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Thanks Pat, it is one of my weekend jobs - Looks like a stright forward job - everything I have seen and done on these so far looks fairly straight forward... apart from getting the sump off... that is something else... Hopefully I won't be doing that any time soon...:p
I am getting around to mine this weekend also before going to the Land Rover weekend at Melrose for easter.
Is there any special brand or type of lube to put on the caliper slides? Or just the generic stuff in little satchels?
Well, started out doing the front brakes - did the RHS - easy, now to the LHS... I can't budge the old disk! It is stuck fast. Anyone else had this problem and if so, how did you shift it? There doesn't seem to be anything it can 'stick' to. There seems to be a small clearance around the wheel studs, and apart from that - and the retaining screw - yes I have removed that... I can't work out what would cause it to get stuck...!?
There is a little bit of surface rust behind the retaining screw, and I have given everything a squirt of WD-40 and smote the crap out of the disk, but to no avail - I can't even put it back together again now with the old disk, as I've been smacking it with a hammer...
Any thoughts????
***EDIT - got the bastard! had a break then got a bigger hammer out!!! - the build up of brake dust had jambed it t the hub***
Cheers - Gav
So, now all done. Apart from the disk that didn't want to part company with the hub, all went well and generally easier than doing the brakes on a Dunny Door. While I was at it, I changed all the brake fluid and adjusted the handbrake. So, all up for 2 x disks, 1 set of pads, 1 x wear sensor, 1 litre of brake fluid and a can of Brakekleen - $356.00. This includes delivery of all the big bits from the UK - delivered to my doorstep in 4 days from order. Am I happy with that - bloody oath:).
Took 2 hours all up - including a frustrating 30 minutes getting the stuck disk off. By the way, I was quoted the following supplied in Aus (Not from a dealer - that was even more) - Disks - $235 each, pads - $122 set, wear sensor - $64. All up if I bought locally it would have been $686.00 (including brake fluid and brakekleen), so a saving of $330.00. I've just bought a slab with the some of the change and am knocking back a cold one right now.:)
Cheers - Gav
And mechanic's won't touch them as they are a nightmare to work on!!!!. Pat
Yeah, they will lead people to believe they are hard to work on so they can charge you extra $$$, and the Toorak tractor Latte sipping set would only too happily hand over thier dollars...Quote:
Originally Posted by PAT303
PS - I'm not a latte hater, so don't go there...:p
whats the secret to the 16mm bolts holding the caliper on? I snapped a good spanner, then broke two sockets trying to get them loose, end result, two hours down, busted tools, and no parts replaced.
1x unknown brand "drop forged" spanner, 1x sidchrome 16mm socket 1x impact wrech 16mm socket.
I cant quite fit my rattle gun in there either.
And after breaking the spanner (with an extenstion bar on it), I put lots of penetrating oil on it and let it sit for 4 hours before trying sockets on a breaker bar.
:(
I used a 16mm impact socket - was going to use the rattle gun, but couldn't get it in there. Put the socket on a 2' breaker bar and grunted - they came off no dramas. RAVE says they should be tensioned back to 81 ft/lb, so they shouldn't be that tight...Quote:
Originally Posted by jsp
At a pinch, I could have got the bottom caliper bolt with the rattle gun if I frigged about a bit.
Hope you get them - I know how frustrated I was yesterday when I couldn't get the disk off...