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Thread: Engine gearbox flush.

  1. #1
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    Engine gearbox flush.

    Hi guys,
    what would one expect to pay for an engine and gearbox flush for a TDV8 3.6?
    Thanks.
    Phil.

  2. #2
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    I recently spoke to local Indy mechanic about a transmission flush on the same 3.6 TDV8. It would be close to $1200 using ZF fluid and replacing pan/filter with metal replacement. There are substitute oils that are to spec of the ZF fluid and would probably make for a cheaper price.
    Not sure what they would charge for engine, I've always done all my own fluid changes

  3. #3
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    Pointless doing an engine oil flush, just drain and replace filter.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  4. #4
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    Perhaps by the engine flush he means using an additive to break down any sludge

  5. #5
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    Yea, I meant oils and filter for engine. Thanks.

  6. #6
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    Without an engine oil flush, the oil goes black pretty much straight away.

    I now do a flush mainly to ensure no blockages to/from the turbos.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rar110 View Post
    Without an engine oil flush, the oil goes black pretty much straight away.

    I now do a flush mainly to ensure no blockages to/from the turbos.
    That's mostly because up to .75l of old oil are left behind in most engine after a drain, depending on engine.
    E.g. The old 300Tdi retained around 600ml of old oil due to the design of the sump and oil cooler circuits

    I really dislike solvent based flushes, and modern engine oil detergent/dispersent packages are very, very good.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    That's mostly because up to .75l of old oil are left behind in most engine after a drain, depending on engine.
    E.g. The old 300Tdi retained around 600ml of old oil due to the design of the sump and oil cooler circuits

    I really dislike solvent based flushes, and modern engine oil detergent/dispersent packages are very, very good.
    Are you saying it would be better not to use a flush additive and ignore the residue?
    Mine are both Isuzu 4bd1t motors
    Thanks
    Phil B

    Custodian of:
    1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
    1978 S3 swb canvas
    48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
    1985 County with 4BD1T

  9. #9
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    I just throw some cheap new diesel oil through the engine, once the new filters are on, then run for maybe a hundred Kay’s, then replace the oil only with the good stuff I use for 10000km. Keeps it looking clean for 10mins or so....👍
    ........Cheers.....Gerry.

    "IT’S NOT THE YEARS IN YOUR LIFE, IT’S THE LIFE IN YOUR YEARS"

    Ongoing project:
    7/87 110 County 4BD1T/LT95TRB, WTA IC, PTO, Maxied & a Track Trailer.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil B View Post
    Are you saying it would be better not to use a flush additive and ignore the residue?
    Mine are both Isuzu 4bd1t motors
    Thanks
    Yep, I really don't like flush additives and some gets left behind.

    I've had the habit of dumping 0.5-1 litre of fresh oil through before putting the drain plug back in in the engines I service for near thirty years now, it helps dilute a bit if not most of the residual oil.

    The detergent/dispersant package in modern diesel oils and especially in post CI4+ and especially ACEA E4, E6, E9 oils is impressive.
    They need to be to combat the soot from EGR systems.
    And the ACEA specs are more robust than the equivalent API CI ones, FWIW.

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