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Thread: Someone who will actually do timing guides on M62??

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by SVX63 View Post
    How did you go NUTTR?
    Knock it over yourself or found a guy?

    I started up this morning with the telltale chain slap/knock from the front of the engine. 100kms after an oil change. hoping it is just the tensioner but if the guides gave way i'll be looking at a full timing chain job.

    186,000kms, major service 8000km ago.
    based in Brisbane
    I haven't done it yet! It's a waiting game now...

    I had a poll on one of the L322 Facebook groups and it was 50/50 for guide failures... Some had big miles (200,000 miles+) with no issues... So I'm going to wait for now. I've just done an oil change and a water pump swap... There is a lot of access once all the bits are out, but it looks like such a pain in the arse!

  2. #12
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    I did my chains and guides at 235,000 and they where still intact but very brittle. I did have a bit of a rattle for about half a second when starting from cold.

    So I would think do your chains and guides at the 230.000km mark or if you noticed a rattle.
    Last edited by p38arover; 10th June 2021 at 11:08 AM.
    04 L322 Vogue V8 - Work truck
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    Previous LRs = 78IIa series - 81, 93, 95 RRC - D2V8

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by FisherX View Post
    I did my chains and guides at 235,000 and they where still intact but very brittle. I did have a bit of a rattle for about half a second when starting from cold.

    So I would think do your chains and guides at the 230.000km mark or if you noticed a rattle.
    So far *touches lots of wood* zero rattle when cold, even at the moment at 7 deg it's silent...

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by NUTTTR View Post
    I haven't done it yet! It's a waiting game now...

    I had a poll on one of the L322 Facebook groups and it was 50/50 for guide failures... Some had big miles (200,000 miles+) with no issues... So I'm going to wait for now. I've just done an oil change and a water pump swap... There is a lot of access once all the bits are out, but it looks like such a pain in the arse!
    Update from my side: The mechanic has had the Rangie this whole time - lied to me every week that it'll be "done next week"
    Ordered the parts for him - because he was 'looking' at the diesel timing guides
    Lent the tool from FisherX - thank you! - because he was 'going to borrow them' from a mate... Ozwide
    Couldn't get the crankshaft bolt out - SO I HAD TO GO TO THE WORKSHOP TO DO IT

    ...I fear that when I get it back it may explode...

  5. #15
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    Just as an aside, coming from BMW world, if you change the tensioner (15min job ish) it saves the guides from being smashed. Obviously they can still break, but the root of the issue is that the tensioner flogs out and the chain slaps the guides which breaks them. Swap out the tensioner and it should be OK. Obviously no guarantees but many people have had success with it. I knew a guy with a 540 in Europe who's got 300,000miles on original guides just by changing tensioner.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by econti View Post
    Just as an aside, coming from BMW world, if you change the tensioner (15min job ish) it saves the guides from being smashed. Obviously they can still break, but the root of the issue is that the tensioner flogs out and the chain slaps the guides which breaks them. Swap out the tensioner and it should be OK. Obviously no guarantees but many people have had success with it. I knew a guy with a 540 in Europe who's got 300,000miles on original guides just by changing tensioner.
    This + regular oil changes.
    05 L322 Range Rover | BMW M62 4.4 | Cairns Blue
    07 Lexus GS450h | 2GR-FSE Hybrid | Blue Onyx Pearl

  7. #17
    p38arover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by econti View Post
    Just as an aside, coming from BMW world, if you change the tensioner (15min job ish) it saves the guides from being smashed.
    I hope to do my tensioner this weekend. The parts were ordered from BMW but they came from Land Rover in a Land Rover box.

    Tensioner part no. (supersession) 8910259
    Sealing ring 07119963355
    Ron B.
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    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  8. #18
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    I changed the tensioner today. 15 minutes my eye!

    Access to the tensioner is worse than on BMW cars (from videos Iíve watched). In the end, I removed the air box which wasnít that easy to do. It just wouldnít unclip.

    My ratchet handle even with a universal joint couldnít undo the tensioner. In the end, I borrowed a cranked Snap-On ratchet handle from a mechanic at KLR. That worked a treat with the space made by removing the air filter box.

    911A00F3-0DB4-4BB6-AC84-0589E1F0AA05.jpeg

    I used the suggestion made by Timm (Timm's BMW Repairs and Information YouTube channel), i.e., before commencing work, with engine running, pull the fuel pump fuse and run it dry. Then after changing the tensioner, crank the engine until the oil light goes out. This builds oil pressure and gets the tensioner working before start up.



    The engine sounded quieter on start but Iíll check after an overnight stop.

    Hint: when you get a new tensioner, DONíT press the end in. It will release the clip that locks it in the compressed position. Itís easier to fit that way. Ask me how I know.

    HowTo-> M60/M62 Timing chain tensioner replacement
    Last edited by p38arover; 12th June 2022 at 02:20 PM.
    Ron B.
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    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  9. #19
    p38arover's Avatar
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    The chain rattle on start has gone.

    One thing I forgot to mention was that after reinserting the fuel pump fuse and starting the car, I had a Trans Fail Safe Prog fault and a Air Suspension Inactive fault. I had to reset them with my GAP IID tool (which stays in the car).

    Also, with the airbox out, I could see a part of the wiring loom was jammed over the edges of welded panels and compressed there by the air box. I cut a piece of door pinch weld and put that on the metal edge and under the cable. I don't know what the wiring was for.

    0A8D1FE7-2CFC-4137-AA02-65DAF510017C.jpeg
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  10. #20
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    WOW
    that vid could be the answer to my camshaft problem, never thought of that, sounds good
    L322 vogue M62 RR 2005 4.4 petrol
    Any spelling mistakes are the fault of spellchecker
    Previous MG J2, CITROEN light 15 x 2 gone unfortunately
    Present MERC 180e, RANGE ROVER L322, JAGUAR XJS, MERC 280SE, MG F, JAGUAR S-Type

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