Thread: What are the correct NGK spark plugs for the M62 4.4.V8?

I decided to buy the BKR6EQUP - they are as dear as poison, about $22 each!

Now to change them. The two plugs I've recently removed have been so tight I was worried about the threads galling and damaging the heads. The plug threads are brown with baked on oil. I may try loosening them and then spraying in a quantity of WD40 in the hope it will seep down the threads and loosen/lubricate them. Any thoughts on that?

I am undecided on whether or not to run a thread chaser through the holes to clear them of tarry baked on oil and also whether to apply anti seize.

Previous alloy-headed engines of mine haven't used long life spark plugs so they didn't stay in for years and I generally had no problem removing them.

Also, does one remove the plugs from a hot or cold engine? Holes expand when hot, and aluminium expands more than steel so one would expect the plugs should be easier to remove when hot. On previous cars I've done them cold but the weren't tight like these.

Mate,, you havent bought good plugs for a while then...

Originally Posted by p38arover

I decided to buy the BKR6EQUP - they are as dear as poison, about $22 each!

Now to change them. The two plugs I've recently removed have been so tight I was worried about the threads galling and damaging the heads. The plug threads are brown with baked on oil. I may try loosening them and then spraying in a quantity of WD40 in the hope it will seep down the threads and loosen/lubricate them. Any thoughts on that?

I am undecided on whether or not to run a thread chaser through the holes to clear them of tarry baked on oil and also whether to apply anti seize.

Previous alloy-headed engines of mine haven't used long life spark plugs so they didn't stay in for years and I generally had no problem removing them.

Also, does one remove the plugs from a hot or cold engine? Holes expand when hot, and aluminium expands more than steel so one would expect the plugs should be easier to remove when hot. On previous cars I've done them cold but the weren't tight like these.

Coat an intermediate lead tap with grease and run it through the thread. Then use a wad of clean cloth to degrease the hole. The tap should remove no more than a human hair thickness chip unless the thread is damaged badly. Install the new plugs using a smear of nickel anti-seize on the threads. DON'T use copper anti-seize on aluminium.

$22 for a plug would make your eyes water. I remember buying Bosch plugs from the factory shop in Fortitude Valley for 5s6d. Edit - Wrong, it was 2s9d

I've done 4 plugs. One came out easily, it had nicker anti-seize on it. The other three had to be worked out, I sprayed WD40 down the hole after loosening the plugs a little and let it sit for about 30 minutes or so. That help enormously.

I got an old plug and ground off the electrodes. I then ground a groove up the side of the threaded section to make a thread chaser. I wound that in with a bit of rubber tubing over the insulator. It wound in easily and brought out a minimum of gunk (I had smeared a littel grease into the groove to cat any gunk.

Despite what the NGK site says, I've smeared the new plug threads with nickel anti-seize. The workshop manuals says 23 ft lbs for the torque wrench. However, I reduced the setting on the wrench to 20 ft.lbs to allow for the lubricant effect of the anti-seize and it still seemed more than I would normally apply. In fact, I didn't let the wrench click off (it's a Warren & Brown 3/8" deflecting beam unit used on my motorbikes).

326__19924.1471151766.jpg

Before all this started I had a persistent misfire on no. 4 cylinder (according to Faultmate).

Today, when I pulled out the coil (coil on plug design) a very fine length of copper wire, about 100m long, came out with the coil assy. It was along the plug boot. I wonder........

All done. No.8 had a lot of oil down the hole.

Using WD40 seemed to ease the plugs and cleaned up the threads. The new plugs went in very nicely.

There's no detectable miss but I'll put Faultmate on it to check cylinder roughness. Previously, no. 4 was in the order of 1000 while the others were under 10. What that means I have no idea.

Originally Posted by p38arover

I've done 4 plugs. One came out easily, it had nicker anti-seize on it. The other three had to be worked out, I sprayed WD40 down the hole after loosening the plugs a little and let it sit for about 30 minutes or so. That help enormously.

I got an old plug and ground off the electrodes. I then ground a groove up the side of the threaded section to make a thread chaser. I wound that in with a bit of rubber tubing over the insulator. It wound in easily and brought out a minimum of gunk (I had smeared a littel grease into the groove to cat any gunk.

Despite what the NGK site says, I've smeared the new plug threads with nickel anti-seize. The workshop manuals says 23 ft lbs for the torque wrench. However, I reduced the setting on the wrench to 20 ft.lbs to allow for the lubricant effect of the anti-seize and it still seemed more than I would normally apply. In fact, I didn't let the wrench click off (it's a Warren & Brown 3/8" deflecting beam unit used on my motorbikes).

326__19924.1471151766.jpg

Before all this started I had a persistent misfire on no. 4 cylinder (according to Faultmate).

Today, when I pulled out the coil (coil on plug design) a very fine length of copper wire, about 100m long, came out with the coil assy. It was along the plug boot. I wonder........

The Seekonk (USA made) 1/4" drive torque wrench for $100 . dial type reads either direction and is inspection grade. Top shelf high precision item.

Well, that didn't go so well.

The car is missing quite badly now, especially when I open the throttle.

I was at KLR Auto today so I grabbed their Autologic and put that on the car but no faults were logged and the cylinder roughness was the same for all cylinders. When I revved it a bit, the cylinder roughness on all cylinders dropped to zero.

This afternoon, the check engine light came on, flashing, and then went out several times when I opened the throttle. I'll put my Faultmate, T4, or Gap IID tool on it tomorrow to see if any faults have been logged.

I was at British Motor Imports today and another chap getting parts suggested water in the fuel, after all the rain Sydney's had recently, could be the problem. Dunno, I haven't fuelled up since 8th March.

I've heard that one can put metho in the tank to absorb the water and thus allow it to pass through the injectors but I don't know if that's true. IF it is, how much metho? That's the problem with today's plastic fuel tanks, there's no drain plug which would allow dropping the fuel easily.

Yep Metho works.. the ratio I found was 50-1,, though paper filters dont like it???
why not try an E blend fuel? should not allow water to settle? shouldnt any water dissovle in the methanol?