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Stability control is probably best turned off in that situation or sand or anything slippery. It will think your car is out of control and kill power.
I had it turned on in a disco 4 I had driving through sand and it was braking wheels a lot when it shouldn’t have been.
Thanks for the replies.
Firstly a bit of qualification. Second car Ford Bronco. Back in the day when you got into Wonnangatta via Zeka Creek Track. Drove that car on a solo West East crossing of Australia. Then too it South to North in the wet season. Try the trig track in early December!!
Next came a custom built Pathfinder fully rebuilt with buggy bits from Jim Conner Racing in the USA. Car was built to do a solo person / solo vehicle crossing of the Canning Stock Route back in 1989 along with numerous trips through the High Plains and beyond.
Then came the Range Rover love affair starting with a 78 2 door with a stroked 360 V8 and double lockers. There wasnt many places that car wouldnt go. Then a couple of 89 four doors, his and hers. His with a VP injected stroker and hers with the off road gear. Then came the P38 with double lockers, lift kit, bull bar, winch etc. 378000 kms later and she's still doing active bush duty.
And then the L322.
So in the last 38 years I've driven cars to places many people could only dream of. North into Alaska from Canada, the Hoggar Mountains in the Sahara, Central America, The Pyrenees in Andorra, and all corners of Australia. So the point is not to brag, but to point out that I'm a pretty accomplished 4w driver and don't really need a course to help me drive the car, unless of course, it's specifically relates to the L322, as there is obviously something going on with all this electronic trickery that I'm failing to understand, being 'old school' and used to driving the cars manually with no traction aids, abs, etc.
But this car just didnt seem to do the right thing. It's responsive. As I saw I was going to get into trouble and that only momentum would get me through, even if I was bellied, the right foot went down hard but the car didnt respond as expected. Clearly I already had drive issues, and when I booted it, it seems I only had one wheel doing the work.
I'm going to put it in the paddock tomorrow, chain it to an 8 ton loader and allow it to break traction so I can get some idea of what the system is attempting to do. I didn't buy it for heavy off road work, I have the P38 for that, but it's certainly nice to know the cars limitations and quirks so you don't have to be scared to be adventurous if the time and place arises.
Last year I followed a D4 through the bush. Stock as it rolled off the showroom floor, and it was certainly impressive. Particularly in deep mud. Seemed to have no issues. But my L322 wasn't in that league.
I'm sure there are a few blokes here who may have some serious personal knowledge of tackling extreme conditions in an L322.
Yes, I agree. Pretty much as soon as I got into the rutted country I turned the DSC off. I'm not sue how it works, but like you, I felt it would kill power when it sensed traction loss.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blade74
I had the car on high setting, and then tried the foot on the brake, hold the switch around to evoke extra high, but this didnt seem to do anything. I thought it might just alleviate the pressure of the exhaust and tank guard being bellied out. But no.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift
If they did a course specifically on the L322 and how to drive around the electronics, I'd be up for that.Quote:
Originally Posted by 2nd Rower
Driving through the brakes. Interesting thought. Care to elaborate on what you mean?
So the DSC is stability control. Wonder what this actually does? Speed and traction related maybe tied into the EAS systems?Quote:
Originally Posted by harlie
Now traction control, can that be evoked or turned on and off manually?
How does the traction control work on the L322. ABS controlled or throttle controlled?
Does the centre diff lock automatically as you enter low range, or is it permanent viscous so there is no way to give 50/50 drive to the wheels?
DSC I’m assuming either brakes a wheel or cuts power when it detects a wheel slipping.
Thinking the car is out of control on a road.
Stability control will stop you getting started in sand.Quote:
I'm not sure how dependant it is on Stability Control (which is what the button turns off)
It should be turned off as soon as off road .
I don't know whether in the OP specific situation whether it caused his problem , but off is usually better.
Regards Philip A
You need to check up on Wickie or something about how your model L322 works. From memory the early ones used a Torsen centre diff, which doesn't provide 50/50 drive ever. The later ones (2007 on?) use the same system as the D4 and can provide 50/50 drive when needed by locking the centre diff. Rock Crawl mode would be the place to start in a 2007 plus model but I don't think you have that in your model??
My laymans understanding (and happy to be corrected by greater powers) is the single rotating wheel is merely the car doing what its meant to. All modern 4x4's send drive via their (unlocked) diffs to the the wheel(s) that is/are moving - they're designed this way.Quote:
Originally Posted by uzz32soarer
So I am 'assuming' from your description in your instance the centre diff is sending all power to the front diff as rear wheels are 'stuck'; and the front diff is then sending all power to the single wheel that is rotating - as its designed to - as the other front wheel is 'stuck'.
To 'trick' the diff(s) and have power sent to all or more wheels; you can either try and dab the brake with the left foot whilst still applying accelerating with right foot; or 'drive through the brakes'. This braking stops the single or couple of wheels spinning and the diff(s) should then send power back to the other wheels that are not receiving drive power. Hope that description makes sense, but as I said happy to be corrected.
Driving through the brakes involves using the left foot to find the biting point of the brakes whilst then using the accelerator with the right foot to drive the car through the biting point - would advise getting shown by a 4x4 instructor how to do this - and this stops a single wheel getting all/most of the drive in these type of situations.
The training that the RR club offer covers all this as well as many other techniques suitable to all makes of 4x4's, inc those with traction control etc etc - I have done it twice and highly recommend it, and IMHO a steal for the price of membership. Otherwise there's safetrek I mentioned in my earlier post', or Green Oval Experience from Perth do Land Rover specific training in VIC, but I believe this may focus on the later LR vehicles with Terrain Response (Might be worth checking).
In regards to the extended height; I have had both my cars (previous 09 RRS TDV6 and current 10 L322 TDV8) automatically go into this in challenging offroad conditions, but this was automatic, and despite reading several of the methods for getting the car into this height manually I have never been successful. I am looking at LAMS to be able to control this.