D5 Jack

I am interested in this as well as I would rather use abottle jack than standard one.
The jacking point is completely different to D3/4, it consistsof a lug (suspect made of steel) parallel to the body which is about 100 mmlong, 25 mm high, with a maximum thickness of 15 mm with a slight taper androunded bottom with a 10 mm slot in the middle.
The top of the jack is about 55 mm square with asemi-circular channel in the middle which is about 20 mm wide and about 5 mm ora bit deeper. The lug sits in this channel when jacking the car.
One thing is any adapter should ensure it doesn’t putsidewise force on the lug as it could damage the body.
I did a bit of a test and to lift the rear wheel about 6 mmoff the ground had to lift from 350 mm to 470 mm that you would means a bottlejack would have to have a 120 mm hydraulic lift and maximum height close to 470mm, and in the past, I have found it’s hard to find a jack with those specs,maybe others know where ones are available.
At home I have a 2500 kg trolley jack and like with the D3it should just has enough lift to get the back wheel off the ground and shouldbe able use jacking points.
I think an adapter could be made, but it’s getting the jackmaybe the problem.

Hi Guys,
picture of the D5 Jack - it has a grove in the top instead of a locating knob.Attachment 140836

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Originally Posted by GP1200

Hi Guys,
picture of the D5 Jack - it has a grove in the top instead of a locating knob.Attachment 140836

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Hmmm
$100,000+ car with a $2 jack, Impressive [bigwhistle]

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Originally Posted by trout1105

Hmmm
$100,000+ car with a $2 jack, Impressive [bigwhistle]

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Umm,i bet a $200,000 RR also has the same jack[bigsad]

Oh,and $100,000 doesn't get you much of a D5.

I still have the original jack in my D2a and it is a good solid hydraulic bottle jack with the top of it fitting perfectly under the axels Not a cheap and nasty scissor jack that will tend to fall over easily and are absolute bastards to use.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by trout1105

I still have the original jack in my D2a and it is a good solid hydraulic bottle jack with the top of it fitting perfectly under the axels Not a cheap and nasty scissor jack that will tend to fall over easily and are absolute bastards to use.

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Actually,a Holden bottle jack from a HQ would be better,if it had the reach....

Nothing wrong with a Defender jack either,but it probably wouldn't fit.

I would imagine that the majority of people that are buying the new D5's wouldn't know how to change a tyre anyway So the jack itself isn't that critical[bigwhistle]

Looks like I will need a new bottle-jack adaptor.

Ron

To be honest, only had to use the D4 jack ( nearly the same as the D5 jack ) once at the bottom of the Yeagarup Dunes a few years ago - but changed all the tyres on a mates Jeep when it decided to go into limp mode and roll its tyres off the rims when it wasn’t having a hissy fit.... ( a very very long story... )

The factory Jeep jack broke on the first change and the $2-00 Land Rover jack did its thing.

if anyone knows The Widowmaker dune in Yeagarup, it’s not the sort of place to be changing all the tyres on a vehicle that is stuck.

Yes we used common sense and had wood blocks and did it safely, and yes a nice trolly jack would have been nice, but the beers that night tasted a little better knowing that we recovered
the vehicle using a $2.00 Land Rover jack and a bit of grunt work....

so so lay off the jack....
( no pun intended )
Jack

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rovingwill

I am interested in this as well as I would rather use abottle jack than standard one.
The jacking point is completely different to D3/4, it consistsof a lug (suspect made of steel) parallel to the body which is about 100 mmlong, 25 mm high, with a maximum thickness of 15 mm with a slight taper androunded bottom with a 10 mm slot in the middle.
The top of the jack is about 55 mm square with asemi-circular channel in the middle which is about 20 mm wide and about 5 mm ora bit deeper. The lug sits in this channel when jacking the car.
One thing is any adapter should ensure it doesn’t putsidewise force on the lug as it could damage the body.
I did a bit of a test and to lift the rear wheel about 6 mmoff the ground had to lift from 350 mm to 470 mm that you would means a bottlejack would have to have a 120 mm hydraulic lift and maximum height close to 470mm, and in the past, I have found it’s hard to find a jack with those specs,maybe others know where ones are available.
At home I have a 2500 kg trolley jack and like with the D3it should just has enough lift to get the back wheel off the ground and shouldbe able use jacking points.
I think an adapter could be made, but it’s getting the jackmaybe the problem.

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Thanks for the detailed description.....I was going to get and adaptor made up but maybe it isn’t as straight forward as the D3/4