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Thread: Flip key - casing replacement

  1. #1
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    Flip key - casing replacement

    You know how the story goes - both keys work perfectly, but the casings are starting to fall apart. LR say they don't replace the casing on my model (flip key for '09 RRV) and that I need a whole new key: $410 for the key, and about $180 to code. I've seen the below solution on eBay for $20, which suggests I can switch in both the circuit board and the existing key blade into the new case. Does anyone have any experience with this - is it an easy thing to do?

    Replacement 3 button flip key case for Range Rover L322 remote key 2005 - 2009 741414628892 | eBay

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    Sorry can't help with your problem but would point out the someone has to pay for Defender "Test" junkets around the globe.

    $590! They is joking right?

    Feedback appears ok though. What could possibly go wrong?

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    For $20 I would certainly give it a shot . made more expensive mistakes than that before.

  4. #4
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    I bought one similar but a bit dearer,$80 ish off ebay and probably a bit better quality , it was simple took the transponder chip out of existing fob, inserted it into the new ones cavity and paid $50 to locksmith to cut the key to match the existing key.
    20190916_191035.jpg


  5. #5
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    I’m pretty sure you can just buy/replace the rubber buttons.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
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    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    Quote Originally Posted by rar110 View Post
    I’m pretty sure you can just buy/replace the rubber buttons.
    Yes you can just replce the buttons I did one old key with silicon ones , Be wary of the cheap chinese fobs and buttons as they are very hard to press compared to good ones and the plastic casing material is of low quality plastic. The silicon button were avail on the bay from an Aussie seller in WA,they also used medical grade silicon.
    Like everything buy cheap, buy twice


  7. #7
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    Both the key fob casings were replaced by previous owner just prior to me taking ownership. Or at least they tried to replace them - I say that because the flip part of the key didn't fit perfectly in the replacement shells. The plastic shells needed some slight shaving with a Stanley knife where the key pivots.
    Same thing Nut Job had to do - check out his video on YouTube.
    The new casings I have were for a different market as they show 315MHz, pretty sure UK and Aus market fobs were on a different frequency. Not a biggie, but makes it obvious they've been replaced.

    You can also remove the key blade from the pivot point, there is a small pin holding it in place, you can pop it out with a good quality SIM card tool. Mine were a little loose, so I also removed the blades and reinstalled with a shim.

    I think it's worth buying a pair of replacements and having a go yourself. Not sure on the quality of eBay listings as I'm not sure which ones the previous owner bought.

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    Anyone had any experience with the early L322 with the non-flip type key. Key fob is toast and can only access the car using the key itself. Local " Mr Minit " locksmith has nothing in his books for the 2002 L322.IMG_20190921_135300.jpg
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    I bought an aftermarket one off eBay but noticed some don’t have the land rover enormous at the bottom and some do. I also had to get a battery as the original had died. The battery needs to be desoldered from the circuit board and the new one soldered on. There are plenty of videos on you tube on how to replace it. The original fob needs to be destroyed to get the circuit board out. Good luck.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pop058 View Post
    Anyone had any experience with the early L322 with the non-flip type key. Key fob is toast and can only access the car using the key itself. Local " Mr Minit " locksmith has nothing in his books for the 2002 L322.
    Are you sure it's not working? When I bought my L322, only one key worked.

    Once I resynched them, both worked. There is a specific procedure to synch both otherwise you'll only ever get one working at a time. I can try to find the procedure. I kept getting wrong until someone explained the correct way.

    EDIT (from FullFatRR.com):

    Try this:

    Reset Procedure for your key fobs

    Every signal from the remote handset contains the transmitter identification code and a rolling code. The BCU checks the codes and only responds if the signal is from a valid transmitter. During vehicle production, the remote handsets supplied with the vehicle are initialised to set their individual transmitter identification codes and synchronise their respective rolling codes with the BCU. If a transmitter loses synchronisation with the BCU, or if a replacement or additional remote handset is to be used with the vehicle, the initialisation procedure must be repeated. During the procedure, all remote handsets for use with the vehicle must be initialised.

    Initialisation Procedure

    1 Ensure the vehicle is unlocked and the driver and front passenger doors are closed.

    2 Install a key/remote handset in the ignition switch, then turn the ignition switch to position I and back to position 0 in less than 5 seconds to put the BCU into the initialisation mode. Continue the procedure within 30 seconds of turning the ignition switch to position 0.

    3 Remove the key/remote handset from the ignition switch.

    4 Press and hold the unlock button for a maximum of 15 seconds. During this time, momentarily press the lock button three times within 10 seconds.

    5 Release both buttons.

    6 Successful initialisation is indicated by the BCU locking then unlocking the vehicle.
    If this does not occur, repeat step 4.

    7 Repeat steps 4 and 5 with all other remote handsets belonging to the vehicle (4 maximum).

    Begin the initialisation of each remote handset within 30 seconds of completing the previous initialisation, or the BCU will drop out of the initialisation mode and the complete procedure will have to be started again

    ##########################################

    Quote Originally Posted by bgennette
    Winter is approaching here in the great south land and all old batteries are dying. Our daughter's Toyota Rav 4, my partner's VW Golf and my L322 remote key fobs all quit within a week. All 3 use the same battery - 20mm diameter, 1.6mm thick, 3.4 volt (nominal) lithium cell - aka 2016 coin cell. The Rav and VW retained settings during change over, but not the Range Rover. So, on to the wiki to read the re-sync instructions. After failing a few times I did some research and here is the result -

    L322 Keys have 3 lock systems
    1 - The mechanical match of the cut will release the tumblers in the driver side door and the ignition lock.
    2 - Detecting (within ~30mm) a valid Radio Frequency IDentity (RFID) chip embedded in a key will release the ignition lock latch.
    3 - A 433MHz wireless transmitter in each key fob will send codes to the Body Control Module (BCM).
    While most of the world uses 433MHz for remote unlocking the US uses 315MHz ...

    The mechanical key cut is easy to defeat. That is why the Radio Frequency IDentity system was added.
    A set of RFIDs (8-10) is stored in the BCM at the factory. The first 2 match the chips inside the keys initially supplied, and only Range Rover keeps a copy of the other codes. Replacement keys need a valid RFID chip inside, either physically moved from the old key or supplied (by Range Rover) on purchase of additional keys.
    However a tech savvy locksmith can overwrite codes stored in the BCM to match new RFIDs. For a large fee. Why? Because the BCM has to be taken from under the left seat to the locksmiths electronics workshop, pulled apart, the memory chip accessed with an in-circuit clamp and ... so on.

    Besides the RFID # the Body Control Module also stores a list of valid key fob transmitter IDs and calculates a new access code for each fob every time it receives a key press message from that fob. All remote key fobs also calculate the same new access code (unique to themselves) ready for the next key press. The remote may be pressed when out of range so that its calculated code may get 'out of sync' with the access codes that the BCM calculates.
    To accommodate this the BCM always calculates ~100 concecutive new access codes and accepts them all. It then re-adjusts to a matching access code so that it stays 'in sync' with each key fob.

    But sometimes the key fob will get more than 100 codes out of sync. This can happen when a grand kid plays with your keys or the battery goes flat and the key fob 'forgets' the current code (or re-boots to start from some default value). Also a drowned or corroded (destroyed) transmitter may also be replaced with a new one. In each case the BCM can still be re-synced to the key fob's current access code by sending a special sequence of button presses from the fob. BUT the re-sync re-writes the entire key fob data table, so all existing keys need to be re-synced whenever this procedure is done.


    Step 1 - setup 'standard conditions'
    Key operator in driver's seat
    All doors closed
    All doors un-locked

    Step 2 - initialize BCM to re-sync mode
    Put a valid key into ignition lock
    Turn key to I (accessories) - this can only happen if the key's RFID is stored in the BCM
    Turn key to 0 (off) within 5 seconds (any longer cancels re-sync mode)
    Remove key from ignition lock

    Step 3 - send re-sync sequence
    Hold key at face level (receive antenna is at this height)
    Hold down un-lock button, wait till send LED flashes at least twice
    Press and release lock button 3 times
    If successful all doors will lock then unlock.
    Both the transmitter ID and the new (next) access code are stored in the BCM's temporary memory.
    Release un-lock button too

    Repeat Step 3 for every key fob. Step 3 has a time limit of 30s per key. Over-running any timeout
    will part cancel re-sync mode. Remember, ALL keys need to re-sync in the one procedure, 30s each -
    if any key fails to sync go back and do step 2 twice (once to fully cancel re-sync mode and once to
    re-start it) then steps 3 & 4. Missed keys will be waaaay out of sync.

    Step 4 - write changes to BCM permanent memory
    Put the key (that was used to start the session) into ignition lock (MUST be same RFID as Step 2)
    Turn key to I (accessories) - this must be done before the last Step 3 30s times out.
    Turn key to 0 (off)
    Remove key from ignition lock
    All done. Test all keys.

    Note - badly worn conductive contacts or plastic buttons on a key fob can cause the re-sync to fail because they don't make contact, or prematurely release a button, or send multiple presses for one user press, etc. This was where my problem was, but a little bit of "shoe glue" applied to certain points inside the key fob plastic buttons restored clean, clear key presses and the key synced first time.
    Besides the plastic button wearing the actual conductive coating that the button presses against the circuit board also wears away over time. There is very little you can do to fix this except by replacing it. The good news is that a replacement plastic sheet with a new conductive contact dimple is included with most ebay button and fob kits.

    Note - a key without a RFID chip is still able to unlock the door, but can't start the engine. Useful if the 'real' key accidentally gets locked in.

    By-the-way the RFID chip in the key is used by the BCM for all the other luxury touches like individual seat position, outside mirror positions, gear changing preferences, etc.

    bye.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

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