G`day ,
the oil leak position you describe along with an idle problem may be pointing to the PCV system .
The leaks you`ve fixed already may point harder .
MKIII How To Repair and Inspect the PCV System
I am just recalling something I read a long time ago and AFAIR applied to the 3.0 diesel but may also affect the V8. It was also a problem with Commodore 3.8s which I have personally experienced.
The problem is that the temperature sensor stays at a low resistance ie the ECU thinks the engine is warm when it has cooled down, and so no or little enrichment is supplied for cold starting. It would explain the popping and farting and maybe even the misfire.
I once had a Commodore do this when I was visiting a company. I came out and went to start and no go. The fix then was to pull all the ECU fuses then try again. Maybe the RR equivalent is a hard reset.
Maybe cleaning the filter gives higher line pressure and fixes the problem. Hope so.
Regards Philip A
G`day ,
the oil leak position you describe along with an idle problem may be pointing to the PCV system .
The leaks you`ve fixed already may point harder .
MKIII How To Repair and Inspect the PCV System
PLR or peter r elsewhere
BA KA MA RRC L322 TD6 R1200GS
Hi Peter,
Right the thick plottens............. as mentioned earlier in the thread the inside of the R/C wasn't the cleanest engine I have ever seen so heading towards the PCV valve "system" seems like a good idea. This doesn't involve a who lot of stripping down and intrusive work that could result in a lot of broken and irreplaceable parts either....... bonus.
I might have a look at this tonight, I'll let you know how I go, I've printed out the instruction manual, looks fairly straight forward........................... famous last words.
Cheers Marty
Hey Marty,
I'm new to the RR's but I've owned two BMW E38s with the M62TUB44 before.
From my experience with the BMWs and rough running;
Some things you could try which wouldn't cost anything / much would be the MAF sensor - try disconnecting the MAF and see if it runs better = if so, the MAF might need cleaning (MAF cleaner is quite cheap from Supercheap etc.) or replacing. An OEM Bosch MAF is recommended. Otherwise a vacuum leak can be tested for by spraying upper engine cleaner around the intake / hoses area while the vehicle is running and seeing if the revs dip coinciding with the spray in a particular area. I had to replace the intake manifold gaskets, and front and rear intake gaskets to fix the issue with my 740iL. The intake manifold on mine was also oily, indicating the rear OSV was leaky at the time. The car had done 130,000km and was babied with FBMWSH so it was quite a good motor otherwise. I'd also replaced the CPS which helped response in the mid-upper RPM range.
When I moved the car on, the car was starting to respond a bit more sluggishly again, and I'd bought a VANOS solenoid in preparation for replacement as the INPA / diagnostic tools were indicating an issue with the left bank, but didn't get round to replacing it. Need a special tool to pull out the solenoid as it's mounted quite deep.
HTH in some way.
Matt
Hi PLR (Pete) and others interested,
Just like to compliment you here, I climbed over the engine tonight and found the short tube from the bottom of the separator completely disintegrated, basically not there, the small pipe that is grafted onto the larger pipe bolted to the sump that has a rubber pipe coming off the end connected to the back L/H side of the engine had also snapped off, rotten as a chop.
The large rubber pipes weren't blocked and were in quite good nick, the connection at the bottom of the separator was also clear, I'll give the separator a good clean at work tomorrow. I'm going to have to take the metal pipe off the sump to get the remainder of the rubber tube(s) off which means I have to drain the oil........ bugger!!
Well at least I have found the problem(s) and now have a way forward. With any luck this could well also fix the running issues, you never know.
The link you sent me to the document was very useful even had the part numbers on it, thank you.
Cheers Marty.
When my friend had that kind of problem, the mechanic said the plugs had nothing to do with it.
G`day Marty ,
i enjoy helping if i can and because you easily share your information , there`s no need for physic powers but you did it all i shared some logic .
When we were looking to get an L322 i didn`t have a preference for either fuel type and spent some time on the V8s idiosinks of which the PCV system is one . We ended up with a TD6 but i remember some of the M62 stuff .
Cheers
PLR or peter r elsewhere
BA KA MA RRC L322 TD6 R1200GS
Hi PLR and others,
So last night went for a climb over the engine again, I was trying to find where the small rubber tube connected to on the inlet manifold back cover, anyway after some mirror and torch work I have found that the little nozzle connection that is in an absolute plick of a position on the inside of the cover pipe (thanks for the pictures PLR) has actually snapped off the cover, oh such deep joy. I have now contacted TRS this morning for a new / second-hand cover which the cost of said item was quite a pleasant surprise.
Now to get the cover off. A couple of blessings is the removal of the plenum and the lifting of the bonnet to the service position, does make access that little bit better. Onward and forward..............
Cheers Marty
G’day Marty. Best of luck resolving the issue. Remember with older petrols start with air, fuel and spark. Then electrics if you have to.
L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
So here is the culprit, what a little bugger!!!! Just have to wait for the new one now. Incredible some thing so small could cause so much drama.
Changed the fuel filter as well that was full of crap as well that hadn’t been changed for a long time either.
Cheers Marty
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