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Thread: 3.6L TDV8 Intake / Valve Cover Gasket

  1. #1
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    3.6L TDV8 Intake / Valve Cover Gasket

    Oil leaks, there's only so much you can tolerate and it was exceeding my underbody rust proofing requirements and I was getting some drips on the drive way.
    IMG_20200726_134025.jpg

    Oil was leaking out from where the injectors enter the valve cover. I had already removed the metal shields that cover the injectors at this stage. I had degreased the valve cover and went for a drive around the block. You can see the oil leaking from a short 5 min run.
    IMG_20200726_193803.jpg

    I am just going to make a few points from here on the process I took to do the job. Note: I'm not a pro, and this was done at home - so if you're going to follow this do at your own risk. Definitely for more advanced home mechanics.

    RH = Drivers side (Australia/UK spec). Side of the ABS/brakes
    LH = Passenger side. Battery etc


    • Remove air intake plenum. Top intercooler hoses. Unclip all the electrical connectors... There is a separate write up on removing components to get to the valley of the V8. You need to remove the top section of the inlet manifold


    • IMG_20200801_095311.jpg
    • The connector at the back of the LH bank I have always found a bit tricky as it's in an awkward place. Use a small flat screwdriver to push it open and apart
    • IMG_20200801_095345.jpg
    • Carefully separate the vacuum lines they are very brittle.
    • Top Intake is now off
    • RH bank
    • Metal shield comes off from above injectors. 1/4 drive with long extensions and wobble end. 10mm. Awkward to get out, but it comes out.
    • Maybe easier with the ABS unit unbolted so you can move it around. I didn't at this stage.
    • Remove injectors #1 and #2. 17mm spanner to undo the hard line from the common rail. No need to remove the hard line from injector.
    • Remove leak off pipe and clips. Use a small flat screwdriver or pick to start, I then used 90deg circlip pliers to remove the clip from the injector so it didn't ping off and get lost.
    • To remove injector, undo the two bolts either side. 8mm, 1/4 drive socket, wobble and extension. Free the injector by trying to turn it clockwise then counterclockwise until it starts to free up and then you can start to lift it out of the engine.
    • For injector #3 and #4 you need to undo the RH engine mount and tilt the engine to the passenger side with a jack.
    • Remove the under trays.
    • The engine mounts are cushioned with air and there is a little air hose that plugs in underneath. Best to pull the tube straight out so it doesn't pull out under tension when the engine is tilted.
    • There are two bolts on the bottom of the mounts and one on top. The RH side can only access the bottom bolts (16mm). Use a spanner on the front bolt from underneath. The rear one come in from top with a long 500mm+ extension bar with wobble end and 16mm crowsfoot spanner - I found this bolt awful.
    • Once bolts were undone completely, I used a block of wood on RH side of sump and trolley jack to ease the weight of the engine up.
    • Hardlines had to come off the #3 and #4 injectors as well as the common rail in order to extract them. Same process with the leak off pipes
    • Undo the many 10mm nuts and the cover. There was a small nut at the back lower corner of the cover that was holding a heat sheild, it was a little awkward.
    • Note that before I started all this I had cleaned up around the engine bay so as to avoid getting any dirt or foreign matter into the engine.
    • Remove the cam cover. Careful with the leak off piping at the back if you haven't already removed it from the ridge/clips in the back of the valve cover.
    • IMG_20200808_153023.jpg
    • IMG_20200808_155734.jpg
    • IMG_20200808_155947.jpg
    • Fairly obvious what to do next. I reused the rubber washers and bolts. Most of the washers remained stuck to the valve cover, only one or two came off - I figured better not to disturb the seal they had.
    • IMG_20200808_162122.jpg
    • Clean up the mating surface before reinstalling
    • IMG_20200808_163812.jpg
    • Torque the valve cover bolts back down to 10nm.
    • IMG_20200809_205728.jpg
    • Cleaned up the injector ports with a microfibre and acetone to get a clean and debris free surface
    • IMG_20200809_211530.jpg
    • Injectors got new copper washers. I think the ones I got were actually for a TDV6, basically the same. Some minor differences in the shape of the ID, bit overall same thickness and OD.
    • IMG_20200809_201825.jpg
    • Install the leak off pipe clip onto the injector, but then back it off so it's just balancing on the edge of the ridge so you can push the leak off pipe tube in.
    • Install injectors starting at the back E.g. #4. Be very careful not to bump the clip in any way as it might ping off somewhere. Put a bit of Vaseline or similar on the O ring of the leak off pipe before pushing back into injector so it doesn't pinch and then push the clip into place.
    • Ensure injector is snugged into place and torque 8mm bolts to 10nm.
    • Lower engine and reinstall bolts.
    • Move onto the LH. I find this side easier with more access room and there was no need to remove hard lines from any of the injectors.
    • Only needed to lift the engine to remove injector #8 at the back.
    • LH Engine mount, you can access the top bolt with a 1/2" extension, wobble and 18mm socket from the top.




    Will add more details as required...

    I guess the next question I have is how long will the valve covers themselves last, they have been known to crack/split.. So I may be doing this again.

  2. #2
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    Thanks Mick
    Much appreciated, great write -up

    I'll check things out when the covers are removed and see where I go from there ! Working the weekend so won't be to early next week !

    Laurie

  3. #3
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    Bloody hell, I’m glad I don’t have this oil leak. Great write up Mick. Fantastic when blokes like you, Laurie and Harlie join the L322 3.6 fold. 3.6L TDV8 Intake / Valve Cover Gasket
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  4. #4
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    Thanks Mick, This is such a great find for me! I am currently doing this right now. I have taken the passenger side fuel line shield off and degreased everything. The oil leak on the LHS appears to be coming from an injector, I was suspicious that maybe the Valve Cover (Should be called a Cam cover) might be cracked (apparently quiet common) but cannot confirm as any soapy water test doesn't show up anything.
    My next plan of attack is to take off the RHS Fuel line shield and degrease that and take for a test drive. This (I am hoping) will show without doubt that the problem lies with the gaskets alone.

    What then? order parts and fix it . Easy!.......

    I tried to buy a descent 1/4 drive socket set for this the other day but the one I wanted was not in stock but think it will be super handy for this. I ran with a 1/2 inch drive socket set for years but had to get a 3/8 drive set when I did the turbo.

    How much in the hole are you in it for? I assume only gaskets and washers? Did you use any sealant?

    cheers
    Gillie

  5. #5
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    I think it's still early days yet, but it seems that just replacing the gaskets has worked for me so far. Gaskets were ~$160 each locally, injector washers $60. So just shy of $400 in parts. I didn't apply any sealant. There was no sealant on from factory. Reused the hard injector lines, workshop manual says to replace.

    If you're in the doing the work and don't fancy having to revisit the leak off pipes again you should probably replace the O rings with new. Mine weren't leaking and I wasn't able to source any in the right size in the timeframe for me completing the job. So I still have the same O-rings in place. I have sourced some viton replacements that I'll keep on hand, 3.5x1.5 (ID x cross section in mm).

    It is a lot of effort to go to just to do the gaskets. So I think you have to be prepared for the possibility you will need new covers - if not now, then perhaps even some point in the future. Apparently smoke test is the preferred diagnostic check to see if your manifold is cracked. I was reasonably confident that wasn't the issue with mine so took a punt and didn't get that check done as I don't have the equipment.

    I priced new cam/intake manifolds (come with new gaskets) overseas and they were roughly $600 each, then add freight. Not sure what they cost locally.

    I picked up a Kincrome 1/4" set at Bunnings a while back. Couldn't do without it on this engine.
    FB_IMG_1597499603384.jpg

  6. #6
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    I have started this job and will do it over the course of however long it takes. I have no motivation and have plenty of other jobs backing up. With lockdown we can get away with one vehicle so it’s no big deal and I also have the 130 in the shed if we need so now I think about we have three cars, but the Range Rover is so nice to drive. So far I have taken the plenum chamber off and started on the right hand side being the harder of the two. I have got 1 and 2 injectors out and undone the engine mounts ready to be jacked up. I don’t have a crows foot spanner and I don’t think you could get on the engine mount rear bolt with just a uni. I sent the call out but no one I knew had one either. So I ended up making one from a 5/8 spanner. It worked a treat. Aiming to have the right hand bank finished this weekend.

  7. #7
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    The biggest issue I am finding with this job and working on this car is trying to see. I need a torch and glasses and then a lot of bolts you can only see through a narrow field of view. Would I prefer to fix the turbo or the leaking gaskets? Both are challenging jobs and I would prefer to take it somewhere and get them to fix it!! I’ll just keep plodding away.

  8. #8
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    If the intake is cracked , you should/would get a error message when the car is cold; due to a slight drop in intake manifold pressure. The funny thing is usually that if you stop turn off and lock the car it will restart and continue on quite merrily. The only thing I can think of is that as the engine heats up the nylon expands temporarily closing the crack if small enough. Many threads from the UK stating that when the Limp Mode comes on it's in the same place when leaving home, it's a intake manifold crack; and a smoke test usually confirms this.

    Laurie

  9. #9
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    Just a word of warning, some of the Express Mail items that I ordered a while back from the UK took 4 + weeks to due the holdup with Covid, I also had 1 parcel go missing ; though they eventually fully reimbursed me for item and the postage. It might pay to check if ordering if needed urgently.

    Laurie

  10. #10
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    RE: Ex UK airfreight

    Quote Originally Posted by Laurie View Post
    Just a word of warning, some of the Express Mail items that I ordered a while back from the UK took 4 + weeks to due the holdup with Covid, I also had 1 parcel go missing ; though they eventually fully reimbursed me for item and the postage. It might pay to check if ordering if needed urgently.

    Laurie
    Have been advised from UK sellers that DHL/Fed Ex are now all charging "priority" rates for all airfreight , effectively doubling cost of anything out of UK by air.
    Bit like charging 1st Class for parcels, like airlines are doing for humans. The "greed is good" school of business I expect.

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