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Thread: 4.4 v8 BMW motor HSE Engine Rebuild required

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    4.4 v8 BMW motor HSE Engine Rebuild required

    Hi all, my 2003 HSE V8 petrol the BMW version, requires a rebuild. It's done over 333 tho klms and now the head gaskets and rear main leak.
    Any one know the best engine rebuilder for these around. In or not too far from Canberra. I'm going to pull the motor out to save a heap of $$$labor. But would also like to boost the performance while its being rebuilt.

    Also require an AC pump and Steering column as mine has a few issues (bushes, bearings and Reach flex shaft & bush block) i
    Last edited by p38arover; 15th August 2017 at 07:39 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    4.4 v8 BMW motor HSE Engine Rebuild required

    Mercguy had it done a couple of years ago. Maybe contact him. Now selling his L322.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
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    The great white tundra of Minnesota
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    Rebuild on these engines is not cost friendly. Parts are really expensive and the cylinder work is specialized because the block is Alusil. Even piston rings are hard to come by and expensive.

    The current, and fourth engine in my L322 4.4, was purchased with a blown head gasket as that was the cheapest thing I could find. The head gasket is easy - just a head gasket. The timing part is not bad - just a BMW set up.

    With the engine out it is a friendly project. Every gasket was replaced - except two that I found the part number after I finished. These were the grommets/o-rings/sleeves that sit below the heads in the block for a check valve (not the ones on the side). I had the heads machined flat and did the valve lapping and stem seals myself. You will want to do the timing guides at the same time. Like I said - with the engine out it is pretty easy and actually rather enjoyable. I used a cherry picker to lift the engine when I needed to do bottom work - then put the oil pan back on and sat it on a waist high flat and level top to do the rest. I kept it suspended in case of a mishap.

    So were it me I would check compression and ring condition before you pull the engine as best you can with the blown head gasket. Was it an oil burner? Then pull it and remove the heads and examine further. The bottom end on these are extremely robust. Once you touch the rings it will get pretty expensive - but it does not appear to be that tough a job. From what I read one just re-rings and leaves the cylinder walls alone - no honing no deglazing. Everything is in RAVE - very well documented.

    When I did mine I also did the upper oil pan gasket, RMS, torque converter - tranny seals that were exposed and the entire PCV system.

    Another note - here in the USA they deleted the secondary air - not sure if they did it there. If they have you can order plugs (I think 22mm) and cap off the system at the heads. This is how the engine came after the delete. This way you can remove all the unnecessary hardware which always gets in the way. Cleans things up nicely - if interested I can provide more detail.

    What is your budget? I spent about $1500 USD - shopping price just for the hard parts.

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