Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 46

Thread: M62 TU timing chains and Vanos rebuild

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    37
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    When are you doing mine?
    Thanks for the link Laurie!

    Haha P38 rover... you have the same issue? I’m happy to help out if you need. Give me a pm if you’re keen. I’ve always wanted my own engineering consultancy, but maybe I should start a Land Rover/Range Rover timing chain clinic instead. My mrs would be stoked.

  2. #12
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is online now Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Administrator
    I'm here to help you!
    Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    30,160
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I think I'm a bit far away!

    I also think it would be prudent to change the guides and chains now - 227K. If I had workshop space, I'd probably do it.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    37
    Total Downloaded
    0
    It’s finished!
    Ended cutting off the propriety connector parts and used hose clamps for the power steering. The difference in power and v8 burble post timing chains and Vanos is amazing. The engine light is gone too. Must have been a loss in PAS pressure triggering it on that first 25m drive.

    Now to degrease the shed...

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    37
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I'm back!

    I just returned from a 700km round trip to Margaret River and the engine was flawless.

    The air suspension though...

    Half way there, the passenger side has decided to lower to access height (convenient for my pregnant partner--not for driving though!) with the air suspension inactive message too. When we got to the hotel I tried disconnecting the battery and doing the lock to lock on the steering wheel after reconnection - and clearing the fault using the in dash method...

    Ignition key must be “off”.
    • Press and hold the Check Control button in the instrument cluster (RIGHT button), and turn the ignition key to the first position (KLR).
    * You will first see "Check Control OK", some seconds later you will see "Test Nr.01"
    * Push the left button on the instrument cluster to see the car's identification number. Add the 5 digits (not 6) together and write down that number, you will need it for unlocking all the functions. Example: A123457 will lead to 2+3+4+5+7 = 21
    * Push the right button until you see "Test Nr.19"
    * Push left button until you see the number that is equal to the one you calculated above
    * Push right button again

    1. Display Car's identification number, HW/SW version, construction date
    2. instrument cluster self test. Will light up all lights and run all guages
    3. Current consumption (liters/hour)
    4. Average consumption (liters/100 km)
    5. Current range
    6. Remaining fuel in tank. Three sets of numbers: A/B/C. C=total amount.
    7. Engine RPM / Coolant Temp (C)
    8. Current Speed (kph)
    9. System voltage at Term. "R" (Battery Voltage)
    10. Country/Language (UK, US, Spa, Ger, Jap, etc.)
    11. Units am/pm
    12. Average Speed
    13. ETA
    14. Date of Software Mask
    15. Production Diagnosis
    16. ""
    17. Display Vehicle Specific Data
    18. Alarm Changeover (cont. vs. intermittent OBC chime)
    19. Lock/Unlock
    20. Correction factor for fuel consumption (nicht ändern!)
    21. Reset all defect codes


    To cut a long story short - it didn't fix the problem and we ended up carefully driving the wonky car 300km home. My question is: is this issue something that I need to plug a scan tool in to sort out? Does anyone in the Perth region have one that I could possibly borrow?

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Hervey Bay
    Posts
    531
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I finally pulled my finger out and changed out my timing chains, guides, tensioners, Vanos seals and fitted a new tranny cooler.

    Fairly big job about 16 hours worth for a first attempt, but could cut that down by 4 hours if I did it again.

    I got sick of waiting for a UK supplier to send me a shipping quote for the kit after may attempts so I ended up taking the risk and ordering a kit from Aliexpress. Man it was cheap.

    Timing kit with all guides, 3 chains, 3 tensioners, vanos and timing cover gaskets for $198 plus $55 postage. I checked all the parts out and was quite impressed with the quality. They didn't look like cheap knock offs (that I expected) and looked identical to the factory stuff. Nice machining and good quality plastics and alloy parts and the gaskets looked factory. But time will tell.

    The Vanos seals were cheap too. $15 delivered with the 5 seals per side and worked ok. The tranny cooler with the Orings was $33 but $54 for postage.

    The inside of my engine is absolutely filthy with a thick layer of soft crud everywhere. I guess oil changes where not that important to the previous owners. That bit me in the bum on the first test drive. I sounded great on the first start up, no start up rattle and smooth as silk. That was until I got 1km down the road. Oil light came on and the shut the engine down warning. I checked for leaks but all was good. I then pulled off the lower sump plate and OMG it was disgusting in there! The oil pick up was blocked with crud and the sump was a mess. Why would BMW make the oil pick up so SMALL! It's about the size of a 10c piece! Designed to fail maybe but that is a mod I'll be doing next oil change, I'll enlarge it to a normal size. I'll be doing 3 monthly oil changes for the foreseeable future as well.

    The guides were still intact but very very brittle. The large plastic guide even broke in half when I was pulling it out, so good job done, it was defiantly due at 238 000km.

    So I've just come back from a good 50km test drive and all is good. No more rattles and smoother power delivery. I'm a happy man.


    AP03 18pcs Set Timing Chain KIT For BMW E39 M62 540i MODELS 4.4L REF:11311741236 11311741777 11311435028| | - AliExpress

    Twin Double Seal Rings Repair/Upgrade for V8 M62TU M62 Vanos Range Rover TS | eBay

    Brand New Transmission Oil Cooler For Range Rover 4.4L W/ O-Rings Pfd000020 | eBay

    BMW 32mm Fan Clutch Wrench Water Pump Holder Removal Tool E34/E39/E36/E46/E90 AU 541909129015 | eBay

    CAM Camshaft Alignment VANOS Engine Timing Tool Kit For BMW M60 M62 M62TU M60B40 6941689828513 | eBay
    04 L322 Vogue V8 - Work truck
    07 Freelander 2 TD4 SE - The wifes
    74 Leyland P76 Targa Florio - Aspen Green
    91 Kawasaki GPZ900R


    Previous LRs = 78IIa series - 81, 93, 95 RRC - D2V8

  6. #16
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is online now Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Administrator
    I'm here to help you!
    Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    30,160
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I spoke to a LR mechanic (not from KLR) about doing this job and he said he’s never seen it done successfully in the long term. I don’t know that he has done one.

    The discussion came about because I’d mentioned I’d tried contacting a BMW specialist to get a quote to do the job but got no reply.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Hervey Bay
    Posts
    531
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hey Ron, That sounds strange that the changing chains, guides and tensioners would cause issues down the track. BMW guys have been doing it for years. I have heard the camshaft timing plates on the end of the vanos unit come loose and sends your efi timing out but I put a dab of Loctie on them just in case.

    I've seen quotes around the 4.5K mark for the job and I can see why. I got my stuff really cheap but I've seen part prices 10 times or more than what I paid.

    But what happens if you don't get it done? Jumping timing chains and bent valves, and then where do you go? Scrap the car?

    Range Rover 4.4 Timing Chain Rebuild Kit
    04 L322 Vogue V8 - Work truck
    07 Freelander 2 TD4 SE - The wifes
    74 Leyland P76 Targa Florio - Aspen Green
    91 Kawasaki GPZ900R


    Previous LRs = 78IIa series - 81, 93, 95 RRC - D2V8

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    137
    Total Downloaded
    0
    What are the key steps to cut it down?

    In future I'll need to do guides, might leave the vanos alone as it's quiet as... But who knows what it'll be like once I get around to the job!

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Carindale, Brisbane, Qld
    Posts
    652
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Hire cam lock tool kit in Brisbane

    My turn to do this job on my 2005 4.4 M62.

    20200831_204737.jpg

    Took sump off, found plastic from chain guide. Will need to chain guide replacement. Anyone know where I can hire cam lock tools in Brisbane?

    Also can I replace the timing chain guides without disrupting the timing?

    How do I measure chain to see if it's stretched and needing replacement?
    Now: 2005 L322 Vogue 4.4 M62TU (Black)
    Before: 2000 P38A HSE 4.6 - stately capability | 2008 Kluger KX-S | 2004 Forester | 2000 Yamaha XJR1300 | 1993 VR Calais | 1974 HQ Statesman - 308 V8 | HT | HK

  10. #20
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is online now Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Administrator
    I'm here to help you!
    Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    30,160
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Ooh, not good. The last time I took my lower sump off all was good in there.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!