditions when first driving it compared with the D4 but with different suspensions the difference could not conclusively be attributed to the lack of an e-diff.
The car has had intermittent EPB electrical issues for the last year or 2 which seemed to be cured by refitting the EPB plug but only for a while after which different DTCs occured, including U0417-81 (AF) from the CCM module (? - the 4.4 TDV8's PCM handles CC) that prevented the use of cruise control. The latest faults only occurred after wake-up so a restart was necessary to use CC. I removed the plug again today after having done so a week ago and spotted a very short section of chaffed wire. I hadn't inserted the harness restraining fitting to its hole when I fitted the e-diff 8+ years ago so this wire had rubbed on the subframe. I had fitted the restraining fitting a week ago to avoid possible future problems, but a few years too late. The wire is the status wire.
Hi Graeme - this is an incredible undertaking! The rear diff lock is the one feature motivating me to look at other vehicles. I have a 2012 HSE w/o locker and my father has the same exact model with it optioned (a unicorn 5.0 NA, not SC, with the optioned rear locker). When we off-road together, he walks up obstacles much easier than mine despite me having fitted 275 65 18 BFG KO2s… (FYI did the Terrafirma wheel adapters and refinished LR3 18” wheels)
If I could retrofit a locker then I think I would keep this vehicle forever. I’ve found a salvage yard here in the US that is selling good order rear lockers with the 3.54 gear set from 2010-2012 models, however, I would also need to acquire the RDCU and requisite wiring.
Do you perhaps have a list of all of the parts I would need to transfer from a salvaged L322 2010-2012 with rear locker to my vehicle? I assume it is more than just the diff, diff motor (which is coming on the diff already), RDCU, and wiring into the RDCU and out to the diff…
I’ve read your thread here and at fullfatrr.com, and am grateful for your inspiration!
Cheers from the US
Michael
The wiring harness to the e-diff includes the EPB harness and the FBH pump harness. The harness connects inside the vehicle to one that includes the wires to the RDCU which is located under the carpet under the left side of the rear seat as well as to the harness that runs across the rear to the electrical panel in the right corner. If you can't extract that harness then at least get the RDCU and the attached harness back to the connector and the connector itself so that you can merge the RDCU harness into your connector, then install your own power cable back to the fuse panel and fit the fuse. The connector is easy to dismantle. There is a heavy earth wire for the RDCU which will be bolted somewhere nearby so try to get that too.
The RDCU from an early LR4 is identical but getting the wiring from the donor vehicle will save you having to get connector shells and terminals to fabricate the harness.
The diff is heavy, best changed on a hoist using a mount on a stand to hold the diff rather than 2 people struggling with multiple jacks and blocks of wood on the ground, as it's a long way up with the vehicle high enough to work under.
Amazing, thank you Graeme! And is the Topix manual the best place for instructions? I need to figure out how to download for a car with the features I don’t have… will need to dig up a VIN with a rear locker (maybe I use my dad’s…)
I'll dig out the couple of CCF settings that need to be changed.Quote:
Originally Posted by gentleman_driver
Sorry, I forgot to look at the CCF changes until just now.
The only CCF change was to change the rear e-diff from not fitted to fitted.
The E Diff is amazing,, on gravel roads the car just launches :eek2:( dash cam would be interesting!)