Thread: 2010 Range Rover TDV8 Luxury - Parasitic Draw

The short discharge and recharge times suggests to me something other than parsitic draw is the issue, perhaps a poor battery terminal connection if the battery itself has been properly load tested OK, not just voltage checked.
Also check the fuse panel behind the battery for corroded connections.

Originally Posted by Graeme

The short discharge and recharge times suggests to me something other than parsitic draw is the issue, perhaps a poor battery terminal connection if the battery itself has been properly load tested OK, not just voltage checked.
Also check the fuse panel behind the battery for corroded connections.

Thanks, it all looks very clean and dry under there, as does the fuse connections. I did have the battery load tested also, but was fine. Note that it doesn't drain when locked (probably would over a couple of days but haven't tested that yet).

The BT module has been found to be the cuplrit a few times.

So, I have completed some tests, including every fuse (circuit) when it's shut down the display screens. entertainment, HVEC etc. and couldn't find anything drawing power over a few milliamps (that was the air suspension circuit).

Tested the draw when still going through the shut down process but off, and it was 14A. I also tested the draw when dormant (not locked as couldn't find the bonnet switch to isolate that and lock it), and it was pulling 2A from somewhere. The R1 relay was hot (I think that's the glovebox from the diagram) so I'll test that switch and see whether the lamp is still on when shut and locked (with phone on video).

I also started and stopped the car repeatedly to see how many it would do, and I got 10 starts before it gave up, from a fully charged state.

This morning, did a load test and got only 600CCA from the 850CCA battery and stating it should be replaced. Varying opinions of "you should always lock these as they draw a lot of power otherwise" etc.

So, I'm leaning towards a faulty cell in the Century battery (which only had 18 months warranty) and replacing that with something else. Thoughts? And battery brands (Bosch, Varta, Odyssey, Supercharge, Lion)?

Leaving the vehicle unlocked will take more time to shut-down but otherwise no more current draw, unless of course a door is opened and closed at this restarts the longer shut-down time. Mine's battery stays good for at least several days unlocked even with quite a few door openings.

I've had reasonable success with the Varta stop-start in both my previous D4 and my L322, including surviving being totally discharged when the alternator short-circuited about 6 months ago.