Reply With QuoteNever changed one, but as far as the calibration goes, I would have thought this would only be required when a height sensor is charged - it's the only time I've ever had to calibrate mine when it crapped one.
Hi Folks,
Arrived this week as part of my pre-emptive spare parts campaign! (not scooby doo).
I was wondering about fitting it and keeping the old one as a spare rather than waiting for a failure. Looks straight forward in RAVE (Apart from the 19 screws/bolts you have to undo to get the inner wheel guard off!!).
Has anyone done it? I can deflate the EAS on Hawkeye but does the system then need re calibrating once re inflation is required?
Hawkeye can not do this and is the major flaw compared to the GAP IID.
Cheers, Jerry
Super Moderator & CA manager
SubscriberNever changed one, but as far as the calibration goes, I would have thought this would only be required when a height sensor is charged - it's the only time I've ever had to calibrate mine when it crapped one.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Swaggie
No need to calibrate anything afterwards as they're only valves that are either open or closed. The pipes can be disconnected without deflating by allowing air to escape before fully undoing the nuts.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Master
Accessing the block shouldnt require the entire lining to be removed. just enought to pull forward and allow for space.
Good point.
Many thanks for that.
I Folks,
Just thought I'd close this off.
Fitted new one, very simple really. Lugging the heavy wheel off being the most difficult part.
As Chaybra says, no need to remove the whole inner guard. Lots of gunk in there!
Cheers, Jerry
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