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Thread: L322-DT90-S and MPPT Solar

  1. #1
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    L322-DT90-S and MPPT Solar

    Hey all,

    I have the L322-DT90-S from Drivesafe, it's connected to a HVT-50D (60AH) AGM in the well on the right rear. Its not really cutting the mustard at the moment and my power requirements are growing when camping.

    I have just purchased a Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/20 and a Kings Solar blanket to tide me over w/ some charge while I'm parked up but I have a couple of questions generally about solar and the DT90.

    1. If I purchase a fixed panel and install on the roof, can I leave everything connected even when the engine is running and the DT90 is supplying charge (presumably the MPPT would be delivering charge also)?
    2. I've been thinking about lithium and a DCDC, if I was to go down this route, is it best to remove the DT90, or is there a way to wire this so I can have both (DT 90 keeping the main battery healthy + lithium there for camping setup). Preference is that the lithium will be in a battery box to unplug, remove and pop in the tent and charge via solar.

    Anyone got a sweet lithium setup they can share some stories? Or maybe if drive safe sees this he can comment on the lithiums and compatibility.

    Cheers!
    05 L322 Range Rover | BMW M62 4.4 | Cairns Blue
    07 Lexus GS450h | 2GR-FSE Hybrid | Blue Onyx Pearl

  2. #2
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    Hi irubix, first to the solar panel.

    As long as the solar panel has a solar regulator, you will be fine, and it can be adding additional charge as you drive.

    The panel can be connected to either battery and the DT90 will make sure both batteries are charged.

    With any SMART alternator equipped vehicle, and your L322 has a SMART alternator function, the only way to run a auxiliary lithium battery, is to charge it with a DC/DC device.

    This will work but you need to be aware that, first your will need a lithium battery of at least 100Ah to 120 Ah, depending on a battery’s operating specs, to have the same usable capacity of your existing setup.

    And a lithium battery setup would not maintain your cranking battery like a DT90 setup does.


    NOTE, you can NOT use a lithium cranking battery in any vehicle with a SMART alternator.


    Now you say your system is not “cutting the mustard at the moment".

    Is this because you are not doing much driving?

    If so, going to a lithium battery will make the problem 3 to 4x worse.

    The problem with a lithium setup is that you are limited in the amount of charge you can apply to the battery, and even if you use a 50 amp DC/DC charger, you will need to drive for at least 3 hours to get a 100Ah lithium from flat to over 95%.

    With a smaller DC/DC charger, you are now looking at 4 to 5 hours of driving.

    Your L322 alternator with a DT90 isolator, can replace 50 amperes of used battery capacity in the first 30 minutes of a drive.

    In either setup, if you are not doing much driving you still have the same problem.


    IMO adding the solar panel to your existing setup would be the least expensive and best solution.

  3. #3
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    60ah AGm battery is pretty small sized battery for a camping setup as you really only have about 30AH of usable power and your fridge will most likely pretty much drain that overnight on it's own.
    Maybe a larger capacity battery is what you are looking for in the first instance because a 60AH AGM battery doesn't give you much "Wriggle Room" power wise, Adding solar to the mix is a great idea as well.

    I have been running stand alone (No imput from the alternator) solar (300w) and 2x 115AH AGM's and I can run 2x fridges 40l freezer at -10C and a 80l fridge at 2C without any drama's.
    I do have a Redarc BMS fitted but I haven't had the need to connect it to the auxillary battery's so far, It just charges the second battery fitted to the 4WD to assist when winching.

    Try upsizing your 60AH battery capacity first up and see if that solves your problem
    You only get one shot at life, Aim well

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by trout1105 View Post
    60ah AGm battery is pretty small sized battery for a camping setup as you really only have about 30AH of usable power and your fridge will most likely pretty much drain that overnight on it's own
    Hi trout, irubix actually has about 100Ah available. 50Ah from the cranking battery and 50Ah from the auxiliary battery.

    This setup also means he looses no space as the 60Ah auxiliary battery is under the floor the cargo area.

    I am just waiting to hear back from irubix to see what the problem might be.

    NOTE, the auxiliary battery that irubix has can provide the full 60Ah if required.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi irubix, first to the solar panel.

    As long as the solar panel has a solar regulator, you will be fine, and it can be adding additional charge as you drive.

    The panel can be connected to either battery and the DT90 will make sure both batteries are charged.

    With any SMART alternator equipped vehicle, and your L322 has a SMART alternator function, the only way to run a auxiliary lithium battery, is to charge it with a DC/DC device.

    This will work but you need to be aware that, first your will need a lithium battery of at least 100Ah to 120 Ah, depending on a battery’s operating specs, to have the same usable capacity of your existing setup.

    And a lithium battery setup would not maintain your cranking battery like a DT90 setup does.


    NOTE, you can NOT use a lithium cranking battery in any vehicle with a SMART alternator.


    Now you say your system is not “cutting the mustard at the moment".

    Is this because you are not doing much driving?

    If so, going to a lithium battery will make the problem 3 to 4x worse.

    The problem with a lithium setup is that you are limited in the amount of charge you can apply to the battery, and even if you use a 50 amp DC/DC charger, you will need to drive for at least 3 hours to get a 100Ah lithium from flat to over 95%.

    With a smaller DC/DC charger, you are now looking at 4 to 5 hours of driving.

    Your L322 alternator with a DT90 isolator, can replace 50 amperes of used battery capacity in the first 30 minutes of a drive.

    In either setup, if you are not doing much driving you still have the same problem.


    IMO adding the solar panel to your existing setup would be the least expensive and best solution.
    Thanks for the info Drivesafe. Ill clarify some points here:

    1. The type of camping im doing is not pick up and move each day, more so being at site for 7 days. I have to run the car to recharge the battery.
    2. My preference would be to leave the DT90 connected, i understand the abilities of the system, being that it replaces AH quickly and 12v disconnect voltage allows starter to remain healthy + extra AH usage from that too
    3. The advantage of having a lithium system as well as the DT90 is that i can increase the amount of time i can be off grid, without worrying about charge. A recent trip to the Cape saw me having to start the vehicle and run it to charge after 2 nights, this is simply not enough (hence the solar and considering extension of the power capacity)
    4. The initial question about solar was more so about moving to a statically mounted panel, connected all the time and whether this would cause issues with alternator charging (kings solar blanket probably will die quickly!)
    5. I think my BMW era alternator is not a smart function, i believe its just standard charge profile
    6. One of the issues with camping for a week in an L322 is the fact that the car wakes up alot, every time you open the door it start to drain at 5-6amps, so imagine getting into the car to get things for 7 days and drawing down even more power. Functionally this is not great. Having an isolated battery means i wont be running in the 11v range after a week and trying to crank (happened the system disconnected at 12v and car definitely had slow crank when restarting).
    7. I dont want a lithium cranking battery!

    I think running a lithium in a battery box with a DCDC (30amp) charger to charge while in transit, then take the box out and have it at camp connected to solar its probably the route im going down. Probably just need to work out the best way to connect it along side DT90 so i dont cause any issues or have too much draw.

    I guess alternatively i could buy a bigger AGM and replace the HVT50, but shes a tight fit!

    PS i run 33's so i dont use the spare wheel space for anything! Spare goes on the roof rack!
    05 L322 Range Rover | BMW M62 4.4 | Cairns Blue
    07 Lexus GS450h | 2GR-FSE Hybrid | Blue Onyx Pearl

  6. #6
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    Hi again irubix, this is a suggestion only.

    You could get a couple of smaller lithium batteries and mount them in the spare wheel well and fit the DC/DC charger there as well.

    The pickup for the DC/DC charger's positive could be the same place the DT90 connects to the fuse panel.

    You can also pick up an IGNITION circuit in that fuse panel, to operate the DC/DC device.

    If the solar panel is to be permanently mounted, then connect the solar regulators positive to the same point.

    None of this will effect the L322s operations.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    Hi again irubix, this is a suggestion only.

    You could get a couple of smaller lithium batteries and mount them in the spare wheel well and fit the DC/DC charger there as well.

    The pickup for the DC/DC charger's positive could be the same place the DT90 connects to the fuse panel.

    You can also pick up an IGNITION circuit in that fuse panel, to operate the DC/DC device.

    If the solar panel is to be permanently mounted, then connect the solar regulators positive to the same point.

    None of this will effect the L322s operations.
    Thanks Drivesafe, so basically connect everything to the main 100amp termination point in the back, and not connect to the battery at all? I currently have the solar reg connected directly to the HVT.

    I guess i should use the common ground point and not directly to the battery too?
    05 L322 Range Rover | BMW M62 4.4 | Cairns Blue
    07 Lexus GS450h | 2GR-FSE Hybrid | Blue Onyx Pearl

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by irubix View Post
    I currently have the solar reg connected directly to the HVT.

    I guess i should use the common ground point and not directly to the battery too?
    The solar connection is fine as the DT90 will make sure both the auxiliary and cranking batteries are evenly charged.

    The earth point for the DC/DC device should be earthed to the common ground point where the auxiliary battery is earthed.

    This will keep voltage drop to the DC/DC device to a minimum and help to get maximum charge current to the lithium battery.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    The solar connection is fine as the DT90 will make sure both the auxiliary and cranking batteries are evenly charged.

    The earth point for the DC/DC device should be earthed to the common ground point where the auxiliary battery is earthed.

    This will keep voltage drop to the DC/DC device to a minimum and help to get maximum charge current to the lithium battery.
    Gotcha, thanks for clarifying
    05 L322 Range Rover | BMW M62 4.4 | Cairns Blue
    07 Lexus GS450h | 2GR-FSE Hybrid | Blue Onyx Pearl

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