Thread: Fuel consumption up after fitting EGR blanking kit

G'day,

The fault code (P0401) you are getting is most likely due to the fact that you no longer have a vacuum regulator valve to control the flow of exhaust gasses. This means no feedback to indicate how much or little deflection, and thus how much exhaust gas, is being fed into the induction system. Is the loom connector from the EGR attached to anything anymore? Is the vacuum line connected to a valve? If not, this is the most likely source of your fault code.

Good to hear that the induction path was clean, this will definitely help.

I gained about 0.5-1 l/100km around town and about 2l/100km average highway after fitting the blanking kit. Like all things automotive your consumption may vary.

Cheers,
Iain

Originally Posted by RangieBit

G'day,

The fault code (P0401) you are getting is most likely due to the fact that you no longer have a vacuum regulator valve to control the flow of exhaust gasses. This means no feedback to indicate how much or little deflection, and thus how much exhaust gas, is being fed into the induction system. Is the loom connector from the EGR attached to anything anymore? Is the vacuum line connected to a valve? If not, this is the most likely source of your fault code.

Good to hear that the induction path was clean, this will definitely help.

I gained about 0.5-1 l/100km around town and about 2l/100km average highway after fitting the blanking kit. Like all things automotive your consumption may vary.

Cheers,
Iain

Hi Ian, this is the blanking kit.
you will see I have marked where things connect.
The thin rod is solid, and is welded onto the blanker just so you have somewhere to attached the existing vacuum hose from the Vacuum modulator to. ( the Vacuum modulator is situated about 1/2 way along the passenger side of the engine, it has a wiring connector attached to it, none of this has been touched.

So when removing the factory EGR all you do pull off the vacuum hose and then fit it to the rod on the side of the EGR blanker, nothing else is touched. you then hook up the inter cooler hose and the existing exhaust hose is clamped on to the blanker, which is solid, so that blanks it off.
s-l500.jpg

So the whole system is still as it was except the vacuum hose is plugged so it just applies vacuum to the blank rod and has nothing to suck anymore.

I could be wrong about this, but I think I read somewhere that the blank needs to have a small hole in the centre to allow air pressure to equalise. Not sure if that applies to yours. Just a thought...

Sent from my A1601 using AULRO mobile app

Originally Posted by DiscoMick

I could be wrong about this, but I think I read somewhere that the blank needs to have a small hole in the centre to allow air pressure to equalise. Not sure if that applies to yours. Just a thought...

Sent from my A1601 using AULRO mobile app

I think I saw that somewhere also. I put the iitool on it again yesterday, and another code came up.
P0314-01 Cylinder balance control - I-component deviation outside limit - General failure information - general electrical failure

I notice at idle the dash gauge needle slightly bounces ever so slightly, the iidtool shows idle bounces 20 -30 rpms , so not as smooth as before , so maybe one of the injectors is over fueling ?
No smoke out the exhaust though . I did replace the injector loom so it cant be the loom causing electrical problems. I have been using chemtech diesel additive over a few tank fulls. I wonder if this is gunking up the injectors with what it supposed to clean?
Maybe all this intial stuff was a co incidence and it is the injector fueling causing this.
I don't know how to decipher the CYL Compensation info from the ID tool.

Hi Mario, I had the same cylinder balance fault when I first did a read with my IID. I cleared all faults and I've done a few hundred kms since then and it hasn't come back. I had a lot of other faults that haven't come back too - a lot of them were low voltage faults so possibly battery/power related?

Originally Posted by Judo

Hi Mario, I had the same cylinder balance fault when I first did a read with my IID. I cleared all faults and I've done a few hundred kms since then and it hasn't come back. I had a lot of other faults that haven't come back too - a lot of them were low voltage faults so possibly battery/power related?

Hi Justin, it has a brand new battery.
I have attached graph from iidtool, number number 1 is up and down and 6 cylinder is not running very smooth according to graph
graphImage.pdf

Fuel Comp readings are as follows.
Cyl 1 655 mm3
Cyl 2 654 mm3
Cyl 3 655 mm3
Cyl 4 653 mm3
Cyl 5 653 mm3
Cyl 6 6 mm3

I took the plug off injector 1 and 6cyl individually and the engine stumbles, I can also feel them actuating with the wire reconnected.

As I said I don't know how to interpret this info, but something is wrong.
Cheers, Mario

Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares

Hi Justin, it has a brand new battery.
I have attached graph from iidtool, number number 1 is up and down and 6 cylinder is not running very smooth according to graph
graphImage.pdf

Fuel Comp readings are as follows.
Cyl 1 655 mm3
Cyl 2 654 mm3
Cyl 3 655 mm3
Cyl 4 653 mm3
Cyl 5 653 mm3
Cyl 6 6 mm3

I took the plug off injector 1 and 6cyl individually and the engine stumbles, I can also feel them actuating with the wire reconnected.

As I said I don't know how to interpret this info, but something is wrong.
Cheers, Mario

This recently happened to mine,however no fault was thrown. just a pulsing idle that i could feel at crawling speeds.
changed the injector with a second hand one and back to normal. my numbers still move around a bit.

QUOTE=Roverlord off road spares;2616945]L322 3.0


( Just be the way what a stupid setup up on the hose connection, a jubilee clamp to fit hose to a tin connector and then that tin connector connects to the inter cooler with some rubber seal lip inside and a spring clip to retain it. Why didn't they just put a lip on the outlet of the inter cooler and the hose just clamp directly to that , but oh no, over engineering, complicating things unnecessarily. And you can't buy that tin connector separately, it only comes with the hose, which now can't be bought separately, it supersedes to an assembly with hose /pipe and upper hose connected. I am replacing it with original as the tin connector is not firm when connected, the inner seals are worn. some leak of oil apparent, so not sealing well. Otherwise I would have put a silicon hose on and used the existing connector .)

[/QUOTE]

This is one of the major L322 draw backs. Engineering by BMW. I have long stated that when it comes to car design there is the easy way, the hard way and the BMW way. The BMW way makes the hard way look easy!